trials hoe

i can take the lever off no problem, i'm not sure there is enough material to lever against to undo it. i don't want to end up taking the whole head off it, then i'll be f**ked

right so i've just gone dual maggie, and went to undo the bolt to bleed it and it went all gay and rounded its self....... bolt is exactly as per the old pic below - any ideas how i can get this out? i doubt cutting a slot into the head will do the job and the bolt head is on an angle so i cant whip the lever off and grip it in the vice any help would be much appreciated guys chris

snaked

i wasn't saying a heavy bike is going to be ropey and shit, it was in reference to dr stix saying he'd rather spend more money on an mtb/roadie than a trials bike imo a bike you spent as little money on as you possibly could is more likely to feel that way (granted a well maintained bike will always feel nice to ride)

we have a polar opposite approach to trials, i'm remotely better than shit and ride to stop me getting fat and decrepit rather than to good at it as it's the only sport i can enjoy/be arsed doing without getting bored after 10mins of it. i'd rather have a nice bike than a ropey shit one personally, i'd also spend my cash the other way around to how you would haha. but everyone's different and i was in no way suggesting that you shouldn't have an opinion...maybe i was secretly offended at the fact i'm shit and have carbons on my rig

the bike you ride should in no way represent your level of riding, anyone can spend their cash on/modify what they want. you're saying even a beginner shouldn't go and buy a top spec sky with carbon/ti goodies if that's what they want? granted it might be a 'waste' given their ability, but its not your money they'd be spending...

won't make you worse either.....

that's not a particularly light tyre, geax barro race is 380g and i saw another that was 285g but it was 120 quid!!! also interested to see the holes you drilled in the echo cranks too.....or are they the older sl's? edit : tyre weights are assuming its a stock*

drill lots of big holes in stuff! like i did with the front rim on mine saved 134g

bigger taps are damn expensive, likely to be 40 quid and upwards for a set. you could prob get away with just buying a second tap, but a starnut will be way cheaper option as tapping it wont be gaurenteed. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HSS-Tap-M18-x-1-18mm-/360615766967#vi-content

are you using the right diameter starnut? if its the bigger diameter one the things could be bending too far and weakening so they snap maybe? or run a tap down the steerer see if you can't rescue the threads.

tar

i used a generic tube in the front and a maxxis dh in the rear with no issues (on an echo 24 though), if you want something extra thick halo extra safe is 3mm iirc also kenda (i think) do a 'thorn-proof' 4mm thick one. never used the halo or kenda ones but i bet they weigh a ton hahaha

I used a file to straighten mine up a bit ago, filing is good for taking the surface off (if you're running a smooth rim shit get pressed into the face of the pad), but it took forever to do a tiny amount and the pad got more and more grippy to the file the warmer the it got. Tried a hacksaw with the pad clamped in a vice? making sure to mark it up nice and straight and cut equally straight orbital sander? edit - this will be the best method imo, on the ball again Mr ghost .......assuming he has one that is.

So I just stuck a new tyre on the back (super tacky high roller) and I'm a bit spoiled for grip as it is, but I'm wondering if there would be a benefit from running it the opposite way round to the stated rotation direction specified on the sidewall with regards to maximizing the level of grip? The way I look at it, tyres have a designated directional rotation pattern so they can 'cut' through loose or muddy surfaces and shed any material caught in the tread while also minimizing rolling resitance. with trials muddy/sandy ect. surfaces are like the mortal enemy (to me anyway, i avoid them like the plague) and practicality is an area ignored with the whole trails scene, so a specific rotational direction becomes a moot point right? Using an example the tryall stickys have a tread pattern the other way round to a conventional tyre, with 'normal' tyres like this /\ and the stickys like this \/ as you look down on the tyre from above....if you get what I mean I've been wondering about this and the advantage (if there was to be one) will only me marginal, but every little advantage is always going to be a good thing anyway, so anybody else had this thought? chris

we're aiming to arrive at 11 (ish, so long as the train stays on time), about a 5-10 min ride to moonrocks from there soooo just after 11 at start of moonrocks good for everyone?

looking like sunday is the day to be there for us, where's the best place to meet? we'll be coming on the train if that helps

as in rotor is too big?

are hope calipers a slightly different offset to most? or is it the disc flange on their hubs? either way caliper shims are what i used to get mine right like washers really just at a set thickness. edit - i got these http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=356

so does tramadol, both opiates something they're noted for. tramadol does the job, but you end up feeling like shit a few days after you start taking 'em. try and blag you doc into giving you some fentanyl, my old boss had some for a herniated disc some mental stuff that is.

as far as i'm aware either day is good for us, so whichever day is good for y'all to get a decent turnout is all good

sounds good people , what day is best for everyone?

yeah, so a few of us are planning to take a trip to blackpool (weather permitting) next weekend. anybody else up for this? a few locals would be nice too, always good to be riding with someone who knows their way around no definite day yet, thought we'd see whats best for everyone else first chris