stirlingpowers

I remember that he broke a snailcam recently. It was probably there, causing the chain noise. David goes through frames like butter, so a chainstay protector wouldn't really protect the frame...

I appended outtakes to the first video filename as a hint for David that this one includes the missed jumps (the first view seconds). I think Rusevelt meant something like "Checkout the other video", and some keyboard input service made outtakes out of that. And for the slide fall in the Mannheim video: I stopped recording the moment it happened. The last frame is in the video.

His spine

Recently I captured a typical training session of David in Schatthausen, where the local motorsports club has built a very nice trials site, which is used by many world elite riders to hone their skills:

My experience for the sidewalls: Buy washerless clamps and parallel-sidewall rims -> brake works even with dead grind. Buy Magura clamps with washer and angled rims -> tried to adjust many times, asked others to set it up for me, shitty brake every time.

And TRA probably weighs twice as much as Brumotti...

You have a wallpaper of your mum in your bathroom?

Pussy goes by the name "Watson" for sure.

The moped.

Really nice video. It also introduced me to "New Retro" music...

Imbeciles doing traffic education campaigns should focus on the bigger and easier to fight health problems of traffic: http://www.transportenvironment.org/press/50000-heart-deaths-year-caused-traffic-noise This conservative estimate in the link above doubles the number of deaths by mechanical accidents, and that is just heart disease. And other studies come to the conclusion that it is not just old people who die by this effect. In any case, traffic noise makes life a lot worse than it could be. With the efforts on automotive "sound design", even new family cars are made to sound "sonorous" and "impressive", for example the target for diesel cars is to sound like an attacking bigger animal, to which we can't get used to in our subconscious reactions. In any case, frequencies transmitting the most power in car noise have gone down, which means you can't insulate your house/sleeping room against that kind of noise, due to the mechanics of sound propagation in continuous media. To see the real effect of this, just compare an everyday stock 90s petrol car like a small Volkswagen Golf and a new stock diesel family car going up an inclined small inner historic city road - the old one is very silent, the new diesel makes bass noise like in a club, in the streets and in the houses. While lower frequencies mostly don't signal an immediate danger to our subconscious and therefore more bearable, they are genetically imprinted to still represent a danger and therefore increase anxiety/excitation levels during night and day.

Thanks, I'll buy this stuff then.

Hope 200 rotor with Jitsie pads working?

This cat can gap.

Back to topic, Boosters: Look at your rear brake area while braking. With modern reinforced frames, the mush often originates from bending brake clamp screws.

Hands.

Thanks. I'll keep that in mind when I need a new rim.

I can't turn my eyes away from this horror. Nice angles on the Echo crankset, btw. @Mark: Can you recommend anything sporting parallel sidewalls, single wall bed and top brake performance? Weight and color don't matter, I cut and sandblast anyways.

I have to stop reading this thread.

I understood, and I believe he told the truth. For reasons of sanity, I will try to forget it, however.

What.

That's trial parts in general, not just Trialtech. @OP: Holy moly.

And now for something completely different: Serious advice. - Tarty tutorial video on grinding, remember to re-grind when surface gets dull - usually and without sandy/dusty conditions, every few weeks or so. And this tutorial: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/176715-how-to-grind-a-rim/ - Parallel brake pads adjustment, see http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/176741-how-to-setup-hydraulic-rim-brakes/ http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/177318-how-to-face-magura-mounts-do-this-before-rim-brake-setup/ - No air in the hydraulic system: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/176712-how-to-bleed-a-pre-2011-hydraulic-rim-brake/ http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/176760-2011-hs11-hs33-bleed-information/ Stopping the wheel while rotating in the air with a light push of the brake lever should result in a very, very short squeal and the very important "clunk" sound coming from the immediate stop of the wheel. When rolling at slow speed, a well set up brake will bite aggressively, stopping the bike underneath you immediately with a short, loud squealing sound. You are aiming for this: Material and advanced stuff: - Good brake booster (my favourites for hydraulics are Jitsie 4-point if rich or 2-point Magura Evo2), alu brake pad backings will help as well. - A rim with parallel sidewalls is often the difference between an awful and a dream brake. - If you have a parallel-type rim, you could buy aftermarket brake clamps for hydraulic brakes, which do not have the o-ring for angular adjustment, but instead rely on parallel rim sidewalls. Fewer degrees of freedom in brake pad angles will make adjustment easier. Examples are TNN or Jitsie, but not Echo SL clamps. - Water bleeding the hydraulic brake makes for a quicker response and usually doesn't wreck the sealing, some antifreeze for harsh winter conditions is recommended. - 2014 HS33 is your value for money choice for the main brake components. If rich, you could upgrade to Racing Line or even Clean brake levers, for the stylez. The most robust levers are 2003 model year Magura HS33 and also 2005 ones. To the latter, one can fit Magura or Racing Line four-finger levers for more braking force. - Then, there is still the combination of brake pad and rim material. Echo rims and Heatsink yellow pads, I think, are one example of a good match, or TryAll K2 rims and Coustellier or Croco pads another (please correct me on this if I am wrong, I run a rather exotic 24 combination). In the above video, TNN ADM (which I could not get to work with angled Bonz rear rims, but they are the cat's ass on Bonz front and Because rear) and Rockman rims are used. - Tar or violin wax/resin is for immediate help in the field, I've seen brakes performing under all conditions faultlessly without that stuff for weeks.

I'd start with selling a light and still very leak-proof brake lever, which would give me a hard-to-beat reputation for quality for my whole brand.

I agree, it would be fragile. But at more than three times the price of an HS11 lever (and admittedly high fixed costs), perhaps there are a view cents left to bankruptcy. What about some sort of hook and eye connection? Sorry about my English, I don't know if that is the right term for it - I mean a rectangular opening over almost the whole width of the handlebar clamp to distribute pressure for fitting accuracy, and an evenly wide hook on the counterpart.