philking

Mine just broke while i was riding normally, didn't fall or anything just doing fairly standard moves - they cracked in two places - wouldn't trust them again, thats for sure.

They deffinatly look the sh*t. Absolutely loving the colours available. Have you had to take them apart and give them a service yet? How easy is this to do? What shop did u get them from, and please don't say Santa's work shop!

Well Danny, Thats us told! On topic - i think it is ugly and un-necessary

I am pretty sure your right Always been an area of concern for me - questioned it many times!

Thanks man - both the frame and the bolts suffered in my case aswell Cheers for the quick response

Ok guys, heres the situation... I have just bought myself a heavy duty axel for my rear king iso hub because my standard axel snapped. I have been out to fit it and discovered that i cant get the bolts to fit in the drop out. I am aware that they have to be slotted upwards rather than inserted in from the side but they simply wont go. There is too much welding and not enough dropout plate to give sufficiant clearence for the head of the bolt, i can't even make them go at an angle (which wouldn't help in any case cos they would be straight in the wheel). So my question is, has anyone else used a Czar with fun bolts? If so how? or an i being a complete f*cktard?! Even if u haven't tried this combo but think u can help please reply! thanks!

Don't forget though, that the bb rise will make the frame feel shorter... if you measure from the centre of the bb to the top of the head tube rather than the wheel base of the bike, you will find that a longer high bb frame is pretty similar to a slightly shorter normal bb height frame. This in turn means you have slightly less room in the 'cockpit' of the bike. I am 5'8" (so not particually tall) and i ride the long Czar. Before this i had a Levelboss 1065 which is a lot smaller wheelbase but i don't find this bike too long at all. But at this point i suppose it is just personal preference

Hi there, i have had a Czar for around 6 months now and i have loved every minute of it. My gaps and side hops are now even better than they used to be - this is only due to persistant practice. As for taps they will come with time, it is slightly harder to begin with, but now i am at the same level i was at before. I have tapped 49 inches on it, and i would say i can confidently get 45 inches most times. The high bb did put me off initially but now i am used to it i dont mind at all. TRA rode the vinco frame for ages which (i believe) has the highest bb so far and he could tap mega! I mean it must of been around 55inches normally, then with motorbike technique around 70 inches! lol I am a believer of the high BB movement, mainly cos i gave it a chance unlike a lot of other people.

I have cracked two pairs of the onza bars - nice shape but wank strength. I know people say, oh its just the carbon thats cracked but there really is no way to be sure and also the carbon is there for a reason therefore if it is cracked then its weaker surely. Warrentee wise i got half price replacement on my first pair, but then the new pair cracked within a month so it isnt worth it given they are nearly £60. Let me know about the zoo bars - i was interested, but i just went back to my old PX flat bars in the end.

Yeah it easily could, i medium/harsh ground mine about 10 times before i changed. Oh and the other thing - it doesnt turn to cheese, it's already made out of cheese

Looks good stan.... looking forward to trying it. What is your brake on the front? looks like a formula disc or something? Whats happened to the hope?

Oh my god! How many times?! That isn't a TPA - it adjusts the lever position (i.e. nearer to or further from the bar). This feels like it has the same effect because the lever always travels the same distance. Imagine if your lever is set up so there is 5cm between it and the bar. When you pull the lever it moves 2cm (for example) untill it locks thus meaning it is traveling 40% of the distance to the bar. If you then adjust the lever further out so it is positioned 6cm away from the bar when not pulled, it still travels 2cm, but now the (same) 2cm is only 30% of the total distance to the bar. So it does lock up further away from the bar, but it still moves the same amount. It is therefore NOT a TPA, but a REACH adjusted.... Thank you, Goodnight! (Oh by the way, if you are refering to something else and you are right i am sorry)

Brilliant - much better than your other vid. liked that one A LOT

Riding was amazing, filming was decent, editing was aweful. I appreciate that you didnt do much editing, but what you did do was stupid... why did you cut so many clips off before the move was complete? In a trailer that technique can be used to give a sence of' "whats going to happen next" but in a full length vid it just ruins what could be great. For example: the rolling gaps across the water, (around 4:20) we don't see a single entire clip of it, all have been cross faded with others... I liked it, but what i have mentioned there will unfortuantaly keep this video out of my "Best Ever Vids" folder.

Koxx has always had a good professional name, whereas onza are viewed as a more consumer, affordable company. However, onza recently have been branching out to make a wider spectrum of bikes - the Limey for example is easily as good quality as the Koxx frames. Because the koxx frames are all signature designs for pro competition riders, they are built in a very light way, often with ultra thin tubing. This is fine for riders who treat their bikes with absolue care or who can get new frames by clicking their fingers (sponsored riders), but for less experienced riders it is a risk. The quality of Koxx bikes can't be knocked though - although people are moving away from the "fashion" of Koxx frames, they are still creating cutting edge designs and ideas. Looking at most of the recent design ideas in trials (e.g. cnc head tube and BB rise) they have come from koxx, and other companies have followed suit. However, recently Onza have decided to come up with their own (very good) ideas, such as the dropped chain stays, thus showing their ability to rival a company like Koxx. All in all i don't really think there is a better company - Koxx offer a larger range of professional end frames, but Onza are now coming along with new, very good quality frames to rival thoes of koxx.

Why dont you just move the cylinders in? Do you know how to set up breaks properly? If they are moving 9mm thats fine.... they should be set up so they are around 2mm from the rim.

Click That is the shape of the Tryall 31.8 flat bars, as you can see they are different to these which are the original ones, with the very low rise on them. Unfortunately, the only way of having that nice shape is to run a 25.4mm stem

I, with the help of tom rigg, have made myself a really good sprung tensioner - better than the shit fresh products thing i have been battling with for the last couple of months. The design was origianlly created by tom, so all credit to him. It is really in prototype stage but after my ride today it beats anything i have used before. I even landed a sidehop directly onto it and rode off fine without having to adjust or check anything. The problem with fixed tensioner is that they are SH*T. I am absolutely appauled at the fresh tensioner, and i would not reccomend it to anyone. It has a servere lack of adjustability and comes loose after about 1 minute of riding small stuff. With regard to the rear mech it is good, but rather bulky if you side hop to the right - a problem for me. However this problem is not solved by any tensioners either.... untill now Basically, none of the tensioners that are available work properly (exept maybe the leeson one, but i dont know how it works, anyone care to explain?) so you may aswell stick with a locked out mech.

Quite like it..... i don't think it would really make much difference though. Just seems rather pointless. I think the carbon thing in trials is a dangerous because of the way we use the bikes, and once there is a deepish scratch in it, it would get very weak. Fair play to them for trying it out, but it would definately give me the willys about riding hard on it. Plus the old frame was perfectly good - it wasn't a levelboss, it was the first XTP just slightly customised for Kenny, and it rides really nicely.

Whats your point? Ben slinger is about 6 feet tall and rides mod, Marc Caisso is about 5'7" and rides stock, its nothing to do with "wee nippers bridging the gap", its more about making a 24" frame in the style of the recent uci stock bikes... Plus he doesnt look "fully grown ish", if anything i would say he looks like that frame would suit him cos he isnt a particually tall or chunck guy. Bike looks ok, not keen on the colour, but i like the idea of it

You wont get in trouble for using the same name, but you might get in trouble for getting other people to do your course work.

It also depends on the frame you have...? One main reason, which seems to of been over looked here, is that a rear disc can snap or crack your frame. A rear disc on a normal bike is used differently (it is used to slow rather than be locked completely) to on a trials bike, where you have all your weight resting on your brake mounts. In most cases the extra forces of having all your weight on one side of the bke on one small area is enough to crack your stays. Therefore unless the disc mounts are really beefy or designed specifically for trials use then you may just ruin your frame. However, there are some frames that can take the stress because they are designed for it: CLICK HERE. So to sum up, rear discs are very good for back brakes, if you have a strong enough frame and also if it is a powerful disc.

Will edit in 10 mins

Ace well done Stan have to ride soon.

I made a 4 bolt booster that was compatable with evo 2 bolt mounts, got an A*. Worked a treat, my friend made a bike work stand, so you really pretty much have free chioce. The only real requirement is that it solves a problem, so in my case the problem was that i my rear brake was flexing my frame and slipping easily due to inadaquate power transfer, so i answered that problem with a booster.