Sam Song

I think you would be better suited to a 24 inch bike, but you could definitely make it work with a Hex! I would try going for a shorter stem and a lower bar. If you are still going through a puberty age, there is still a chance you may grow too.

If you bought the cracks for the link you provided, the bb should be included with the sale

For other guys possibly doing this, it is Chris King Threadfit 30 fitting 3 to be used with Eewings. And Inspired will be releasing Canecreek Eewings bashring soon. The existing Truvative Inspired bash is NOT compatible with Eewings cranks.

Cranks: Look through your local classifieds/FB Marketplace for used Sram/Truvative DUB cranks. There should be some MTBers selling them usually. Tube: This one you CAN go to Aliexpress from. Aliexpress "Ridenow" TPU tubes are excellent and lighter and cheaper than Tubolito tubes. Rims: If you could stretch your budget a little more, Carbon rims from Light Bicycle would be the best. They are light, strong, and tubeless compatible to be run with an insert in the back. If you are doing another wheel build, use alloy nipples and bladed spokes for extra weight savings.

Has anyone tried using the Chris King Threadfit 30 with Cane Creek Eewings MTB cranks? I was using Chris King Threadfit 30 with fitting #3 for Sram Dub cranks currently and the Cane Creek Eewings spindle is a tiny bit too thick for it to fit through the Chris King BB fitting. Any idea how to fit it? Also, would the Inspired Bashring 22T sprocket combo work with Cane Creek Eewings? I see it being used with Inspired Team build kits but the description says the bashring combo is a custom part for the Cane Creek cranks.

Yes, I forgot to mention. Adjusting the reach to further out definitely helps but I find the rear brake to be noticeably softer and engaging closer to the bar still.

I have been riding a Norco Manifesto street trials bike for a couple years. And since then I have gone through many fancy disc brakes, but only to finally settle with the Avid BBDB mechanical disc brake released over 20 years ago. Brakes I have tried - Saint M820 - "Shigura" with Magura caliper and Shimano lever - TRP DHR Evo All those brakes in the front felt great. In the back however, there were a couple issues being: - The rear brake feeling softer than front - The rear lever engagement not being far enough from the bar, even with a fresh bleed. I understand that the hose will expand more for the longer rear brake hose length, but it was always cut to the shortest length possible. And the even if I added as much fluid as possible in the back brake with the pads pushed out + using a thinner bleed block, I could not get the rear brake to engage at the same spot as the front brake, with the rear brake engaging closer to the bar. Though the brakes were still useable, the discrepancy between the front and the rear brake could not be unnoticed. Any of you feel the same way with hydraulic disc brakes? Or am I being too sensitive? With my Avid BBDB mechanical, the discrepancy between the front and the rear brake is not as noticeable as with hydraulic brakes.

Norco Manifesto w/ Manitou Circus Expert forks, carbon rims, carbon cranks. 24lbs. The frame is quite heavy with steel. Lol

I may be in the minority but I wish Inspired still adds a rear rim brake mount along with the rear disk mount for their frames. It should not add much weight; and rear rim brakes do not require the frame bracing to the extent necessary for a rear disk mount. Especially Inspired's 26 inch frames, they are the most trials oriented. Nowadays, there is barely any option for a street geometry with a rear rim mount unless you go old school.

Thanks for the tips! I am enjoying seeing your videos time to time. The point you make about full commitment is really important. You really get your worst injuries. I would also add learning to read your body and when to just go home or play it safe. When I injured myself, I knew I wasn't in the best condition but instead of just going home I just tried one more move. And that is when I got my injury.

You make a good point Albert. I will keep the safe progression in mind. Let's get together for a ride sometime when I get better!

I am sitting in my room after a botched attempt at learning a bunny hop 180 and having twisted my right knee. Although I haven't broken any bone, there may be some ligament injury. I seem to get my worst injuries from doing spin moves, (since I have never been good at them). Although trials can be quite dangerous, I never got many serious injuries doing a traditional pogo trials riding since there is very little speed; and the movements are in a single linear plane with little to no rotational forces involved. Although I fortunately have a job with paid sick time; and I always have topped off overtime banked vacation hours to use, I do not want to risk getting serious injuries that could affect my longevity to ride trials bikes, or for activities outside of biking, especially at my age of 30. I am almost considering making a conscious decision not to learn spin moves to reduce my chance of getting injuries. There are other aspects of riding I could improve on and still have fun. Even within my small riding social circle, I have friends who have injured their back, or ankle and knee sprains from doing the rotation moves. Any of you made the similar decision to not do certain moves so that you can ride for longer?

I am looking forward to trying this!

To be fair, last time it broke, I had upsized the rear rotor to 203mm then it broke on the first ride. I had actually ridden the bike perfectly fine for months on a 180mm rear rotor. The second time, I had downsized the rear rotor to 180mm because of that. At this point, I am not getting another Saint Brake. I am getting a North Shore Billet adapter which I am hoping would work better. I am going to stick with 180mm rotor in the back which should help too.

If you have to use a spacer to clear the rotor with an adapter, does not reduce the strength of the setup?

What difference would the titanium bolts holding the brake adaptor to the frame make? The head of the bolt is contacting the frame, so it would not affect the adaptor at all? Edit: Maybe you were looking at the last two photos and not the first one. I switched to stock shimano bolts after the first failure.

I meant the stock shimano ones are the ones holding the brake caliper.

Washers are needed to clear the rotor.

The bolts are stock Shimano ones. I learned from experience that for Shimano warranty, they care that you use their stock bolts. What adapter do you recommend? And yes, number 3 is something we gotta avoid. Coming from running rear rim brake all my life, I did not really think of it until now.

The first photo is from today on the 2nd caliper (only two rides old) The last two are from March when I broke the first one. I thought I would give the Saint caliper a chance for the 2nd time and it breaks again... Thankfully the frame has a v brake mount I could use. How are people running disc brakes in the back for trials use without breaking? It is crazy that modern street trials frames do not even have rim brake mounts.

It is meant for a car not for a bike, obviously. Haha It seems to be using a v brake mount. I have never seen it before. Any reason you want to try this brake over a conventional trials rim brake setup?

It is already at the lowest clearance possible with just one washer unfortunately. I think it is a matter of just trimming down the pad material a little bit with the use of the wide carthy rim in the back which I can try.

After dealing with snapping disc brake calipers, I decided to have a separate setup ready for rear v brake. I will still keep the rear disc setup if I want to take it for mountain biking, but have the rear v brake for trials riding.

Haha even Jack Carthy himself can't find any Carthy rims in stock probably. 🤣 It is a shame because not everyone wants lightweight fragile single wall rims.