ooo

This is a good article, that talks about what will happen financially (we loose money if we exit). Our markets and currency devalue massively. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/business/2016/06/14/ftse-100-slides-towards-6000-and-pound-falls-as-brexit-fears-dri/ Also I have heard some companies saying they will close in the UK or cut huge amount of jobs.

I agree, If we leave we need a plan of what to do, and I don't feel like we do have one. Plus a major point is we would essentially be placing a bet that the Euro wouldn't be a future trading currency of oil, and it's way to soon to place that bet. I have a (crazy) theory that we would end up partnering with USA with a unified currency if we leave. The US is likely to loose its status as the worlds reserve currency, lots of nations are moving against them with china selling off all their usd etc... I also heard that some of the middle east nations had a meeting to discuss trading oil in Euro,Yen and Renminbi. Also it is logical for the US to clear their huge debt by creating a new currency, so when the GBP fell in value as well then the UK would get so desperate that they will join the USA and form a new currency starting with a trade partnership. The value of the GBP falls every time it looks like public opinion says we will leave the EU. So it we would be forced to do it. Plus we don't use the Euro so we aren't really in Europe but we are at the same time. We have an unusually good position right now that means we can just move to the winning side, but we need to know who is going to win before we move.

cool video, will be great to see more.

I think its Zhao Xuan there's quite a few of his vids on youtube.

that diagram is lush by the way.

Yeah I'm pretty sure you have just turned the hub the wrong way for the spoke direction, the holes are offset slightly. you need to spin the hub the other way to lace it, if that makes sense. i've done it loads of times lol.

Frewheels are just annoying, using thick grease on the ball bearings helps them from going every where and you can wash it out after. Here is a video with someone opening one if thats any help:

I've not heard of metal being in there, but I would wash it out first and see if there is any metallic flakes in the dirt that comes out (usually a lot comes out). If it seems normal I wouldn't bother opening it, that gap is big enough for crap to get in and out of the freewheel though.

Not sure if this is what you are asking but, If you want to just clean the inside and remove all the grease, you can spray a light solvent type lubricant (like GT85 ) through the gap on the edge of the freewheel and it will wash any dirt and grease out.

@DeeDougie did you end up getting a bike dude ?

TNN used to make a reinforcing brace / insert. But even if you could find it, it would probably be too short. Maybe someone or tarty can make one for you that is long enough, then you just need to find the right type of glue. I'd personally just post it to tarty and get them to do it all for me.

The alu insert doesn't go down very far in mine, do you know which version you have ?, I don't think it will break instantly but depending on how big you go this sort of thing will happen (Although this one looked like it didn't have any insert at all):

lol

for the sidehop have you seen this thread ->

It's hard to know without seeing you do it, but there are four areas to look at. Position: if you are too close to the wall you won't be able to get high, the higher the wall the further away you need to be, you need to drop down on top of the wall not just ram at it otherwise you'll keep dropping the front when you get there. this picture may or may not help. Compression: you need to drop your front wheel (squat over your rear wheel) as much as possible, really bend your knees and try to touch your back wheel with your ass. Extension; jump as high as you can using your legs and thrust your pelvis forward, (your arms swing down but i think it feels passive and that its the legs that make the motion) and you will feel your handle bars hit you lap at the max. Tucking: to get the last bit of height you need to suck your knees to your chest and throw you arms up real high. The kick of the pedal doesn't contribute much IMO. The way to work it out is to film your self and see what you aren't doing properly. if you need to compress more try hovering on the back wheel and compressing as low as possible without the kicking part. If you struggle with tucking learning a static (not sure of the proper name) will help, at least it did for me, see this: static hop . The extension is just about how much you try to jump it, its all in the legs and hips. I found not thinking about the pedal kick and just trying to jump is what got me to get proper height and distance on stuff. Learning sidehops and the diagonal version of a sidehop i think its called a surge, helps loads too. Also for higher stuff people tend to use pedal ups, (rolling move version).

the neon looks mint

Oh yeah the tuck gets you higher too, I thought you were just asking about the twist, you can tuck without twisting as much. Danny's front wheel and back wheel cross the bar at the same time he is at almost 180 when he jumps. I have no idea which side is best to tuck on though, maybe it would be best to tuck on your normal 180 side because it would be easier to turn the bike 180 to get over the bar. The sidehop tuck is to do with getting the wheels as high as possible to plant them on the wall, its one of those centre of mass tricks, and not anything to do with bar jumping its just habit. They are already almost parallel with the bar so they don't have to turn much.

If Danny stayed straight he would have to keep the bike higher than the beam for the length of the bike. So by turning the bike its length become shorter so he doesn't have to keep it high for as long so it makes it easier to get high over a beam. How you bunny hop really depends on what you are doing, but you really need to be able to hop dead straight sometimes to. There is a more common way to turn for moves like whips and 180's but some people ride opposite. I think they usually turn towards the back foot side. Its more important to ride normal if you want to start doing barspins -360's.

yes the 19" rear allows for a larger tyre volume. This bike has a 19" rear.

Some people love those bikes. I wouldn't have thought it would affect you learning as it is modern enough, but that's just my opinion, if you want to get really compy you may want something different. But it would be great for riding trials around town. My main concern is "does stuff need replacing ?" because parts add up in price. I would probably pay £150 - 200 depending on condition and desperation to start riding. Whatever you start on you will sell on and get something different if you keep riding, but I think this bike is adequate. I have a general rule for buying second hand bikes, if the chain is rusty the bearing needs replacing (i.e. hubs, bottom bracket maybe head set will be ). But this bike may have been kept indoors so it will be in better condition. Also don't get into upgrading bikes that aren't that good to begin with.

@DK. The tube I use measures about 4mm ID.

Yes it should do. But you need to check that your source is pretty pure, like old style nail varnish remover has acetone in it; but it may also have other compounds that don't evaporate.

Mostly acetone (organic name propanone) I think.

If you mix it strong with warm water, you can wipe it on with a cloth, its comes off really easy. It's best to do it near a tap or have a jug of normal water because it looks best when it doesn't stay on too long.