nohpee°

perspective all tits up:( (pictures not taken at same angle(-shame on you ad)) still looks quite funny though

joe you might wanna not change the colour of the stickers. oh and which way do you change colours I know theres loads of ways but it seems to be your favourite. im a hue/saturation kinda guy :- ally

9im red/green colour blind, does that not have a hint of colour in the frame?)trials_rocks: tim:

I have pm'ed you it ad.

just got back from work :- (apologies in advance) phil: ally

ok not sure if this is the right place for this to go :"> but post pics of what ever you need doing and there are a few people that will be able/give it a very good go at photoshopping it. give a decent quality pic and a nice description and you will get better results. ally

down here I don't even pay for trains, I have been travelling by train for 2 weeks half an hour each way and haven't payed a penny. its because the conductor person can't remember who comes on at what stop and doesn't have enough time to check everyone so asks for tickets but I don;t say anything. bingo. on the way back from plymouth I don't pay either. remember, always act like you have never been on a train in your life to the ticket man. ally

neater than mine but not neater than mine :- my plaz pads fit eactky in the black backing and as the plaz pads curved it sits exactly in the butchered black one. however I have copious amounts of glue all over my pads which goes a powdery white colour which looks poo. ally

mine is a 521/es4 brake bodge. with my plaz pads it was touching but not with enough force so I made some pads so I could have the adjustment space. I haven't got any pics yet cos im lazy so you will have to make sense of some pants diagrams: dunno why I wrote slave trough :- meh pics later if you're good ally

how its done: I don't use nitro mors cos if u leave it too long it can leave a black residue which you then have to strip with the mors :- its harsh. I use paint/varnsih remover fomr halfords its in a cheap and nasty tin, but you can leave it on for ages and then peel it off. it may need upto 3 applications to get its all off(sometimes you are left with stuborn bits) To get the paint off whilst its bubbling I use a wire brush which aswell as removing the paint, buffs up the forks/frame. When its all off clean with hot soapy water. Then I used quite a hard grade sandpaper(nothing too savage, still quite soft) Then use really really fine sandpaper to shine her up. Apply Braso untill it goes black then scrub like hell and its should come up real nice and shiny I did mine bloody ages ago:

some other lubes contain teflon which will make for sticky returns i think gt85 does and tf2 just not good ally

1. Loosen the clamp bolt on the lever and tip the lever up so it's parallel to the floor. 2. Attach the clear plastic line and barbed fitting to the syringe and attach the barbed fitting to the other line. (barbed at one end, screw-in fittings are supplied in the Bleed Kit). 3. Fill the syringe with fluid (suck it out of the bottle) and then push out as much air as you can (syringe tip pointing upwards, curve the pipe down into the bottle). Big Tip - have the bottle held securely so you don't knock it over when wagging the pipe around. I clamp it between my knees or in the vice. 4. Remove the bleed screw from the slave (wheel) cylinder and attach the syringe (with clear pipe and screw-in fitting), keep the syringe pointed down (plunger up) so if there is any air in it, it won't go into your system. Note: successful bleeding relies heavily on the vacuum principle. It’s like the "finger over the end of the straw" trick. Fluid won’t drain out of the straw until you take your finger off the end. It’s the same with hydraulic brakes – open the lower end only and no fluid drains out. If you bleed them the reverse way (syringe at the lever end) the fluid would tend to drain out of the system when you're messing around connecting, introducing air bubbles which will have to be removed. 5. Remove the bleed screw from the lever and attach the vent tube. Make sure you don't squeeze the lever before you have the syringe and vent tube attached or you'll squirt fluid everywhere. Please don't squeeze the lever anyways as there is no point to doing this. *Get a catch container to catch the fluid coming out of the lever. Place the end of the drain hose in it. You can tape the bottle somewhere or have a helper hold it. I have a small bottle with a thin wire wrapped around its neck and I hang it from my shift cables. 6. Squeeze the syringe slowly, pushing its full contents through the system. Stop before you get to any air that's inside the syringe. 7. Once syringe is empty, remove the vent tube (at the brake lever) and re-install the bleed screw. This step is very important – this is the "finger over the straw" move. It will keep the fluid in the system when the next step is performed. 8. Remove the syringe screw-in fitting and re-install the bleed screw on the slave. ****all text from magura cult page**** ally

i just had some speedy service from Chain rection. but it were shoodyly packedmy new tyre was the packaging for my rims :- so it was covered in tape and took me ages to get it all off and all the mailing info was stuck to it and in the knobbles. apart from that, great ally