Bennnn

heres my go!

Ill put one up tommorw, ill have to draw it though then load it to photoshop to do the deets.

Who says you cant have one bike for both, you know like a Han's Rey kinda bike. :) (Y) :D

:) (Y) Ugly.

Why are they quality cranks if they're always snapping? Seem like shit to me for what you pay for.

I ride mod and run 10 Psi in the rear with a try-all tire and in the front I run about 17 psi with a Maxxis Maxxdaddy tire.

Anyone else watch it?

Here's a new little vid of my self - http://cotrials.com/Ben%20Rucker%20-%20Tri...%20Version).mov - right click save as Let me know what you think I've been riding trials for a little over a year.

Pretty good for just three days of riding, you might want to get a helmet though.

GAPPING HUGE - There is so much to gapping. Here are three common mistakes: Back to top 1.not jumping when you throw your weight forward. 2.not hoping up, dropping the front end and really pushing down on the rear end when you land before you gap. 3.Not getting low and far back enough on the bike before you launch. Ok, first you do is to get a bike! THEN: Static: Before you do an attempt at the gap you should from beforehand have visualized it and thought it over many times. 1.Roll in front to the edge, get on the rear wheel, place yourself about 1-2 inch from the edge where you take off from. 2.Psyche you up, then do a little "jump" and then go really low and far back on the bike, your ass should just about hit the rear tire and arms stretched out. 3.Then at the same time as you push yourself really (with all the power you have) hard forward you KICK hard down with your feet (resulting in that you jump). 4.Then you do a slightly hard push in the pedals. 5.Then get very far in front (head in front of the bars!) as you push the rear end as far forward as you possible can (the bike should be as vertical as possible). But on very far gaps its not likely you will be able to do this (because of the height), what you should do then is to rise the bike a bit up so your helmet is just about to rub against your stem. 6.And when you hit with the rear wheel you push your bike really hard down in front of you making enough energy that you can pull yourself forward again without falling back. TRA tips: When you do a gap its often common to get the bike in an angle (that will result in getting a bit more air and shortening the gap). I always do this on big gaps and I also place myself in an angle before I take off. Then its easier to get the landing in an angle as well and this will result in bigger gaps. Pedal gap: Common mistakes: 1.Taking off with the last pedal stroke 2.Not getting far enough in front 3.Not jumping. So here is what you do: NOTE: This is base on that you ride with your left foot forward, if not you just turn it around. 1. Get some speed (if you want). Get a bit low on bike (so you are able to spring up more and get more height). Have your left foot forward ready to go. Start pedaling and when your right foot starts you use it to lift the front a bit up, pedal around and then shoot off hard with your left foot at the same time as you jump (quite hard to pedal and jump at the same time but that's the trick). Lifting this early will result in getting your rear end far in front of you. 2. Get really far in front (head as much in front of bars as possible) and push the rear end as far in front of you as you can, the bike should be even more than vertical!! 3. Land. TRA tips: Also here you can try to twist the bike in the air and get it on an angle, this will result in bigger gaps. Gaps with rise: Same except that you pull the bike up in the air to get the rear tire as high as possible. -Thomas Remvik Aasen

If you drop the front before the gap it'll let you go alot higher. I can get about 7 1/2 feet static.

Pretty sweet. Except two things- 1. Wear a helmet. 2. Don't put a tranny after every clip just gets rather annoying...

What about a good ole Threshold booster and cut it down to a two bolt. I'm not sure if they sell them over there in the U.K. though...

It's funny how everyone thinks these are the best cranks you can buy...My X-Lite cranks were going good for 8 years between three different riders and I just had to switch them because they had metric threads...

Keep it on...Not having a bashplate isn't going to make you "Hardcore"...Having a bashplate is nice, it comforts you knowing that if you mess up you are not going to dent your frame. Everyone messes up - even professionals. Plus there are moves you can do like bash to rear. Or what about competition, if you're allowed to use a bash, why not use it?...it could help you get a better score. Just my two cents, I would leave it on if I we're you. Ben

33 inches

Okay, thing is, the Monty website says 305 but when I measured mine it was like 312. Maybe I measured wrong I'll check again.

How do you measure bb height?

Alright so this is the geo so far. BB Height - 305 mm Wheelbase with 45 mm offset - 1000 Chainstays - 372 Headangle - 72 degrees Basically it'll look like a BT with a seat (Y)

Alright so I'm getting a custom mod frame made up since my Monty has finally died. :turned: I'm sure about getting a 72 degrees head angle, 305 mm bottom bracket height, and the wheelbase will depend about 10 mm depending on the chainstay length. The wheelbase will be 990 if I go with 362 and 1000 if I go with 372 with a fork of 45 mm rake. So what I need to know is 362 mm chainstays all that better on the rear as everyone is saying? Or should I stick with 372 mm chainstays? I'll post some pictures of it when it's done should be rather good, It'll also have some cool stuff like an integrated booster, CNC chainstay yolk, Magura mounts under the frame for a cleaner look, seat post, and baby blue paint. Ben

I think it's rather normal. I've broken one shimano freewheel, one dicta, one xt bottom bracket, and today I just found a hairline crack in my frame. :P

What do you think of it?