Village Idiot

Hi, I'm having trouble when trying to pedal kick up a wall (the one where you hop on your back wheel in front of the wall and then lurch forward and up onto the wall). I can only get up walls which are about 1-1.5ft max. This is what I do: -get on the back wheel hop a bit to get in position, -lower the front wheel and lurch up onto the wall. The thing is that when I lower the front wheel, it hits the top of the wall and I think that's whats stopping me getting up. If I try from further back, I can lower the front without it hitting the wall but can't get the distance to get up. Is there something I'm doing wrong, or should I be trying it from a different angle (i.e. slightly from the side so the wheel doesn't hit the wall) or something? Cheers Ian

Hi, I'm in 2nd year Newcastle uni. Don't know many riders in Newcastle though and I mainly ride at the coast (Whitley Bay etc).

yeah, just got mine built up today. heres a pic: have only had a quick shot on it, but it seems really nice (even though its heavier than my last bike).

ok, thanks for all the help. have decided to get the revell :ermm: - have ordered it from tarty bikes this morning. i fancied something a bit more streety, so hopefully this'll be ok for me cheers ian

is steel easier to weld than aluminium? whats wrong with them? can you run a normal 8 speed gear set up with a mech? cheers

Hi, I haven't heard much about Revell Bikes and was wondering if anyone has one (Revell Stock frame) and could let me know what they ride like. Also, are they reliable and likely to snap/crack? Cheers

Hi, Was wondering what the main differences are between the Echo Control and the Echo Pure (strength, what type of riding they are geared towards...). I currently ride a mixture of street and natural (but probably more street). Also what's the advantage of having a +10mm/20mm bb height over a +0mm? Cheers

Name-Ian A Town- Newcastle How long riding trials- 1.5 years Would you be prepared to travel to the park- yes email adress- ian_a27@hotmail.com i am signing this form on my be half to support the trials park in crook IAN

Here's mine: Cracked on the right chainstay just by the bb area

I'll take a pic of my cracked T-Raptor and upload it once I get in from uni.

Have been trying to do crank flips (the ones where you hop on the back wheel, then place your foot on the backwheel and flip the cranks with your other foot before pedalling off. I'm having trouble actually flipping the cranks, I can get on the back wheel ok, but can't flip the cranks. I backhop for a bit, and when I'm ready take my bad foot (right) and place it on the backwheel and try to spin the cranks with my left foot, but can't. Does anyone have any tips on this? I've tried doing it the other way (putting my left foot on the wheel, but then the cranks just slip back as there is no pressure keeping them forward).

ok, cheers. just a few questions: what size hole is best - its just a hairline crack that goes from the top of the chainstay to the underside? also, is it ok to use just any drill and is there a preferred speed to drill at?

Just fitted my new cranks, and found a small crack where the right hand side chainstay meets the bb. (will try and upload a pic soon). I'm not too sure what to do about this. I've heard of people drilling a hole to stop the crack from getting any bigger but don't really know how to do this. Also, could overtightening the bb when fitting it have caused this, as I didn't notice it until after fitting the cranks, or it is just likely to have happened due to use - (my frames a t-raptor and I've had it 18 months).

Im gonna some middlburn rs7's for my onza t raptor but don't know what crank arm length to get. whats the difference between 165, 170 and 175? (my current cranks are 170) and what would be best for me? (i'm 5ft 9) if thats any help

yeah me and my mate mite come up seeing as we only live bout 1/2 hour away

Yeah there good. They just seem to run smoothly and give you no trouble once you've set it up. I've only had mine about 6 months and its given me no problems.