trials hoe

build in situe and use a zip tie to mark where it should be, start tightening the spokes at the high spot bit by bit and it kinda does its self. i also do a lot of measuring and spinning of the wheel while getting tension in the spokes. so long as you dont go wacking a load of tension in one spoke its should be reasonably straight forward once you have you head round the whole thing. slow and steady wins the race, this certainly applies to wheel building for me

i bet he writes a book about how he was a cheating fanny and got away with it......................................almost.

+1 for building your own wheels. i build all my own and taught myself, thoroughly satisfying and i like the peace of mind that i 'just know'. not knocking wheel builds from other places here, but its cheaper and no waiting or relying on someone to do it for you too!

looks funky but i doubt it'll take a heavy riding, nothing wrong with having a go though. if only he gone and made it shaft driven too...............

so removing it = better that having it, what i was we are saying.

done very well for a first go there dude but if the flex properties are the same along the whole tube, making the transition of flex equal. then surely it would be better than having a small section that is stiffer effectively making it 3 different sections with 3 lots of different flex properties (taking into account the length difference of the tubing to)

doesn't the weld affect the area directly either side of said weld? with the different flex properties of the two surfaces that causes a weak point. looks good, nice work! shame about the little bit of a raw patch though, you gonna paint it to match or raw the frame? or neither

not overly keen on the arched back look the frame has, was a lower stand over height not an option? or would that have caused chain rub issues with the 'seat'stay? does look sweet though! have agree with this. you only running the ss setup rather than a two speed? i'd ditch the r/mech tensioner setup if you are edit - i don't mean it to sound as rude as i'm coming across here (A)

WOOOOOOOOOOOOW glad i do all my own work on my bike, think an untrained chimp with a serious head wound is more capable than most bike shops. i've never had an issue getting a sprocket off either, using a chain whip and a small vice. 50 quid for a wheel build is a bit steep too, i'd be giving them some serious shit if i was your mate for ripping him off.

trialsaddict has them, not cheap though.

the hs22 to. i remember the hs11's from the 04 era, they were absolute gash and made of plastic.

doesn't it affect the frame in the same way 4 bolt mounts affect forks? ie. a place for crack to start.

green frog, blue and orange too. there was only one 'special edition' version i can think was the black cylinders and gold levers, olympia i think?. all the others were different colours just with fancy names, i could be wrong though.

as above all hs series maggies are hydraulic, they came in 'editions' like tomac (red) raceline (yellow) ect. but its just colour they're all the same underneath.

tried to see how the pads fit in other slaves? try wrapping a layer of tape round the peg/fork/whatever they're called bits that the pad sits against in the slaves maybe? this is the kind of niggly thing that would really piss me off if it was my bike.

like it might have to build mine up if i can do it mega cheap, not losing my 24.

ano'd finish steerer causing it to slip? could try sanding it off see if it grips the bare metal better.

if this ( http://www.homebase.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=110&storeId=10151&partNumber=715653 ) works as well as the stuff in the vid it could be worth a go even though its different stuff. not cheap either, the brush on stuff says 'works for up to 24hours' which probably means leave for at least 24 hours. the new stuff is certainly shit.

don't the tr ones fit? edit - http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/rim_brake_spares/echo_tr_brake_lever_spares/c5p11795.html

FULL CARBON WEIGHT: 550 GRAMS LENGHT: 370 ADVANCE +40 MM STANDARD DISC BRAKE FOR AXLE 10 MM sounds like mod fork geo to me, guessing 'length' is referring to a cr measurement somebody needs to make some disc only stock carbons!

dual disc would be bang on there dude is the last pic haunted? look at all those orbs

seriously f**king nice! not feeling the ti fw for some reason, think a black one would have fitted better colour scheme wise. then again i'd have one if i could justify the cost . also what have you used as rim tape? liking the satin finish. edit - weighted it yet?

getting rid of threads on cranks is the way forward, but they should make a universal spline pattern so you have the option to mix and match brands. assuming all the manufacturers decided to go splined.