Karlos28

Again cheers for the reply fella! Well.... I did as you said, back to basics... Stripped it down, checked it all out (forgot to look at BB size!).. all fine, put it back together with the onza hog (wider) rear wheel + creepy crawler this time.. worked absolutely fine. Chain line is good, tyre is central and clear.... However the rim is too wide for the hs33 to work!! So, chucked the creepy crawler on the other rear wheel, all works like a dream!? God only knows that I was doing wrong..... I tried it several times, on the two rims! Thanks again for the tips and advice!!

I had exactly the same issue when I had the freewheel on the rear hub... With the tensile cranks. Correct the tensiles are ISIS, onza square taper. The cranks are tightened down fully, the freewheel is very close to the frame/BB shell, but it's not contacting. I will take the BB out and confirm the actual size. Damnit! I have just sold a set of those exact cranks! Looking at them, they don't look much different from the tensiles with the chainring set up fitted like I used to have it, if anything I'd say the freewheel moves the chain line outboard, as there is no bash taking up space.. It's very odd, I think I'd put my money on the BB length as that was a bit of a guess/use what was in stock. I do have another square taper BB (also onza) kicking about actually... Might measure that up too. Worst case, I will just run sticky fingers!

Measured the axle length of the spare onza crankset and that's a 127 (ish) so will probably be worse?

Haha awesome reply Ciaran! Some really good points there. 1) I honestly haven't looked at the dish that much as I am awaiting some new 4 bolt mounts (the lower half of one side is a V brake mount... How does that happen!?) Will definitely check it out though, I know the front. Has a fair few mm of dish, which I found quite odd... 2) Errr, that's a tough one, 135 rings a bell? Being totally honest this was a bit of a guess as the original frame I got (long story) had no BB so took an educated guess... I do have another square taper onza BB and cranks that had the original front freewheel (it actually has a double freewheel set up, quite impressively pointless!) From the T-Pro that I may try fitting, to see how it looks/rule out the BB length. They are 165cranks though... Not sure if that's good/bad/better/worse than the 175 tensiles I have now.. It wouldn't work with the rear chainring set up I originally had either, same BB... So you might be into something there... The chain line looks really good though, not sure moving it outboard much would be a good idea... I guess that's why I never suspected BB length. I have started a fresh a few times now as I have moved it through a couple of different set ups.. this is why I wondered if it's normal.. if you have had one on there, it must be something I am doing! Wheel axle lock nuts? Not sure.. axle is only 10mm. I'd rather use this wider hog wheel, as it used Allen bolts to secure the wheel, I have ordered a couple.of chain tugs too so that I can make sure the axle is square.

Apologies for the delay... Some not great photos of the onza tyre fitted, only about 5-7mm of clearance between tyre and chain. The creepy-crawlers are a tad wider so it catches....?

Yeah seemed straight to me, I will swap it over and snap a few when I'm back at the weekend.

Hi all, Fairly new to all this trials stuff, and have a quick question.. I have picked up a few spare bits and bobs.. some.of which are wheels. I have an onza T-Bird, and I tried to fit a spare set of wheels that look a bit better (still Onza)... The rear rim is wider with a creepy crawler on, but it was too wide and caught the chain. So, as the onza sticky finger is a little worn, I put the creepy crawler on the original, narrower rim.. but it still caught the chain. They are both 19(20)x2.5 tyres. Is there something I am missing or will I only be able to use sticky fingers on it? TIA Karl

Was reading through a few of the brake pad reviews, not realising how old they were!! https://www.tartybikes.co.uk/hs33_brake_pads/tr1al_hs33_pads_pair/c4p12672.html?pos=349.71429443359375&search_params=YTo3OntzOjEyOiJjYXRlZ29yeV9pZHMiO2E6MTp7aTowO3M6MToiNCI7fXM6MTY6ImNhdGVnb3J5X3JlY3Vyc2UiO2I6MTtzOjg6ImtleXdvcmRzIjtzOjA6IiI7czo5OiJicmFuZF9pZHMiO047czo0OiJtb2RlIjtzOjM6ImFsbCI7czo0OiJzb3J0IjtzOjk6InByaWNlX2FzYyI7czoxMDoiY291bnRyeV9pZCI7czoxOiIxIjt9 Are these tr1al pads the tarty replacements? Looking for some for no/very light grind..

I know what you mean, again I could spend another load of money trying out failed alternate levers.. Think I'm just going to have to keep my eye out for something to come up...

I have realised (as per another thread) I have a magura HS11 rear lever too... It's not ideal, a bit 4 finger, plastic thing with far too much reach... I'm going to have to get hold of a lever.... And new pads....

Damn.... Guess they move a lot less fluid... I thought so on the mods... Got the HS11 lever bled up today, works ok but I need foot long fingers to reach it.... And some new pads...

Do any of the other magura disc levers work on HS33's? Also, is the cut mod necessary on this lever? From all the vids/I do I have seen they are for a different lever?

Yeah I managed to bodge it quite nicely actually, I think they are just about set up, just the rears to bleed when I can catch up with my mate with a bleed kit... Really need some pads as these are worn so wonky... Made it a right faff to set up..

Cheers fellas. I was playing around today with the top lever, I found that I couldn't get that adjuster to adjust... To pulled it all apart and the screw portion has been snapped off. Currently bodged with a longer bolt, but it's working great now. Also just noticed looking at that picture, that's a hs11 lever!! Someone must have snapped the original and replaced it with the cheapest they could find... Hopefully it will work ok, I'm sure I read about them pushing less fluid..?

Funnily enough that was the same as this one! Also it seems the matching front wheel is dished over to one side for some reason...?? Might take it apart and have a go at re lacing a wheel.