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Everything posted by cwtrials
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The Carbon v-brake brand from Kevin is Lykke; which I think he only made for one year and presumably had the same company has who did Maestro make the frames because they came out the year after his big promotion with Maestro.
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Was just re-watching the "Croatia Trials Camp 2019" video. Around 2018-2019 it seemed like every 3rd euro rider was sponsored by Maestro; I remember thinking their carbon frames looks super bad-ass; especially coming in lots of different colors. Recently I saw on FB they released a new 26" carbon frame. Did these carbon frames all break or did people just hang them up and move on to Crewkerz and Clean? Wa
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After 25 years of trials I finally learned to tap. Still learning to push it higher, but was tapping about 4" higher than I can currently pedal up. Took me long enough
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Do you know how to true a wheel with a spoke key?
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Did your echo fork have an integrated crown race? In that case you need to find a race for your sacaren fork and would explain why it sinks in too much.
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If you can put the chain on without it, you'll be able to put it on with it. It just tucks out of the way once you loosen the axle bolts
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Danny still feels like he's on a completely different bandwidth than anyone else. And he always seems like he genuinely just freaking loves riding his bike
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Same as Ross. Cage pedals always caused me problems. Proper flats and I was fine.
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That was trippy seeing him stay in the same location relative to the ground. Super cool.
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DIY anti-slip solutions for trials obstacles
cwtrials replied to marg26's topic in Beginners Trials Chat
So flat paint is the least slippy. Semi-gloss is just naturally slick. At least here latex is the cheapest and as it's water based it's really easy to use. I normally just use spare paint. But the cheapest flat latex ever is what I use. It simply comes down to cost, if I'm painting pallets that sit outdoors and are not a permanent structure than I want to the be as close to free as possible. -
Just randomly found this user on Pinkbike has uploaded 175+ old school trials videos. Nothing newer than 2008 I think. Mostly old UK trials videos, but a bunch of other stuff mixed in. Some crazy classics and a bunch of videos I've never seen before. Worth checking out. https://www.pinkbike.com/u/JJ86/channel/all/?page=1
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Normally not a fan of Mods, but that looks pretty slick! Price is pretty good too. Would love if they did a 26" and helped the entry market a bit.
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DIY anti-slip solutions for trials obstacles
cwtrials replied to marg26's topic in Beginners Trials Chat
Sand in Paint I have a decent amount of experience with. I actually did so on my demo platforms when I was doing shows too. Just get cheap as possible exterior latex paint, but 100% make sure it is flat. (exterior paint is just slightly less likely to mildew which helps too) Sand, any play sand or bagged sand you can get from a home improvement store will do. It can be hard to mix in the can, I mixed it in the roller tray, and put the paint on super thick with way more sand than I needed and spread it by hand on top a bit too. Just do whatever it takes. A bunch of it will rub off right away, but a decent amount will stick. It won't last forever, but you probably need to paint outdoor obstacles once a year anyway. -
If you can find an echo double wall rim somewhere, that would be the strongest. (I'm 105kg) I've had good luck with the play 26" rear rim. The cutouts aren't crazy small and it has an I-beam shape. IMO single wall rims are stronger with the I beam profile. Some of the rims without I've had the sidewalls bend in on impact. I'd say the echo single wall rim isn't the strongest I've tried.
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Yup. Most rims are pinned, not welded, so that is completely normal.
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Yeah, any pad is better than OEM maguras. But I've used original cousts for years and years with no issues.
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Hey guys, I actually was getting something pretty neat built up. I still have my old trials show setup, so it gave me a good start. I have some huge logs and a bunch for 4"x6" beams from a job site that I haven't incorporated into it yet . But unfortunately I recently had to switch homeowners insurance because of a dog breed issue. (I have a boxer, which I've never heard of being an issue). And then my new company immediately cancelled after visiting the property, because my trials area is "debris in the yard". I'm pretty sure they're just looking for any reason to cancel because I live in a kinda sh!tty part of town. But I got to get this sorted and might need to collapse everything nice and neat for a bit.
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Agreed with above. The entry echos of ten years ago came with tires, brakes, and brake pads that were pretty much useless, I'd buy a brand new bike and drop $400-$500 immediately. And they wouldn't last very long; the wheels were trash, and other parts scary to ride hard. The new entry bikes are actually solid and good out of the box. The biggest problem now is supply, it's really hard to get just about anything these days. Just did an inflation calculator, $1000 USD in 2014 is $1343 now, so 34.3% inflation. That combined with the newer entry bikes being a lot more solid, things seem spot on price wise As nostalgic as I am of the older bikes, I don't miss how flimsy and poorly made they seemed compares to the newer stuff. I used to buy a bike every year, now my bikes last until I get bored. However, the extensive supply is sorely missed. I built a bike from scratch two years ago and had to make six orders from 3 countries to get all the parts.
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Ha 100% agree, I threw some numbers at Marino, and probably made a big mistake on this one, but I still wanted to build it up and see. Lol I have an old school 26" frame I could swap out once I give it a go and see how weird it is.
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Ok, I think I made it work. This old fox F80RLT has a pin that holds the top out plate. Instead of spacers you move the top out plate by tapping out the pin, which allows it to slide to different locations. The shaft comes with two preset holes drilled, one for 80mm and another for 100mm. You can see the hole to the left would allow for increasing travel to 100mm. I'm order to decrease travel I had to drill another hole in the shaft. Should be about 60mm travel now. Axle to crown around 445.
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Thanks guys! I might try a reba, but I finally found a manual on my fox fork. It's super old and not something I'd want on there forever, but I think I can shorten it with a minor modification, at least for proof of concept before I spend more money. I'll keep you updated if I get it to work.
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Thanks man! I'm confident about taking a fork apart as long as I can get the right manual. Just have no idea which forks would allow me to do this. So with rock shox solo air allows travel spacers? Dual air doesn't?
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Hey guys, I've got two trials bikes. A modern high BB bike and a more retro norco inspired frame I had Marino build. It's actually a ton of fun in the right situation. I know just about nothing about the internals of suspension forks. I used to have a x-fusion velvet that was lowered to 60, and I owned one of Ryan leech's old demo bikes with a custom marz. Im trying to get a 26" fork with both a crown to axle of 440-445 and the ability to get fairly stiff. I've got an old fox f80rlt on there now, that is about 475 and it messes up the front end steering too much Anybody have any suggestions of forks I can modify? Or even pointers to tutorials to do so?