Janson

Figured I could redo the bianchi ilions, as it looks horrible on the site..

Long frames = UCI... Short frames = BIU, street etc etc. You don't need a long frame for UCI though.But it helps. You can ride street on a UCI frame. You can ride whatever you want with whatever frame you want :- Resources: The search function

Depends on the bolt spacing mate :D My kinesis forks were the skinniest.. Would never be able to fit a dx32 in there..

Running a Ritchey rock comp now.. It's OK... I see a fair few American/Canadian riders using front DX32 with big holes in them.. Would be cool try try out, but only for front disc (can be hard to set the brake up with a wiiiide rim).

Magura says that you never need to rebleed your mags. I'd give the whole system a good clean once or maybe twice a year. I'm on v-brakes now though, so I don't have that problem :-

ABOUT yes, but not exactly :- 3" is 7.62cm.

that's not a question :- Oi tart, when are we going to see the grinding video?

Blu|shark's urban assult vault... This guy on trials-online forum has listed loads of frames' geometry.. Have a look

Vertical tyres are around the 600g mark actually, which is well light. But the weight must be cut down somewhere.. The tyres are pretty wobbly, and not the grippest when it's wet. They're big and round too, so I reckon they'd fold pretty easily on a thin front rim, as mine folded on a BMF (at 38mm).. It's OK for the dry, but I'd use something else when it's wet.

This b*****d took a fair while to make. Thanks for the front wheel recolouring Echotron!

Here ye go timmy, and I was so kind I even sanded down and painted the headtube weld :- Gray for now. Other colors are on the way :D

Was that your KOXX rim Ad? How's the grind working out? Martin t hasn't got a ground rim at all. Well, he's got my old BMF at his house, and that rim is ground :-

HOT-S update. The bugger has a large hole in it. The sidewall that is. It was OK, nothing special though. Looked too damn good though. I'm back on the good ol' worn Comp24 now.. it's a little bit too narrow, but ill get used to it soon-ish. Next up is the Comp24 2.5" tyre. Har har :-

Sorry, but lol. Let's start with the pros and cons with tar: Pros: Cheap, good lockage, easy to apply and get Cons: Modulation=nothing, can make the pads stick=bad, also can rip pads off the backing, doesnt work in the wet (slightest moist and its ruined. And pros and cons with grind: Pros: pretty straightforward, lasts for months, works amazingly well in the wet, looks kinda funky, nothing to put on the rims all the time, pretty OK modulation (light grind), and great lockage. Also, mine's pretty silent. Cons: Might ruin your rim, weakens the sidewalls, need technique and an angle grinder (or file or hacksaw). Go grind!

Adobe Photoshop. Found at your local software dealer. It's very expensive. (I got it off Kazaa.)

Rear: Continental Vertical - Light and good for DRY COMPS, not ideal for street or sharp rocks, or anything wet Michelin comp24 - GRIPPY as hell for anything. Fat sidewalls, great for natural and street, any weather Michelin Hot-S 2.5" - My new tyre. Grips amazingly well, good springy feel, RED, and lighter than the comp24. Needs to be tested in the wet before it gets my :- Front: Panaracer Fire XC Pro 2.1" - Great grip for everything but wet off-camber rocks. Look sweet, nice tread pattern and doesn't cost too much.

It's not the cylinder, it's the O-rings that suck..

A few months ago I wanted to know what an RB looked like on the inside. Couldnt find any pictures though... Now I have one, and the seals popped. So for all of you I made this pic, explaining how one looks on the inside: 1. Body. Holds the bugger together. 2. Lever blade. 3. Golden looking things, these sit on the lever blade, on the upper hole (where the lever connects to the body). 4. Bolts that hold the lever together. 5. Piston thing. This pushes the oil. 6. Spring. This pushes the piston out when pushed in. 7. Cylinder. The spring goes into this, followed by the piston (in the way shown) 8. "TPA" thing, adjusts pad wear and bite point. 9. Rubber O-ring. You may think that it is a spare seal, but no, it's the wrong size. Sits on the "TPA" to aid grip when turned. 10. Little gold thingy, sits on the lever blade and holds the "TPA" together with the blade. And here's the lever fitted on my bike. Too bad my bars snapped, grips ripped and RB started leaking then :-

which I have to do... My TPA is gone. The little bronze thingy is still there though.. Can I bodge it without getting a new red twiddly bit? It's hard to adjust it as it's now :D Oh yeah, I'm back on the normal lever. The RB leaks Now. Bollox. :-

a bit off topic, but hey.. adam: how are the brake boosters you designed going? any news on design? you were going to see if forge could make them, correct? and now they cant 'cos they're not around anymore... RB's are bollox :-

Rb boosters have a good rep... If you use evolution adapters you can just get a random v-brake booster... Longer bolts can be found at hardware stores... Get something made out of 12/9 steel.. they are black. 12/9 means they are a bit stronger than "normal" bolts... Or go crazy and get Ti bolts :-

they work for lots of people. Not for me.. Buggary.. not very powerful and flexy. Just bleed it and booster it up properly and you Should be fine. Remember, you can always sell it if you dont like it :-

for DMR frames.

try your LBS.. they get bikes all the time so they should have a few over for you.

hub though? :-