stirlingpowers

Okokok, I trolled a bit. I am sorry. I correct myself and say: If you adjust your bars Carthy-style, this move will be easier to do smoothly. But your general riding style will become more sketchy. BTW: I may have developed a thing for fancy tight compression trousers.

Trialtech frames? Shut up and take my money.

Cheese maybe, but still the best FWs there are

Adjust your bars forward Carthy-style. I always notice how much more precise I can turn on the rear when I use this bar position. Center of gravity has to be over the rear wheel center during a hop, otherwise you will need more space. Most likely, your center of gravity will be way too much forward during lift-off, as you are used to jumping forward. Stand relatively upright compared to normal hopping, your elbows could be at an almost rectangular angle. Turn your head into the direction you want to go, 10 to 20 degrees will be enough, just comfortably looking to the right or left a bit. Before you lift off for a hop, turn the bars towards intended turning direction, approx. 10 degrees or so, modest speed. Just so much angle that it does not influence your balance. Small hop only, focus on keeping the center of gravity over the rear. When in the air, straighten out the bars, leveraging the bike into the turning direction, supported by pulling the bar end of the turning direction towards you and pushing the other away a bit. Look at Jack Carthy for this move. He is really smooth in that.

Do you have a link to these pages? I can't find them with my Google foo.

Ok, this is valid thinking, accepted. Besides the Skye, they most likely will not sell thousands.

50 won't be enough for even the first batch of Skyes. If these tyres kill the Street, they will have to make a few thousand at least.

Does anyone know if Schwalbe has stopped making it or not? The global site only mentions 1.75 and 1.9 tyres now.

Perhaps they "bed it in" properly...

It never happened during liftoff for a serious gap. It occurs mostly when I prepare a move (but that may be just a statistical effect of the total usage time of the different phases of trials moves). However, I had a few during a height-oriented coust or sidehop - where the force on the pedals is in the medium range.

The freewheel did it today while I was balancing on the rear wheel preparing for a sidehop. I had the brakes off and held the bike just with the pedals when it happened. And I can now say for sure that it skips and does not only click. The skip is small, as it is a 120 freewheel, but it is there. It didn't kill my balance, however, three degrees of crank movement is just too small for that in a relatively static move.

I'm pretty sure it gives in when making this noise. But I will check this and post once I have made my mind up. As I said, it never happened under load, so one wouldn't feel a forceful movement when it happens.

After Cocks and Shit-Zee now this. We really should call Professor Freud to investigate.

Got one, light rider but chain killer, classic trials only, three months old now, bedded in by rolling around for one hour on a hot day: Skips once every 1 or 2 hours since new, didn't change. Never skipped under heavy load. Relatively silent.

Are these the standard brakes, i.e. Echo TR hydraulic rim brakes with white Echo pads? A mate does not get them to work well, but in your video, there seems to be enough bite and force.

I always found the Onza to be way more accessible than any Inspired, which always felt heavy and somewhat uncontrollable to me. But robust they were, really well built. But I am only a straight edge classic trials rider, doing nothing but sidehops and cousts.

The day will come when I can't really progress anymore. Then I will proceed to treating myself with a custom frame with comp geometry, still sporting a seat. Thereby, I will be able to impress the young ladies, making them look at what the old man still can do.

Bonz F.T.W. (for the win is censored?), if you do not weigh too much.

http://www.brianmac.co.uk/stndjump.htm

Damn. This is style.

The key idea is to choose the distance so that you can go approx. 1.5 crank revolutions in total. You should start with your good foot at somewhere around 10-11 o'clock. You can do this with your bad foot in this position, doing only one revolution, but it will be harder, with the benefit of requiring less space. Start with 1.5 revolutions, if you can do well above a meter in height, start practicing the shorter inrun. Do it like the pros, standing still, balancing by moving the front wheel only, somewhat crouched position, pedal preloaded, good foot forward. Practice this position until you can comfortably balance that way, and reach a good stable straight start position with very few corrections. Thereby you can position yourself, do a few corrections without tiring your good leg out, and do the pedal-up. The pedal preload determines where you start. Find a combination that works for you in terms of balance and endurance in your legs, minimum disturbance when accelerating from the standstill and good acceleration. Keep this pedal position and change your starting distance to the obstacle depending on its height. There will not be so much difference, perhaps 50 centimeters in distance for a height from 0,7 to 1,3 meters. A stick on the ground will help you sorting out other varying effects in the jumps while varying the distance. Thereby, the distance controls the angle of the jump: If you get the distance right and are comfortable with the jump itself, the right distance will make you do the move in the right angle. You have found the right distance when you don't have to stretch forward to reach the edge of the obstacle during landing, and when you don't have the feeling that you have to get the front wheel up fast to avoid a collision with the edge, for example by emphasizing throwing yourself back and pedaling very hard. Both height and precision come from moving your body over the back wheel and to the handlebars during front wheel liftoff. By moving yourself over the rear wheel, you can lift your front wheel slower (something which is necessary to be said to most people who start to practice this move), which is good for a controlled jump. With your weight over the back wheel, you have a longer distance to accelerate towards the bars, thereby jumping higher. Perhaps you could practice lifting the front wheel into a desired position near the upper edge of the obstacle while you stay over the rear wheel, i.e. without doing the actual jump, but getting a feeling for the balance actions required in this position. More precision can be achieved by keeping the handlebars close to your chest during the tuck-in phase, i.e. your elbows should be bent almost 90 degrees while you move the bike upwards. The bike should feel close and controllable. All of what I described can be seen in the first 10 seconds in this vid:

Thanks, mate!

Brand name, anyone?

http://www.k-124store.com/fr/230-26