Anders Kolpen

Hello in the group I've seen some of the fantastic 'raw' work people do here on TF to de-anodize parts and frames I have a anodized frame that I want to raw. I've de-anodized a couple of small parts in small containers with luck, but a not a whole frame. Would you mind sharing some tips for a good result on large items? Like, does the frame have to be fully submerged in the bath or can I like, do half'n half without any transition in the final finish in a smaller container? What ratio/concentration did you find works best for caustic soda/water? And also would you recommend hot water? And also, would actually suggest oven cleaner instead of caustic soda solution? Thank you very much for any help on this one! Greetings from Denmark Anders Kolpen

This is an Acros headset (only bottom). There are quite a few out there. The standard is called EC49 👍 Thank you very much. Actually the chain is as short as possible. The 'slack' is just from pushing the wheel forward from the snail cams' position 🤯 😁

Custom chain tensioner for the Jitsie Varial Race 26" I made this tensioner to avoid chain slap as the chain would either be too tight or too loose with the snail cams. Also I can push the rear wheel forward to give me super short chain stays at consistent 374mm (stock is 380mm advertised - that grows with chain wear) I mounted the Clean forks with an adapter to go from 1 1/4 to 1.5 headset. The change would change the wheelbase to a longer bike, but measured wheelbase with this new tensioner is just 1081mm (stock is 1085 advertised). The tensioner mounts to the frame and stays in position even when the wheel is off. Tension is easily taken care of without the chain mounted and then the chain is wrapped on to the jockey wheel afterwards.