Siders77

Read his post properly you fanny. Haha :ermm:

You thick shit! :P

Sure he's not. :closedeyes:

I sold my T-Bird frame with bash, headset, bar, stem and BB for £50 and it was in mint condition. So I wouldn't say more than £50, really. :closedeyes:

I wouldn't bother, it's crap. It's just like glue (Well, I think it actually is glue) It makes your brakes squeak really loun and is just generally poo. (Y)

Yes, I know. That's why I said "I love OTN" (Y)

So Nads. You're telling me that..... If overnight I randomly made up a company that sells pads and bashrings etc which had NO testing, a poor website with shit loads of spelling mistakes, poorly Photoshopped RimJam pads that I told everyone were my own. You'd still buy loads of stuff from me? I know for a fact that Heatsink Bikes is still around today because Steve puts a lot of effort into developing/improving his pads and boosters etc.... Would you still ride a Monty if you knew that it had been designed in MS Paint and had about an hours testing by "Superb Hardcore riders" (Y)

Doesn't everyone?

The year 2000 called, they want their post back. (Y) Haha, I love OTN. (Y)

Probably, but if you're going to start a business you have to expect some bad feedback. Yeah, the ripping is a bit out of order but anyway. I say you need to- Get a decent site designed with no ads! Test your products loads before releasing them. Don't just give up because you got some bad feedback. Look into designing some more tees with a bit of variety. In all honesty I think you should just stick with the clothing bit and not worry about making parts until you're a little more well known to people. For all we know you could be ripping everyone the hell off when they buy from you. (Y) Do some research on products and stuff. Like Nick did with the sizes of tees (Here) so people know that you're actually looking into stuff like that. I'm only saying this because Interact Clothing or Interact Bikes (what ever it's called, see, I don't even know what it's called (Y) ) Get a spell checker on the new site! it looks really unprofessional when there's a shit loads of spelling mistakes on the site. When you start posting stuff like this; then you might just be taken seriously.

Happy birthday old man. (Y) (Y)

Why do you want the topic closed?

For a Titanium frame? (Y)

You have your Opteron yet, Andy? I've just been reading on the OcUK forum that AMD are only giving Opterons to people who build computers and sell them on. Something along those lines anyway... I'll chat to you on MSN in a mo. (Y)

Seriously, why the feck do you have to quote pictures? It's a nice bike, yeah. But does that mean that we have to see it 3 times because of all of the quote-ness?! (Y)

By volume I'm guessing you mean sound? Anyway, Just check that in Volume Control it isn't on mute or anything. (Y) Try a system restore too. Start>Programs>Accessories>System Tools>System Restore. If that doesn't work find out what soundcard/sound port you have and download the drivers for it. Or maybe... (Y)

It sounds like it's copied from the Heatsink Bikes site. Can you explain how it's being cut?

A few people on here have them. Onzaboymarks- Calebs- :'(

These. From here. TartyBikes. :'(

If you were going to insult someone for their spelling the least you could have done is spelt correctly yourself regardless of weather you were typing too fast or not. :'(

Haha, Irony?

How do you know? Have you done Pogo-Trials?

:'( I wondered what was going on...... :'(

To bleed a hope brake: Tools required: 8mm ring spanner 4mm allen key for lever 2mm (I think) allen key for top cap bolts 3mm allen key Plastic tubing An old bottle Some tape DOT 5.1 fluid Copper grease A rag Dust sheet /big rag What to do: *Put the bike in a convenient place to work on it, ie bike stand or somewhere it’s not going to get knocked. *Remove the wheel and pads from the calliper to prevent contamination from leaks. Push pistons ‘home’ into calliper using tyre lever or a spanner *Put dust sheet / rag under the bike where your working to catch drips *Set up brake lever so the top of the reservoir is flat to prevent spillage. *Put ring spanner over bleed nipple, followed by plastic tube. Feed tube into the old bottle, and tape the bottle to fork/frame to it doesn’t get knocked over *Now, remove top cam and diaphragm from the lever. *Undo the bleed nipple ¼ of a full turn (anticlockwise) and squeeze the lever slowly all the way to the bars. *Close the bleed nipple. *Let the lever return to normal position. – note how the fluid level decreases during this step. *Repeat this open-pull-close-release procedure until all fluid is replaced. Remember to top up the reservoir periodically. If you see the reservoir empty, you will have introduced air into the system – keep going and don’t let it get that low again! *Watch the tube on the bleed nipple for a colour change (showing you when the new fluid has flushed the system) and for bubbles. Keep going until no more bubbles are seen. It is worth tapping the lever and calliper periodically (sharply with a spanner or similar) to free trapped air. *Once you are satisfied, close the bleed nipple and top up the fluid reservoir to the brim. *Now get the rubber diaphragm (may be stuck under top cap) and roll it on from one side so as to minimise air trapped beneath it (if you just plonck it on top, there will be trapped air which may work its way into the system when bike is upside down). Keep the rag directly under the lever at this point, its can be messy with overflowing fluid. *Then replace top cap, and wipe down lever. *Remove bleed equipment from the calliper, make sure there is no fluid present that may contaminate pads or disk. *Wash hands before reinstalling pads/disk – your fingers will be covered in fluid! *Now dab copper grease on the back of the pads (helps reduce noise and seizing pistons) and reinstall them, followed by the wheel. *Pump the lever to re-centre the pads. *Ride! :'( Thanks to nmt_oli for the guide. :'(

:'( Cool? Lol