ooo

good riding and nicely filmed...

Are you running a tensioner ? AFAIK if you use a single wheel tensioner with a small rear cog it will skip. pics ???

Vimeo Video -> Original Video

I just recently found out how to do it, when you press the SpecialBB Code button and select vimeo just enter the number in the content box 71875009 not the full vimeo link, that will give you syntax like this (without the space after the slash): [vimeo]71875009[/ vimeo]

loving your edits!

Hittle X Albion In Southern England Vimeo Video -> Original Video

There is a Trials instructional video by 'Ryan Leech' called 'mastering the art of trials'. You can usually find dodgy copies uploaded around the web if you use google video search. Or if you want a high quality copy its only $7 (£5) from his website http://shop.ryanleech.com/collections/bike-videos/products/mastering-the-art-of-trials

awesome riding, really smooth

Grant Castelluzzo & Mike Hinkens in Chick'n Nugg't

Great vid! everything went together really well.

Federal BMX Stevie Churchill 2013 Some amazing UK riding in here:

I puncture a alot as I'm not a smooth rider. I run 60 psi for street its much better for spins and speed, but Im not very trialsy. Try getting a 3 inch downhill tube, even saying that there is a big difference in wall thickness between different downhill tubes. I have some really thick ones but I cant remember who make them other downhill tubes aren't even half as thick. If those things don't help use a DMR Moto RT 2.4, its thicker and much heavier than a holy roller and feels much nicer to ride in my opinion (gripper and much more pop, rolls and corners nicer too).

I understand that most of us ride in an irregular way, its harder to quantify your intensity than with a sport like running. But its really just listening to your body, if you ride once a week for an hour now, going to 3 hours four times a week next week will hurt much worse and leave you more prone to injury. So increase you pace slowly, if you want to ride more often shorten your ride or do less at first then build it up and listen to your body. During you ride do dynamic stretches like swinging and shaking it out, take brakes in between physically demanding tasks , don't just bang out a difficult move like 100 times in a row, rest in between. If you decide to ride more regularly (a physical stress activity) counter act it with having more physical relaxation in your life, rest more and eat more, stretch more etc... As for stretches on upper body, stretch anything that is tight, usually it will be forearms hands, chest, front deltoids, lats, triceps. But avoid static/passive stretches before warming up fully as they damage muscle fibres. I can post some dynamic stretches if you let me know what parts of your body are problematic. What you do depends on what you find hurts now, where are you sore ? The more you lifestyle is like an athlete, the more your body will perform like an athlete.

Training soreness in any sport is reduced by, try any of them you can: - eating clean/healthy food regularly - train shorter (not to exhaustion) and training with regularity - increase intensity by only 10% per week - warming up slowly and using dynamic stretches at the start - staying hydrated (using electrolytes too will help) - use static stretches after exercise - removing metabolic waste products from muscles after training, use a foam roller or very cold bath/ ice packs.

I understand that you have limited access to trials specific parts and bikes, but there isn't loads you can do to setup that bike for 'pure' trials. However you can learn a lot of street mtb and do more of the old school trials. I think it is best to use that bike for what it is good for as you can do alot on that, there is loads of fun to be had. Firstly keep suspension forks on it, they are much longer which means if you put rigid forks on; the pedals on the bike will be too low (low bb) this will make doing any tricks difficult. As for bars what ever is comfortable for you. I would personally keep a short stem on that bike as it will make it better for streety moves. I think you should make sure you have the right ratios on your gears and know which gearing to use for trialsy stuff. Then also try and get the best rear brake you can. Look up more of these guys videos, if you havent seen them before: and this one:

yeah, easiest way i found to learn was to do pedal wheelies first. These are similar to pedal kicks but there is no hop or jump motion, your rear wheel does not leave the ground. Lift your front wheel so that you are balancing on your rear wheel with the brake on. When you feel balanced, gently lift your rear brake (not fully just enough to let the wheel slip) and push your good foot down on the pedal. Re-apply the rear brake fully. This will give you a very small wheelie motion, all you are doing is letting the wheel slip a little. If you keep doing this you will learn your balance points and will be able to push harder and release the brake fully. Then you can start jumping to hit your pedal and you have a pedal kick!. With most moves you just need to start really really small. There was a video of this, but I can't find it.

There a few riders, but I don't think many of them ride Bournemouth or ride regularly. There are a couple of us who ride around Bournemouth and Poole weekly though and you are welcome to join us, send me a PM. Make sure it this FB group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/251876548219260/

It should be brilliant as it is, inspired are great bikes problems are pretty rare and tartybikes provide really good service. To start all you will need is a set of allen keys, a puncture repair kit and a tyre pump. At some point you may decide to upgrade a couple of small bits, but I would leave it as it is for at least 3-4 months of riding. Brake pads may be helpful, i don't know what come with the element but I imagine inspired have selected something suitable. I couldn't tell you what is best for that setup either. Tartybikes will be able to suggest a good pad if you are in a hurry, or read this thread: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/179023-best-cnc-backed-pads-for-a-smooth-rim/?hl=%2Bbest+%2Bpads+%2Bsmooth+%2Brim whats the weather like where you live?

That bike is a good bike to start with for street stuff. Its the older frame 2009-2010 and it doesn't have inspired forks. A lot of the components appear in very good condition, and a well looked after bike counts for a lot, you can ride and not worry about fixing stuff. However that bike in UK would fetch half of that price I think. So buying from UK and paying the extra postage may be a better option. Obviously if there are less of these bikes about in Finland it may push the price up. Bear in mind that you could get an element which is almost the same geo new from uk: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/special_offers/inspired_element_24_inch_exdemo/c164p11695.html I dont know how much your budget is, but a 2011 or 2013 Fourplay full build second hand usually go for about £750 +/- in the UK, so also consider this.

Its worth spending some time on the forum, search for Onza Zoot threads, theres generally a lot of discussion about pros and cons of them. Some people seem to say they snap and other seems to ride them happily. how much do you weigh ? As you like the Danny Mac stuff, stick to looking for a street bike, a Zoot or an Inspired fourplay will be a suitable choice. You may be able to find a 2009-2010 fourplay at a reasonable price £300-400+ (cheaper than a new zoot). A dirt bike is very different to a trials bike although they may appear similar to the casual observer, it will be much more difficult to ride trials on a dirt bike. As for maintenance you will need to learn, I find they take a lot of attention, not necessarily replacing parts but trials riding is very stressful on the bikes and they need lots of tlc and to be checked regularly or parts will break / you will get injured. A regular bike shop probably won't have the knowledge or care to understand the hardships a trials bike goes through or that you may be doing dangerous things on it. The order in which to learn moves is pretty simple, but is open to a lot of choice after a few months: http://rutube.ru/video/5e6eb2ed114f6e3bb2fc04625ff3fd79/ http://www.trashzen.com/

Normally you'll have to smash it quite hard, just get it setup on a bench in such a way that you wont damage any part of it during the smashing. But maybe if it snapped it could be a bit bent and this is making it harder ?

Is this a street bike? Pumping up your tyres will get you places much faster, and you can just let the air out when you get to the spot you want (if you run low pressures). Obviously getting home is still slow. But you will get used to getting about with the low ratio though, its much better to just ride it the way people normally set them up until you have most of the moves down and are confident otherwise you may inadvertently hinder your progress by trying to mess with the gear ratio (its quite important).

Taking a week off really helps. Also think about the top 3 moves you do and the obstacles you ride most, and then ban yourself from doing them for 4 weeks. Try watching vids of other stuff, bmx, street mtb, old skool street trials etc...

very cool video, really well made.

Welcome to Eclat Stevie Churchill