Bottleneck

That was the first thing I’ve tried - I’ve had a similar problem on a different bike, so I thought I knew what to do, but apparently it’s not it. I’d been trying to reset the tyre on the rim for half an hour, but it didn’t change anything. I’ve also checked that the rim doesn’t have an egg.

Hi guys, Today I replaced the rear tyre on my Inspired Element with a Schwalbe Crazy Bob, and noticed that it was slightly too small. The part of the sidewall that is supposed to be completely outside the rim seemed to be inside on about one third of its circumference, which created a sort of an egg on the tyre. Does someone know what it is due to (manufacturing, different standard, etc)? It is getting on my nerves as I love manualling and this thing makes me twerk like crazy If it helps I am running the Inspired rim that came as standard with Element bikes around 2011. (sorry for the terrible formulation) Thanks!

There is an awesome bowl/skatepark by the lake in Lausanne, it's called Bowl de Vidy Also from what I've seen in videos, the pure trials park in Cran-Gevrier in Annecy looks good

Oops... my bad

I don't think I've seen silver rims on a red Arcade before... Awesome color combo!

That is the best thing about trials I think - you can ride almost anything with some creativity! Pallets are good in the sense that you can stack them in many different ways to change the course around when you get bored. Also, tires are great, especially the big ones from trucks and tractors. If you're building your course in your backyard, it might be difficult, but concrete blocks and big rocks are also pretty good. And don't forget tree trunks My backyard course also includes my dog's doghouse (she isn't too happy about it though). You can look up trials courses online for some inspiration, especially the one of Radical Bikes

I've had Heatsink Yellows on these rims (26"), and they seem to work really well even when the grind is old and the rims are wet and dirty (your typical November ride in Moscow). Sort of off topic, but I run the exact same setup on my 24" neon single wall rims, and they work much worse. Does it make any sense?

If your rear wheel hits the wall instead of landing on the corner too often, I'd say try taking off a bit earlier. This should give you more time to lift up the bike. The higher you go, the earlier you need to do the pedal stroke, but if you start too early and/or pull the handlebars too high, you might either land with your weight too far back or even miss the corner altogether and flop on your back (yep, happened to the best of us ). Basically it is all a question of timing, and it only comes with practice. Also, preloading more allows you to sort of spring up with more power, also increasing the height of the jump. And keep in mind that preloading also takes time. If you ride a 20" or a 24" street bike, you could try bunny hopping up stuff. It is easier for some people and more difficult for others, depending on your bike's geometry, handlebars angle, stem length, and also your height, but I'd say both techniques are useful.

I am currently running LGM greens on the front end of my mod. The advantage is that they seem to last quite long (at least for me), but I found that once the grind isn't fresh anymore, they loose some bite (they are meant for well ground rims, after all, duh ). Oh, and I can't really explain it, but I like them much better as the rear brake pads. Sort of off topic, but I personally recommend Heatsink Yellows, I've had them on a 24" bike for 2 years, and I think they still have as long in them! Also, the hold is surprisingly good even when the grind is really worn out, and the bite is decent as well. If you are looking for all-round pads, this would be my choice, unless you specifically want the TNNs

After running out of pure trials spots in vicinity and basically getting a bit bored of pogo sticks, but still keeping my love for high bottom brackets and rim brakes, I've decided to modify the front end of my bike so I can bunny hop and manual, but still do pure trials moves as well. Here goes... Frame: Echo Trials 24" Fork: Echo Urban 2011 (I think) Front rim: Echo 2016 Front tyre: Maxxis Snyper Front hub: Trialtech Sport Lite disc Rear rim: Neon Single Rear Tyre: Schwalbe Fat Albert Rear hub: Jitsie 135HS Race BB: Echo Urban Freewheel: Trialtech Splined 108 Cranks: Trialtech Sport Lite Pedals: Echo Urban platform Stem: Trialtech forged, not sure about the dimensions but probably 80x30º, comes as standard with Inspired bikes Handlebars: Jitsie Carbon 110mm rise, 690mm width Front brakes: Avid Juicy, 180mm rotor Rear brakes: Trialtech Sport lever with Echo slave cylinders and Heatsink Yellow pads Voilà les garçons, not as sexy as Ross's Vader, but I just love how this bike feels! And if I (ever) want to go back to pure trials, All I have to do is put my old long stem back and tilt the bars waaaaaay forward

Not exactly on topic, but I recently got my hands on two 24" Schwalbe Fat Alberts, and they are incredible! I don't know about where you live, but even in Europe they are very difficult to hunt down. Totally worth it though, I must say. Quite lightweight and very grippy, but not too durable I guess due to the rather soft compound. I certainly prefer these over Minions

It leaks around the pistons, so the oil gets onto the pads and the brakes basically stop working (no surprise)

Wait... I feel so stupid right now, but I actually meant that the brakes were leaking at the callipers. Got my vocabulary mixed up... Apologies

These were all new brakes from Tarty, except for the Hayes. They started leaking before any rebleeding, and bleeding them again didn't seem to help I did think about going for cable brakes, these certainly won't leak!

Hi guys, i seem to have a problem with hydraulic disc brakes. All of the ones I've had have started leaking at the master cylinder after only a few months of use! I've had a few Echo tr's, Hope and Hayes, and always ended up with the same problem. I don't suppose it's normal? Any suggestions? I'm feeling sort of hopeless (pun intended)... Thanks!