BJ.

Bit of an old post but does anyone have a link of this video that works?

Solar PV isn't worth getting ATM unless you're going for a battery storage system too. If you go down this route look into Therm IQ infrared heating panels too, they only draw about 400w. Also have a look into Micro CHP (Combined Heat & Power) Boilers. I assessed an old Victorian solid brick built property about 6 week ago and the property gained an A Rating in its Energy Performance Assessment which was achieved mainly by the boiler. Hope this helps.

Sounds like it needs more cable tension. How close does the mech cage sit to the chainrings in first and third? upload a photo in first and first and third and what ever your highest gear is.

I don't think you'll get the spokes through with the sprocket still attached. Trying getting some heat into it and trying unscrewing again. It may need two of you to try and crack it free.

It really isn't I do it on a daily basis. Also you should check to see if the CSU is clicking

Check the fork and shock for cavitation check the pivot bearings and check the drivetrain for wear

Hi. The issues you're having is definitely cable related. The barrel adjuster on top of the carb when wound out would put tension on the inner cable and when wound in release tension which would close the carb. It seems like you've just cut the cable too short.

I've got a mate that imports cars and parts from Japan. Check out Gorrilla Imports on Facebook. He had a GS300 not so long ago. I've also got a mate with a Toyota Soarer up for sale which may be of interest to you.

The wheel spins forwards? The only time this is ever going to be of any benefit it if you're landing in the rear wheel from something like a rolling gap and when your rear wheel hits the landing the bike would have to be past vertical.

The rear brake mount position isn't ideal in my opinion. That'll flex away from the frame under braking putting a huge amount of stress on the mounts as well as not feeling as positive as it would have been if it was mounted the usual way.

Just ride it. If it comes loose send it back for a warranty claim.

From the top of my head I'm pretty sure it's 45 x 45 if you're struggling sourcing them give me a message and I'll pop you some in the post they're £6 each plus postage.

It's he 1.6 HDI. If it was the ECU would the management light not flag up or at least the diagnostics not show something? Im struggling finding a wiring diagram to be honest so I feel like my hands are tied. also I don't think it's the clocks because when you turn on the ignition they all move and do a little test and all seems to be fine.

So after trying the Berlingo forum and having no joy I thought it's worth a punt at testing the knowledge of fellow trials enthusiasts. I've recently purchased a Citroen Berlingo with a faulty speedometer and it's really starting to get on my last nerve. Symptoms are: Clocks won't register any speed or milage. The speedo moves when the ignition is turned on and does a little test but when driving just sits at 0mph So far I have located the speedo drive sensor and replaced it for a new one (although the box was damaged and it was the last in stock from Euro so maywell have been a duff one) and still not had any luck. I took the car to an auto electrician who plugged it in on a Bosch computer but didn't find a relevant fault code, but said it's common for the drive gear inside the gearbox to snap and not spin the sensor best way to check was to take out the sensor rotate the wheels and see if the cog was moving, I did this and that cog seemed to be moving fine (video to hand if needed) The electrician then said if I plug the speed sensor in and attach the other end to a drill the speedo should move and the drill would simulate a moving vehicle but the clocks still didn't register anything. Feel like I'm banging my head against a brick wall now any help is much appreciated.

Hitting it really hard off the floor is the only real way but it'll never be perfect