Rip

Cheers buddy, I already have a load of Gorilla tape so that's perfect.

So, what rim tape do you use?

Thanks for the detailed info buddy, looks like I might actually try tubeless then now that I'm armed with some decent info :-)

I'll bump the tyres up to 30 psi when I next go out and see how that feels.

Just the standard Inspired V2 Team rims and I don't have any plans on changing them.

Thanks, I'm maybe going to settle on 30-35psi once that's starts feeling better for me so not sure what to do then. I haven't had any trouble so far at 25psi even landing back wheel on to sharp brick corners, but maybe I've just been lucky, or more than likely I'm just not doing massive gaps to back wheel.

I've recently started riding a Fourplay Team (Continental MacAskill tyres and Kenda tubes) and have been lucky enough to not get a snake bite puncture yet, I'm running a pretty low tyre pressure at the minute (25 psi) as that's what feels natural for me, I'm hoping to slowly raise that to around 35-40psi but for now I'm wondering if a tyre insert that's designed for tubes would help? Tannus tyre insert: Not sure I want all the faff of a tubeless setup because if you get a puncture mid ride just about all you can do is shove a tube in there so you'll still need to carry a tube anyway and clean up all the mess.

Well this is my solution for now, the patent pending 'Lever Saver' I also loosened the bar clamps a little so the the levers should move with a hard impact hopefully eliminating any danger of the new mod actually stressing the levers in a way they aren't designed to be stressed. As you can see, the ground, simulated here by the steel rule, cannot touch the area around the bleed screw cap (as long as the ground is relatively flat). I'm sure it will be tested in the very near future

Good point about loosening the clamps, I should have thought of that because I used to do that on my Moto trials bikes.

I think the actual thread on the bleed port is OK and that it's just the head of the screw that's been ruined, I've ordered some replacement screws so we'll see.

Actually I'm going to see if I can come up with a way of protecting the lever, especially the bleed screw area in the event of a crash before I think about changing levers altogether. I'll report back once I have something.

I have my levers at this angle: Are the MT5 levers made of the same weird plastic material? Would they work with the MT7 calipers? And would they offer 1-finger braking?

OK well I may have answered my own question here, apparently it is a BAT-Plug-Kit so going by that name it's possibly purely just a blanking plug, albeit an elaborate one. https://r2-bike.com/MAGURA-BAT-plug-Kit-for-MT6-MT7-MT8-MT-TRAIL-SL-from-MY2015 Furthermore it is actually supplied when you buy a HC3 lever so does indeed seem like just a blanking plug for when running HC3 levers: https://www.tartybikes.co.uk/brake_lever_blades/magura_hc3_lever_blade/c53p13376.html Trials riders must have to replace these levers an awful lot considering how much damage is done when they touch something abrasive, maybe I need to make some kind of a cover for them lol One slow over the bars crash and I almost wore completely through the plastic bleed screw on one of the levers! Luckily my T25 still bites into the plastic so I can replace it easily enough, if that crash was any harder though I'd have started leaking brake fluid everywhere. Whatever happened to good old fashioned aluminum levers?!

I managed to go over the bars yesterday doing a slow 180° pivot and dropped the bike, apparently Magura MT7 levers are very weak to any abrasion, see the extensive damage in the photo below, one more 'over the bars' on tarmac or concrete and my levers will be completely worn away lol. Anyway, one of these broke and fell out, at first I wondered what it was and I'm actually still not entirely sure to be honest: A quick Google came up with this, which is a BAT Adjuster Kit for adjusting the bite point, but as you can see, mine looks very different and doesn't actually look like it can be adjusted, this one looks to have a cam profile on it, but mine does not: So is my one just a blanking plug because I have HC3 levers or something, I can adjust my bite point by actually adjusting the pivot on the lever blade anyway? I've looked down in the hole where it came from and can't see how on earth it would actually adjust something even if it did have an adjuster knob on the top, in fact mine only sits down flush when its oriented the right way because of the 'flat' on the diameter so you couldn't adjust it anyway. If that's all it is then there is no point me even replacing it.

Haha maybe, I haven't ridden for like 20 years so I figured I could hide in a large crowd lol

Nice! Is this a semi regular thing in Bristol? I live just 30 mins away.

Perfect! Added to OP.

I'll add a bit about pushing the pistons back.

Haha, I'm a CNC machinist by trade so I kind of have that precise approach ingrained into me.

Thanks :-)

With 4 piston brake calipers you want to make sure the actual caliper body is centered over the rotor rather than the brake pads and simply loosening the caliper bolts, pulling the brake lever on and tightening the bolts again doesn't do the job well enough. This may be common knowledge already or more than likely there is a better way but I came up with this and it's worked perfectly for me so far. By all means if you know of a better/easier way then please post it below. This was done on my Inspired Fourplay with Magura MT7 calipers but the same logic could be applied to other makes and models. Step 1 Remove the wheel, remove the brake pads (important), gently push back all of the pistons all the way back (important) with something like a plastic tyre lever and measure the gap in your caliper body, mine is 3.50mm Step 2 Measure the thickness of the rotor, mine is 2.00mm Step 3 Take the size of your caliper gap (3.50mm) and subtract the thickness of your rotor (2.00mm) = 1.50mm. Then divide that by 2, which is 0.75mm (remember this number) Step 4 Put your wheel back in but without the brake pads Step 5 Find a clean piece of paper and measure it, mine is 0.10mm Cut, stack and fold your paper so it is as close to your number from Step 3 as possible, mine worked out at about 0.72mm, do this twice so you have 2 stacks (only 1 stack is pictured below) Step 7 Remove your brake caliper, trim your paper as required and fold the stacks over your rotor Step 8 Carefully lower your caliper over the paper and on to your rotor Step 9 Slowly and gradually tighten your caliper bolts Step 10 Remove your wheel and put your brake pads back in Proof that this method works, a few tugs on the brake lever and the wheel spins freely with no pad rubbing, yes I accidentally filmed myself pumping the front brake lever then spinning the rear wheel because I'm an idiot lol so until I re-film the clip you'll have to trust me that both my wheels spin freely now after using this method. And no my bike isn't pink.

I'll let you know what the 9.P pads are like in a few days when they've arrived and been bedded in. I can only imagine what Jitsie pads with 203mm rotors feels like!

If I decide I need a little more bite in the rear then I'll give a set of those a go.

Thanks, I'll definitely keep those in mind but first I want to try the standard 9.P pads as a kind of baseline.

They are the single pad version (MT5 style) yeah? Same compound as MT7 8.p?