Chakers1998

Hi Ali, I'm using a KMC Z1eHX chain which has a few hours on it now. The bike also has a few hours on it now and I've stopped having to adjust my headset, brakes etc. I do weigh a fair bit, which has the advantage of breaking in chains quite quickly, but it's certainly making the chain loosening worse.

Hello all, I've recently built a 26 comp bike that uses horizontal dropouts, and I'm having to constantly undo my wheel bolts to add more tension to the chain with the snail cams I've got. The cams are the steel Trialtech ones with lots of fine points. I'm not sure what is causing my chain to need constant adjustment after 15 mins of hopping around on the back wheel, but I sanded the dropouts and bought some more grippy Tarty axle bolt washers (the Jitsie race ones are horrid and have no grip at all) to see if that would eliminate it, which it hasn't. The wheel also isn't coming out of side to side 'true' with the rim brakes that I notice it, nor is it moving noticeably enough that the pads are coming out of alignment. I also can't see it being the chain bedding in, there's no way a chain would stretch that much to need constant tensioning. Should I file bigger notches in the drive snail cam to have more positive and secure clicks that do not have the possibility of winding back off? The Trialtech steel cams are very very finely cut with 108 clicks, compared to other brands who use around half that number. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

As someone who has only been in trials for a little more than a year, I really don't get the whole looking down at street riders thing. I had been told that comp riders looked down on street riders, but I didn't believe it myself until I went to a recent comp and then heard the scoffs from the comp riders when I was riding my Inspired around after the comp had finished. Plus, I've just built a comp bike up to start doing more natural trials and seeing how difficult it is, I have huge respect for the comp riders. I suspect the fact that street riding is more appealing to wider audiences than comp trials has a part to play in any jealousy/resentment that comp riders who put the time in don't get the same level of success or exposure.

I would personally have the Tech 3 Trial Zone on the back and front with Jitsie pads + 160mm discs. You don't really need the 4 pots on a mod, as the torque from the wheels is considerably less than a stock. I've never used the Trial Zone/Race lever, but I'm not a fan of the reach and bite adjust not being independent. Plus, I've heard they are not as good as the Tech 3's.

I'm liking where this is going!

I have joined the club, only its second ride.

@Mike Beck There is a Swindon ride next Sunday with the guys from FXN, if you are interested?

I've only used freeriders for trials (street) and they are great with Hope f20's. Grippy, but I've always been able to get my foot down when needed. I've read that Primeblues either break after a few rides, or feel horrible compared to "normal" ones. Chakers

Jitsie pads have a considerable increase in power over the standard Hope pads made by Galfer. I'm also wondering why you don't use the hope trials rotor in 160 instead of the Jitsie.

Thank you, hope the shoulder gets better soon!

Hey @Ali C Do you foresee any issues using the 24" Light Bicycle Recon rim with a Conti Macaskill tyre? Tarty says that this tyre isn't sold as a tubeless tyre, and I'm worried that with the hookless design of the LB rim, it could be incompatible. Chakers

Fitted a Rimpact to a V2 rim with a Conti Macaskill tyre today. Was an absolute PITA. I've never gotten the tyre bead to sit equally around the rim, but it still seals and holds pressure well with the insert in. I'd like to try the updated V2 rim which Tarty say is officially tubeless compatible.

It's a Messenger chat where admins have to approve the new users, but because it's not publicly visible it's dependant on people already in the group to add others.

Been on a few work do's there in Jericho/Gloucester Green area but nothing that stands out to me, unless you'd be willing to venture into the Uni's. Didn't help that it was at night but in general I've never considered oxford to be a great place for street, too busy, too tightly packed. Swindon, however, has a good number of spots in the town center, plus there is a group on Facebook that organise rides on the weekends.

I bought some new pistons and seals for the front, and OMFG this brake is insane! super grabby and super powerful, to the point that the rear feels weak by comparison now. Feel a bit silly for ordering 200mm rotors now, but hey ho they will get used regardless.

The E4's on my MTB have never had this issue when I've had to pump the pistons out to clean them.

@DJEHB Definitely something wrong with the front brake. I turned the bike upside down to look at how the pistons were being pushed out and retracting, and found that I couldn't push the pistons out past where they already were. I could pull the lever to the bar and it would barely move out and when I put the wheel back in the fork, the lever still pulled to the bar. This has happened twice now; first time I chalked it up to being set up poorly, but I recently bled it and the lever feel was nice and firm until I pumped the brake when the bike was upside down. There is also this weird squelch like sound coming from the lever when I pull the brake now. Have I got busted seals in the master cylinder?

Thanks for the info, Daan.

I weigh 113kg... Quite a bit of weight to stop.

Hey guys, first post! I recently dropped on a 2019 Fourplay Team at a price that I simply couldn't pass on, sold my Flow that had MT7's to make space for the Fourplay and would like to know what the people who are running the Hope Trial Zones do to eek out all the performance? I bought some Jitsie pads from Tartybikes, and the rear brake is noticeably more grabby than before. The front is noticeably less grabby than the rear, and cleaning the discs with Fairy and boiling water plus boiling the pads on the hob in a pan helped to a degree. I think there is a slight bend in the disc as it rubs intermittently, could this cause a less "grabby" brake feel? Would also like to know what people who run the Hope v2 rotors at 200mm or 203mm think of the difference between those sizes and 180mm, and whether they are worth it? Chakers