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winchman

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Everything posted by winchman

  1. Thanks just done the feedback, its my first purchase on here and he was an outstanding help
  2. I am new to this and have had some top tips from every one here, but I would like to say a big thank you to Err. He sold me a bike for me and my son to use and do up, he spent time Emailing me to explain everything I needed to know and it arrived well packed exactly when he said it would. So Thanks Paul
  3. If it gets you back riding then its worth a lot to you. As other people have said the world is very ficcle and people will sell a very good quality bike cheap as its last years model colour etc, I dont dismis some of the older stuff as my own mountain bike is a ally frame with Deore DX 96 on it so its 15 years old but it does evey thing I want, so if you like the colour and the price is right just buy it and ride it
  4. Now if its Coke Can thin ally then you are in the brown stuff. I dont remember the ally failing when its been welded bit either? I will ask at work tonight if one of the coded lads is in as its an interesting point
  5. Which engineering principal is this?? Its common practice in engineering to weld cracks up. Technically the crack would be ground along its length to make it wider then a run of weld put in the larger crack you now have. The weld will be stronger than the metal around it so it could move the stress concentrations by a few milimeters, but in the real world this dosnt make any difference. Correct me if you think I am wrong but I see no harm in welding any bike frame. The thing to consider is you need a competent welder, I can weld to a good standard and have the paper to prove this, but I get our coded welder to weld bike frames as he is much better than me and has his work tested on a regular basis to prove he is as good as he should be. So dont be put off, jsut check all alignments and weld it on if you are really paranoid inspect it everyday after you have done it to prove its ok, but I feel it will be fine, just copy the way it would be done on a new frame
  6. In the bike factorys they have a jig that holds the frame in position and holds the bits you need to weld on, its easy if you have the stuff, I would try a few local frame builders as they should be able to do it. The main thing is it has to be in the correct place, if you can get a man on the moon tjis should be simple, measure twice, once more for look and weld Some US links here http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/framebuild.htm
  7. Good point what I should have said is upgrade to another bike and sell this on for what you paid.
  8. For £50 use it then uparde if you like it, it will allways be worth £50 so its free really as just sell it on when you have finsihed Wish I could find one for £50 LOL
  9. Some good points, looks like no one wants to risk it. The ovens I had dealings with stripped all kinds of frames, including from memory ally, ally melts at 660C, the oven ran at about 500C. We did all different qualitys of frame from cheap to Titanium. Details here http://www.pcpconline.com/wheres_the_fire.html Just thought we did check the alignment before any frame was painted so if it did distort it would be corrected, but I doubt any shops etc would have the equipment to do this Or you could just buy one http://www.pipe-bender-1.com/bicycle-frame-assembling-processing/07.htm
  10. I worked in the bike industry for a few years,now a few years ago, we sent everything out to be chemically stripped and then bought an oven which baked the paint until it burnt off the frame, it left the frame clean and slightly dusty. Its wasnt just like a big bonfire it burns it with no flames this is what a lot of people do as there is no pollution as the chimney has an after burner to burn any toxins, well thats the idea. You are 100% right with strippers but a good stripper wont want to damage your stuff so he should be able to advise you and be liable if he damages it Why not call the manufacturer and seek advice?
  11. professionals who do this either use enclosed tanks Like this http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/for-industry.html Or wear full protective equipment as a last resort. Nitromors is not the strongest compared to industrial strippers. I think the issue here is we are tryig to help some one who is having problems stripping a coating from a frame, in my experiance its far better to let a commercial stripper do this as they have access to far stronger chemicals and have the relavant experiance to strip it with out damage. All over the counter chemicals have been replaced or removed over the last few years due to increased health and safety. As I work in industry I know this for a fact where as your average man in the street just sees products dissapearing from the shelves. Personally I would just post it to a stripper as the cost would possibly be less than it would cost to buy the chemicals required. W had to get a few thousand frames stripped before we bought a machine to do it and we paid less than £1 each as they will fit on the conveyor system with other bits they are doing.
  12. It might be correct for the frame but it also needs to be the correct stuff for the coating applied to the frame Nitromors is possibly only available to professional strippers and no longer thought suitable for DIY use due to increased health and safety not just for the user but the environment
  13. I still think the stuff you are using is too weak or not correct for the stuff on the frame. Any Chrome platers near you? they usually have a stripping tank and could remove it in afew hours
  14. With the correct stuff it should come off first time, you have to be carefull using wire wool as you can get electrolitic reaction between the metals causing staining and corrosion, I would use a scotchbrite pad or pan scrubber.
  15. Not a bad point we get them for free at work so not bad for me. Our local £1 shop sells these We have a few for the kids for camping and they are very good and wouldnt be the end of the world if lost.
  16. What about a LED mag lite and a handle bar mount?
  17. Its all down to personal taste, I would imagine it would weight about 26Lbs. I like Flys some people dont, but its what works best for you, I feel they are good value and an underated bike as like so many things people follow trends and the manufacturers just want to sell you more stuff so they like to rubbish a product once its been out a few years so you will buy the next one. The thing I find interesting is the day our son took a cheap Mongoose to Rampworx, he still had a good day and did all the things he could on his £1000 Fly. We are all guilty at times of getting caught up with the latest shiny bit when really we should be out riding.
  18. Used to fix this stuff http://www.mach1.fr/machines/pages/operations.aspx?tp=1 So spent some time at a few different ones, seen some good seen some bad all come out of the same factorys
  19. Thats my idea thanks Just had a look a copy of the full DVD woudl be good for his Xmas stocking
  20. Thanks, Liverpool would be best as he dosnt want any one to see him till he can ride it LOL PM me your number
  21. Thanks,never thought of that, what a good idea
  22. Having spent two years working in Europs largest baike factory I feel I have an eye for quality. A few of the local lads have had issues with We the People but perhaps it was bad luck. I feel you shold buy second hand as its far better value. Asda do a BMX for £65????. I feel Fly Bikes are very good quality and often cheap as the Exchange rate (they are Spanish) keeps them expensive, and people havent heard of them as they make no cheap bikes. As my son loves tinkering with them I look out for good quality ones at the car boot. I bought this Premium Death Trap for £49 I didnt have a clue what brand it was but could tell it was quality as the bearings are all sealed and it is very light at 22lbs, the welds are good too. We rebrand any bikes we do up as Sababa ( its hebrew slang for Cool etc, aparantly it also has an Arabic meaning for unconditional love but still researching, its spelt wrong on this bike !) I recently sold this for £130 Bought from Ebay for £120 used for 6 months as a spare bike then sold again, it was very good as it had a sealed BB and wheels, but watch out as they do several different colours and specs some have lesser wheels on them. I feel ignore the brands and look at the quality, take Shimano, make some top quality stuff but the £65 bikes at Asda possibly have Shimano stuff on them. I will have a look on Ebay and see what catches my eye, one of the best ways to buy one is have a word with yur local BMXers I would buy this for no more than £150, the front chain ring is big but that wont be a problem, people are obsessed as they tell you it catches dropping in to bowls, well if it does you are doing it wrong, I proved this at Rampworks by asking a pro, he rode it no problem, but this could be changed at a later date but you would have to spend £150+ to get a better back wheel http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Custom-fly-pantera-bmx-/250939313173?pt=UK_Bikes_GL&hash=item3a6d260c15
  23. Quote I got a spare copy of tricks and stunts you could have cheap. Quote How much? Any one local to me who could spare a couple of hours? On gent for Liverpool Uni who lives in St.Helens has kindly offered, any one else? He wants to go to NewBrighton as he has seen people there
  24. Thanks Bought a second hand but like new Onza Bird, 20" wheels cable disc on front normal brake on the back. He is 12 but about 5ft 7" tall, been riding BMX for the last year. I will show him it on You Tube, were could I get the DVD? Oh whats a track stand???
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