stirlingpowers

The day will come when I can't really progress anymore. Then I will proceed to treating myself with a custom frame with comp geometry, still sporting a seat. Thereby, I will be able to impress the young ladies, making them look at what the old man still can do.

Bonz F.T.W. (for the win is censored?), if you do not weigh too much.

http://www.brianmac.co.uk/stndjump.htm

Damn. This is style.

The key idea is to choose the distance so that you can go approx. 1.5 crank revolutions in total. You should start with your good foot at somewhere around 10-11 o'clock. You can do this with your bad foot in this position, doing only one revolution, but it will be harder, with the benefit of requiring less space. Start with 1.5 revolutions, if you can do well above a meter in height, start practicing the shorter inrun. Do it like the pros, standing still, balancing by moving the front wheel only, somewhat crouched position, pedal preloaded, good foot forward. Practice this position until you can comfortably balance that way, and reach a good stable straight start position with very few corrections. Thereby you can position yourself, do a few corrections without tiring your good leg out, and do the pedal-up. The pedal preload determines where you start. Find a combination that works for you in terms of balance and endurance in your legs, minimum disturbance when accelerating from the standstill and good acceleration. Keep this pedal position and change your starting distance to the obstacle depending on its height. There will not be so much difference, perhaps 50 centimeters in distance for a height from 0,7 to 1,3 meters. A stick on the ground will help you sorting out other varying effects in the jumps while varying the distance. Thereby, the distance controls the angle of the jump: If you get the distance right and are comfortable with the jump itself, the right distance will make you do the move in the right angle. You have found the right distance when you don't have to stretch forward to reach the edge of the obstacle during landing, and when you don't have the feeling that you have to get the front wheel up fast to avoid a collision with the edge, for example by emphasizing throwing yourself back and pedaling very hard. Both height and precision come from moving your body over the back wheel and to the handlebars during front wheel liftoff. By moving yourself over the rear wheel, you can lift your front wheel slower (something which is necessary to be said to most people who start to practice this move), which is good for a controlled jump. With your weight over the back wheel, you have a longer distance to accelerate towards the bars, thereby jumping higher. Perhaps you could practice lifting the front wheel into a desired position near the upper edge of the obstacle while you stay over the rear wheel, i.e. without doing the actual jump, but getting a feeling for the balance actions required in this position. More precision can be achieved by keeping the handlebars close to your chest during the tuck-in phase, i.e. your elbows should be bent almost 90 degrees while you move the bike upwards. The bike should feel close and controllable. All of what I described can be seen in the first 10 seconds in this vid:

Thanks, mate!

Brand name, anyone?

http://www.k-124store.com/fr/230-26

The best wishes from Germany! I very much hope he will be able to say this very soon:

One addendum: Using this technique of emphasizing throwing my head and upper body up and back, I can now coust over narrow rails, i.e. without letting the bike roll on the front wheel for a bit to support the wheel swap. Thanks again. I had a serious mental block there.

The coust to the small wooden rail. Holy.

and I seriously like it. Awesome bike.

You enlightened me.

Very interesting link. Based on that, which should use three days of browsing history, Google thinks I want to buy Baby Food and watch the Olympics, listen to Rap and stuff. I think I can safely say - even if I take my unconscious mindf**ks into account - that Google personality, mindset and thought spying is still sucking big time. If the site reflects Google's state of algorithmic psychoanalysis about a user correctly, they know shit about me after approx. 10 hours of random search.

The man. BTW: What's this Haha thing? Laughing (why?) or Nelson-From-The-Simpsons-type Haha (meaning Haha, you can't do that, you fat lazy f**kers)? It's everywhere on the Internets nowadays.

Be you sorcerers? Pigeon and "try giving yourself a whiplash" made it in my head! I can do it now, learned it within minutes on a 30" flat obstacle, and I don't even need self-destroying momentum. Thanks a lot to all contributors, you freed me from the Static curse!

Horizontal, yes, my bad. So magic friction it is, as I understand from your comments.

How is the axle kept in place with the new type of vertical adjustment system (like on the new Arcade, the Marino, Ozonys, Zoot Pro and others)? Mostly, there is just one screw. Ozonys have another one perpendicular to the chain direction to press the slider onto the frame to prevent it from moving forwards under chain load, so do the others also rely on this principle, but just use the axle screw for this instead? Or in other words: Does it work properly, i.e. better than the annoying snail cams?

Ok, thank you all, then it is as I suspected: Abuse until whiplash. There seem to be two different styles: Some people go over the bars with a straightened out upper body, almost not moving the legs, using them only for compression, while others crouch a bit and keep their upper body relatively centered over the handlebars (for example Giacomo). I can jump up 30" using my legs with an approximation of the latter technique, but then I don't have enough forward movement to stay on the obstacle. So I will try to focus on tyre compression and whiplash. Perhaps that is the direction for improving my move. Perhaps I should also try a 150x30 stem, as I have currently a 165x35 on my 24 high-bb bike - which would help in not hitting the stem every time I do this move.

0:42, for example: http://vimeo.com/32915050 How can one obtain so much momentum to push 30" up - almost without going down to pre-charge the legs. Of course there is a lot of load in it, but I don't know how to get this fast from the starting position with the handlebar in your way. Do you know some good mind model related to it? When I focus on a point a bike length away on the obstacle and concentrate on not bending my knees, I can pull up onto two wheels with only a fair amount of momentum, but the front wheel does not lift into the air then. If I use the front brake and leverage around the front tyre contact point by pushing the bars forward, I can get up to the rear wheel, but not without using a fair amount of space on the obstacle for rolling along with the front tyre before it lifts. At the moment it feels more effortless for me to do a 45" side hop than a 30" static. So is it all about abusing the body to do it as fast as possible? It looks so effortless when Vince or Gilles do it...

Nice to see an Inspired used for trials riding, not skatey BMX stuff. Duncan Shaw has some courage. And the skill to not break his p.enis applying it. The H&S hogwash throughout the video was disturbing: For trying to fake the illusion that the riding could be performed in a "safe" manner - i.e. the meaning your mom associates with "safe". And for providing clear directions to a f.ucked-up society where generalized anxiety disorder is a political goal and not an illness.

Such a nice bike. The spacer tower scares me. Trialtech should produce a 140x40 stem...

Thanks, mate. Royal blood? I herd water is ***.

What is that LOCATION? Old movie theater? Man... that is too stylish.