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A Quad Core i5 will be fine on a Mac for learning Adobe Suite etc.. it won't be lighting fast but imo the extra money on a speed increase isn't worth it. I use a 2013 mb pro 13 (the cheapest one which is much slower than the one you put up I think) and multi task heavily with CS and the delays are manageable for me. I mainly use illustrator and After Effects. IMO save your money until you are really good at the packages or are using your mac to make money. Then you can buy another one with an even higher spec than you can get today. Also the relative difference between a 2011 mac and 2013 mac will be very small in 3 years time.

Im not into the look of monty's but the paint job on this really compliments the frame shape.

I was worried about that too, but it goes over anodised just fine, spray it on it thin coats a couple of minutes apart and it will cover anything. As for durability, I can't guarantee anything, but looking at the cars people have done, yes it will stay on and won't damage paint work / anodizing. It may have trouble on parts of the bike which get a lot rubbing, such as cranks. But then paint has the same problem. A simple solution is to put a piece of clear sticky back vinyl on it. I vinyl wrapped my cranks a few months ago and its still going strong and stops my shoes from going black.

Just clean the bike thats it, no sanding at all the stuff is mega sticky, I sprayed over paper and vinyl stickers in parts because of laziness. You could paint strip it if you wanted first (maybe to save weight?), but part of the beauty is that you can peel it off at anytime and go back to your original paint work.

I used just under one can, its expensive at about £18 but if you were using primer and stripper etc and a normal paint job its pretty good deal, plus its so much quicker to do and covers plastic and rubber easily. Check out the range of colours here: http://www.plastidip.co.uk/eStore/index.cfm?type=Home_Solutions/PlastiDip&stage=1&menu=0 I got mine from here: http://www.matt-pack.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=81 You can get cans on ebay too, I've heard its best to stay with official plastidip not imitations as well.

If you don't know what plastidip is look it up on youtube. Ive been thinking about Plastidipping my car for a while now, and thought I would test it out on my bike. I've wanted to go matte but using normal paint + stripping, cleaning, primer and waiting for coats to dry etc is just way too long. Plastidip covers everything and this took me a couple of hours to do in total. Its way easier to spray that normal paint and isn't any where near as fussy about what it goes over. Its tough and removable, its very difficult to scratch but if you get underneath it you can just roll it off with your fingers. It wil go over platistic and metal with little prep, but Im yet to find out how it fares with rubbing and riding, it is very easy to touch up though. If anyone wants to go matte without damaging their original paint finish, or if you want to change colour quickly because you are a bit bored, I would definitely recommend it. I only used one can to do the whole lot, and its pretty well covered. Although I was painting black on black it made it easier to hide thin patches. The colours are a bit limited, but they do have neons and some special finishes such as gloss and metallic. Also Ive heard that if you use the primer the rubber isn't removable, but not sure. Also please excuse my crazy front brake cable, scabby grips (I like em like that) and stem stacker area, I'm experimenting with heights before I set it up properly. Before Pics: Masking: I masked the bb7's moving shaft and internal slots with pads removed (incase anyone's wondering) Spraying: I also did the back of the slaves, hopefully it will last a bit. Also did the plastic seat... Took outside for a few photos, its not setup properly, but once its setup I'll ride it right away so it won't be this clean again:

You might be able to run 18-13 tensionerless on an element if it has 385mm chainstays ??? or maybe the chain would be a tiny bit to slack??? see the chart below. I run 18-14 on a mk1 fourplay with just a tiny bit of filing (380mm chainstay). Courtesy of Tartybikes gear ratio chainstay length.JPG

winstanleys have white 24" pimps http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/30408/Atomlab_Pimp_24Inch_Rim_2009 if you want to go extra pimp. http://www.freeborn.co.uk/ have black ones tooo.

I actually think its cool for Onza to copy the geo because they usually make something much cheaper which is great as there are plenty of people who can't spend 450 on a new frame. But copying the frame and going for a similar price point without all the work and testing that inspired put in sucks.

Yeah get one, and sleep in it. That way you can chuck your bed out and have more floor space to practice dance moves.

He's such a legend, looked like he was off to school at the beginning ha ha. The tiny bmx was well funny too.

What everyone else said + If you really aren't sure what you want, maybe get a cheaper second hand bike and ride if for 6 months and then decide. Get a cheap onza zoot or fourplay second hand. Choosing a bike is much easier when you have some experience. In 6 months you may not want to ride trials, just jumps or the other way round. Your other option is just to post in the wanted section. There may be some 26 inspireds or marinos suitable for you. The ns bike you mentioned is good but not suitable for trials, trials is so difficult and takes so long to learn I think for most people it would just be unrealistic. -Riding DJ on a street trials bike is easier than riding trials on a DJ bike. -The NS doesn't have a front brake or disc compatible hub (you will have to build a new wheel and get a front brake) - The rear brake can probably be used for the front, but you will need a decent hydraulic rear. -The bb is stupidly low -The gear ratio is wrong -The seat tube is really high and will smack you in the balls everyday. -The rims are Fundamentals - they will fold like aluminium foil on badly executed trials moves. -The NS only has 24 engagements on the freehub compared to the elements 72. -The rear triangle is designed to support pedal kicks with a rear disc brake. -NS full builds dont use the same high quality frame build techniques as the separate frame. Where as the element does. -Plus if its just table tops you want to ride, thats not even really DJ.

These are the ones I had, the flat fronts are the older ones. Notice the backs have a zig-zag pattern, thats what i meant by CNC but i am not sure if they are actually CNC. The cheaper Try-All ones have a scoop line same as the trialtechs and echo forged cranks. As they are £30 Im guessing that they are the expert ones below, which is only £10 less, so I would be fairly confident that they were genuine. http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/cranks_pair/tryall_expert_isis/c514p11216.html http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/cranks_pair/tryall_isis/c514p52.html

I had my trialtechs helicoiled and it lasted about an hour, I guess it works for other people. From my experience I think new cranks is cheaper in the long run, so don't worry about buying them.

There are some that are forged and the more expensive CNC ones too, the CNC ones now have a different graphic / surface pattern and come in silver. I used to have some CNC ones in black that looked like the ones in the picture. I guess they are made in china anyway, some counterfeit stuff is made in the same factory illegally or in a near by factory using the same designs stolen from the original factory by the guy employed to make them. They just don't bother with the Quality control check to save money. But I don't think that helps, you may not even get the ones in the picture.... also the forged ones are only £40 in UK from tarty

The element frame is strong in a different way to a park bike. Park bikes are quite popular in cromo because they are good for being thrown and dropped. As the element is aluminium is wont be so good in that way, but it is a very strong frame in the rear triangle which needs to be stiffer and stronger than a street mtb. Its quite rare to see people with broken inspireds and they are very well made. One thing to note is that it is more difficult to manual an element than a street mtb frame, because its geo is designed to do trials moves as well. So if you aren't going to do any trials it will make the rest of your riding more difficult for no reason. However most of it is about your environment, if you live in a town with lots of features the element will be loads better because; there are a lot more moves you can do in street trials which means; more obstacles are ridable making the town you live in much more fun. Also if there are a lot of trials riders in your town it will be better. If you have great skateparks near you and foam pits get a park bike. If you live in country village with no street to ride but you have massive DJ's 5mins down the road, get a dirt bike.

Some people run 22-15 on inspireds, the stock element is 22-16 if you go heavier than 22-14 you won't be able to pedal kick unless you have incredible hulk legs. (Pure trials is equivalent of 22-17). The element is already setup for street, if you go anymore 'street mtb' you won't be able to do the trials moves unless you are some sort of beast. If you get street mtb it will have a lower bottom bracket and heavy ratio and will be only be good for the sort of riding you see street mtb guys doing, 360's, wall rides, manuals and bunny hops (like a big bmx). If you want to ride street mtb style without any trials moves at all, get a street mtb frame. DMR's are more for dirt, get a street/park frame like ns majesty park, capital or dartmoor make great frame too. If you want to ride street trials, get an element ride it for a few months and then decide if you want to up the ratio.

If you want to make android apps there are some simpler ways as tomturd says, but if you want to make anything decent or with decent functionality you will need to learn Java for Android. Shortcuts will mean you take longer to learn the good stuff. Scripting and structured languages are very different to object orientated languages in terms of development. A lot of people find it harder to learn OO languages if they learn structured code first. Java theory is the same for Android, however the lifecycle, environment and libraries are very different. Android is easy to learn as a first language and I think its more fun because phones have so many features to access. I would start directly with android, get eclipse and setup android sdk plug your phone in and run a hello world, then go back and do the java tutorials and try to juggle both so that you can relate the information across. Google documentation is brilliant, browse through the tutorials and familiarise yourself with all the components in the left hand bar just so you know what is possible in android development. http://developer.android.com/training/index.html Once you have followed a couple of tutorials you can look further at the meaning of the Java syntax and OO theory. The course below is the sort to follow, it teaches the theory each concept becomes like a lego brick that you can stick with other parts to solve problems. The course you showed is also similar, but the end bit is missing so may only be helpful up to a point. http://www.javatutorialhub.com/java-tutorial.html If you are interested in game programming there are better routes.

Can't compare same wheel size but when i went from mod to 24 street I found I had to lean back more. Think about standing completely straight mid-air with your bars on your lap. Higher bb will put your wheel more forward, lower bb put your rear wheel more behind you; so you have to lean back to land, making you feel more unstable on high pedal ups. Higher stack will put your rear wheel even further back and will also mean you have to lean back earlier for the pedal up to avoid the front wheel hitting. Higher bb and lower stack means higher pedal ups, while feeling more comfortable and less likely to loop out on landing. Even though a pure trials geo should be better for going higher, I don't think it makes it any easier. You may have just got into the habit of using the bunny hopping motion to get to rear which is easier on the shorter cockpit, whereas a pure frame needs some other variation of the motion, probably more upward jump.

Everything he does is huge, looking forward to more.

I find on bikes with different bb heights its a different angle that you have to lean back at / different motion to pull up the front wheel. On my dirt bike i have to pull back then up, on my fourplay just jump up and kick the rear wheel underneath you, (its a lot less effort to get into a vertical position than a dirt bike). As for manuals they are a lot harder on the higher bb bikes, there is a much shorter range between front wheel of the floor and looping out. You basically have to be almost stood up to manual them, where as on a 4x bike you can be almost sat down. I can manual my dirt bike easily and its just locks into the position, I still struggle getting a metre out of my fourplay. Running a shorter stem and high bars will make streety moves easier and the Zoot more comfortable / fun, I run a 70mm (but some people prefer 90mm) Element is pretty similar to some Zoots, both Onza and Inspired change their geo across years and models, at some point there is an overlap but i can't remember where. I don't think the 10mm wheelbase will greatly change your ability for trials at this point, although I have heard the zoot forks are heavy (may or may not be true for your model). Just keep trying, its a different geo and needs different body language, you will find the sweet spot.

Does anyone ride Salisbury? Is there stuff to ride there ? I'm thinking about driving up for a ride, it's only about 40mins away.

has it ever been okay ? have you tried changing the strings ?

CRC is good because its free to send back if it doesn't fit. It can take a fair bit of looking around to find a good fit, depending on your head shape. Make sure you get a good fit even if it costs you more. winstanleysbikes.co.uk is usually pretty cheap on helmets too though.

Wheel size doesn't affect cockpit size on these two frames, the bigger wheeled frame won't be bigger sized. The 26 just has 5mm more on chain stay and longer wheel base. Big wheels hold momentum better over rough terrain. 24 is more nimble so good for streety moves. Its more of a riding style decision.