trials hoe

you should sell me one of your many sets of carbons your hoarding

so here it is! i'm almost satisfied with it just needs a few flash bits to finnish it off, some hose shortening will have to be done too but its together and thats what matters spec - frame - echo trial 2011 (135mm spacing) forks - old skool urbans (stock 4 bolt mounts cut off) headset - crank bros. sage fr stem - onza rip? (160mm x 35* by my measurnig stick) bars - rockman rock bars silver (13*up 9*back) with tt foams front wheel - echo tr disc hub on neon 2012 singlewall rim (4 cross disc side 2 cross non disc side) front tyre - schwalbe blackjack 2.1 (pleasantly suprised by this so far) with a generic tube rear wheel - echo tr non disc on neon singlewall (3 cross both sides) rear tyre - scwalbe space 2.35 with a nokian dh tube cranks - try-all expert 175mm isis ffw - echo 108 sprocket - echo tr 14t bash - neon cnc half ring peadls - echo tr cage front brake - echo tr lever on old xt 4 pot with clacks organic pads (180mm rotor) rear brake - echo tr with lgm's in tnn cnc backings on gu mounts think thats it..... more pics requests are cool too and finally a big thanks to all those that contributed by selling me stuff cheers and enjoy.

WHAT!? why didn't you file the cranks down first? filing down a frame is asking for trouble

i have one kicking about and it measures 535mm for me. edit - the stock one

everybody sounds right to me, will give this a go. cheers guys!

i bled mine down just quick last night, and the bleed bolts (on the lever) pissed out first time i pressed the lever sorted with copper washers and a maggie bolt on the slave's bleed bolt. think they still make the sl's, sure i saw some on a site somewhere but they're mad expensive. as for being spongy i'd put that down to a iffy bleed, oh and the levers sit too close to the bars too. other than that they feel nice

right so i finaly got everything together, bled my brakes down (tr levers) and they feel like they're too close to the bars, even for my stubby fingers. the grub screw reach adjusters are undone but i'd prefer them further away, i had the thought to file down the face that contacts the body (where the reach adjusters sit) to gain a bit of disatnce. has anyone else had this issue and rectified it? also would it work? (i haven't took the levers apart so i don't know if there will be any other parts that would need to modded) crude writing in the pic says it all, cheers

there's an absurd amount of maths that goes into making a frame, make sure all your jig measurements are spot-on otherwise anything you make using it will be wonky. as with anything you make measure, measure, measure, untill your sick of measuring and measure it again. i'd have a go at making all sorts if i had the tooling to do-so, good luck with the project dude

cheers guys exacly what i wanted to hear! i wouldn't have considered a grider, its a tad overkill for the job and i prefer hand tools. i was hoping that removing them would help with stress distribution along the leg, rather than it 'gathering' at the mounts. hope that makes sence it does to me anyway haha

right, so i have just aquired some oldskool disc and 4 bolt (stock, front mount) urbans for my 24. ill be running a disc on the front, so the mounts are redundant and they look shit just there on the forks unused. so my questions are - has anyone had any issues after doing so? and, will i gain any strength advantage/disadvantage removing them? (seen forks crack above the mounts but i don't know if that is down to a maggie setup being used) also any info on methods used would be nice, i plan on hacksawing them off and filing down 'till they are smooth. cheers in advance guys

14kilo!?!? i got my control down to 9.2kg with off the shelf bits... liking the black on black though

just seemed like the right way to do it realy,you could use clear hose on a barbed fitting too. just nip up the res cover to stop the flow when switching to the bolt.

if your giving the maggie bolt a go, empty the system and bleed from the caliper up untill you see fluid in the lever res, nip the cover up on the res and then tighten the bolt up on the caliper end (worst case senario is a bit of fluid flows back out through the caliper) then top up the res accordingly. this worked for me when i did it with mine also giving everything a good lot of tapping help loosen up any tiny bubbles too as said above.

is the bleed nipple letting air seep back in? have you tryed a bolt rather than the bleed nipple? (maggie slave bleed bolt things fit) when i got the pistons out of my mono mini (using a foot pump) the rubber seal poped off the top of the nipple, so some air got past it, could be worth a try.

addiction is addiction, but if something is psychologically addicve means you won't get any physical withdrawls - shakes ect.

been doing it to me for a while, its worse if you typed out a long post with pics and it diddn't autosave the content....... its easier to type it wrong then edit it haha.

guess breath forks are one to avoid then......... did you escape without injury?

word. get cluch control dialed and get used to driving a car, or an instructor may see you as a cash cow and take the piss. as for a car, i payed 75 quid for my first.........

if your due any tax back you'll get it at the end of the tax year (april) or you will have to apply for it back then, tax is a bitch and you may have to chase them to the end of the earth to get it. or complain to your boss about it enough and he may be able to do something about it. do an intensive course, it'll cost more but its done sooner rather than later. otherwise it ends up dragged out for ages, and don't forget your theory too.

i've yet to see you on your because dude

f**king ace

ill be out next week dude..............when i've put the echo together

stealthy goodness......like it a LOT! are those the born cranks that weigh around the 300g mark?

rude, and i'm not a lass either. those threads were bullshit it was like every post was from a different conversation.

thats my mind changed then haha urbans for me it is