Swoofty

Has anyone else broken one of these while riding? It wasn't over-tightened when installed and it must have snapped recently as it was barely holding on when I noticed it was askew in the crank today. I've ordered a replacement, but I wonder if it will just happen again. My screw finder doesn't go up to M18 (i think it's an M18 anyway). Does anybody know what size bolt and thread pitch would make a steel/ti replacement for it?

Needs a belt drive to be fully eccentric ;-) Very trick looking ride to be sure. Well done Adam.

Great looking wheel! It looks more uniform than I thought it would. You'll need to re-tension 2 more times right? Or is this chord different from what BERD uses? Very excited to find out the results of all your hours labors.

That was one of the reasons I didn't get a Silex initially. There really are no alloy 15mm non tapered forks.

No, it's just the alu TMS 15mm through fork they offered last year. It has some issues...

Time for new wheels already! The ebay gods were particularly nice to me so i rolled that windfall into some carbon wheels for the Marino/Silex. I looked into BERD spokes after reading Adam's thread about them, but the pre-made spokes only go as short as 240mm and I didn't want to go 4x fo make up the extra length and NO WAY am I gonna splice and solder my own. Who's go that kind of free time these days?!? Anyway, new wheels. Industry Nine Hydra to Lightbicycle Recon 24 and Extralite Hyper JF to Lightbicycle Moto Cruiser 24 with Sapim spokes and nips.

Avid ultimates were once the gold standard in V brakes and they're still top notch if you can find any. Extralite makes some CNC box section Vs that are probably ridiculously stiff, but the price is pretty stiff too. If you can minimize/eliminate the slop at the pivot and you're using really good cable and housing (housing cut with perfectly square ends!!) most V arms will be plenty. On my last pure trials V brake setup, (Avid ultimate arms & levers, Odyssey linear cable) the only 'squish' was in the Heatsink blue pads I was using (I didn't want to grind the rim).

Magura HC rotors are great, but for that price difference, don't bother. HC rotors are similarly priced to other rotors here in the US (and EU/UK). You won't notice much difference between the Avids and the Maguras once they are properly bedded in.

I have to say, the axle must have been broken for months and I rode it to the top of my level and never noticed anything that would have made me stop riding. It's rally (racing) tough for sure. I have no intention of going to another hub in the foreseeable future. Nothing's perfect and nothing last forever; especially trials related. Now I have a full understanding of the periodic maintenance I should do and their hubs are simple to work on. I'll be build another Hydra wheel in the coming weeks for my Silex and I'm not worried in the least.

I finally got around to putting my new titanium cog on my Hydra and I noticed there was some odd play in it again. I pulled the freewheel and inspected the bearings, but everything seemed fine. When I9 warrantied this hub a few months back, they sent me a full bearing set so I decided to change the hub bearings this time, even though they looked fine. Once I got one bearing out it all became clear. The axle was broken!! The axle has stops on it that sit against the bearings so even though it was broken, it wouldn't fall out. I ordered this hub as a bolt on originally and they sent me a 10mm through axle conversion in addition, possibly by accident. At any rate, I had a replacement axle on hand so in went new bearings and new axle and now, again, it feels all good.

I saw it in one of Sam Pilgrim's videos years ago and have been using it ever since. He says he got it from someone else too.

Zip ties dude. Put about 8 or so zip ties in the grip, space them out around evenly and slide the grip on the bar. Once it's in place, pull out the zipties. Done.

24 pure never got it's day in the sun. Just get a mod instead; a world of choices and great disc performance. 24 pures are all tradeoff and no advantages sadly.

That's also what I found from other forums. I'm also dealing with pad clearance, but on MT5s. I've got a TMS fork with poorly aligned post mounts that won't allow the caliper to slide far enough over to center the rotor. No matter what I do the rotor just howls when I ride.

What do you lube them with? WD40, Bosheild, freehub oil? I find myself in need of this sort of maintenance all of a sudden.

So apparently I'm not a very patient person. I'd wanted one of these Silex frames so I took the opportunity to use all those 'Marino' spare parts and build one. I've been riding the skatepark more lately so I wanted to spare my Guilty from the abuses that brings. That's how I billed it to my wife anyway. First impressions are pretty good, but I'm glad I got the Guilty and not one of these. Guilty wins hands down.

Here's what they look like for reals.

Adam I am completely sold on these hubs. I have 3 of them and the oldest is going on 2 years now and has seen the most use and it is still perfect. The one below is the real gold standard, Hyper Front. It's 76 grams and straight pull 3x disc side and straight pull radial non disc. I wanted to run it on my TMS Evo6, but a carbon disc fork with a 15mm through axle didn't happen so I ran it on my Hex and it was a dream. I ran it with a 203 rotor and it never failed. I'm back on 24" wheels now and I can't find straight pull spokes short enough (double butted) to run the Hyper Front hub on 24" hoops so I'm back on the J bend Hyper JF hub. The prices are comparable with other high end hubs and the build quality is top notch. If I break one, I'll let you know.

Use code 'BOXCO10' for 10% off.

BOX components has just announced a series of HG splined (Shimano) titanium cogs. They are sizes 13t to 18t with a 5mm wide base (same as the old Chris King stainless cogs). Not cheap, but something tells me they won't last long.

No idea. I plan on using a different sprung tensioner anyway. Unfortunately Marino doesn't offer a 135 through axle. Wheels are done now. My purple Profile hub will have to do for the rear; hopefully the color will fit. I re-nippled the front first and tried a silver - orange pattern that I might go back to.

I have the Bonz on my Ozonys Curve also and it has been flawless. For me the key was to replace the non drive side arm and it's been great ever since. I think since the BB is so wide on the Guilty there wasn't enough meat on the spindle for the other arm to hold onto.

I love splinters on my inner legs! They're my favorite! I haven't exhausted the possibilities of carbon, aluminum and steel yet, I'm good. But, hey, designed it myself, grew it myself; that's a cool merit badge.

The Bonz is just shy of 100mm. I used it on my Guilty that has an 80mm+ bottom bracket shell. It should work no problem on a 73, you'll just need some spacers to fine tune it. The 2 problems I've found with the Bonz are that nothing but compression holds the freewheel/cog/bash on and the single pinch bolt on the non drive side is not really enough. I have a Bonz on my pure 26" bike and it's been fantastic, but I put a Shimano non drive arm on with 2 pinch bolts. The Bonz crank does unlock a lot of drive possibilities though.

The donor wheel for the front of this build will be my old wheel for the Crewkerz Guilty. Extralite Hyper JF hub to Spank Spike Race 33 rim, DT comp spokes. It just needs to be re-nippled with orange accents.