Swoofty

I try not to use the wrong style fork, but sometimes it's unavoidable. I've been running an adapter base cup on my Marino for a few months now with no adverse effects. I think it's fairly common.

Did you try contacting Magura about this? They have a 5 year warranty and they've always been easy to deal with for me.

Thanks for that. I've ordered one of the Hopes. Cheers

The mount's been faced and no way I'm using conical washers. That would make it harder to set up, guaranteed. I finally decided to tinker with it again yesterday and after four tries I got it perfectly centered; for now. Trickstuff's site is down and I looked all over Bike24, but couldn't find a +20 that uses 4 bolts. That would be ideal, but I've never seen one. Thank you both for not suggesting that I go to a 180 rotor... ;-)

Anyone have some sage advice for dealing with +20 post mount adapters? Mine's on the front to make things worse. It's so hard to align the caliper with so much play due to the adapter. I've tried zip ties or clamps to hold the adapter while I try to align the caliper, but it's such a pain. I might need to drill my magura and add adjustment set screws like I did in my Hayes A4 vid. Anyone know a better way?

Thanks fellas. I'll look into a Racing Ralph or an Ikon for the front then. Cheers!

Calling all you 26" street rollers out there. Anyone tried the Conti Race Kings, front or rear? I've tried the Cross Kings, but the edge knobs are too abrupt and don't hold odd ledges well. I'm currently running Maxxis Ikon rear and Michelin Pilot Slope front. The Ikons are great, too expensive at the moment and the Slopes are very quick wearing and hard to find.

Yeah, that's what I did when this fork was on my Silex. The bummer is this is meant to be my skatepark bike so the front wheel needs to come off every ride. Annoying. I wish TMS could put down the fromage long enough to weld the tab on in the correct spot. I think I've found a better fork that's actually in stock so it should be properly sorted soon.

Here's the first build out. The numbers came out spot on. Wheelbase 1000mm, chainstay 360mm, frame weight 2730g. I haven't tried to measure the BB height or the head angle yet. Most everything is how I wanted it for this build except for the fork. And oh my god that fork! The bike is basically sidelined until I can replace the fork. The brake mount (post, naturally) is too close to the rotor and no caliper that I could find will slide far enough over not to rub. I even filed the threads off the brake mount bolt so the caliper could slide over slightly farther, but to no avail. Thanks TMS :-(

170 days! That's all it took from payment to delivery. The frame arrived unexpectedly on Tuesday (the tracking number never worked) and I've been slowly piecing it together ever since. Not sure how long Marino's been doing this, but the frame has replaceable bolt on dropouts L & R so it can run vertical or horizontal dropouts. Hopefully a through axle option someday. Ironically I ordered the frame with a tapered headset, but I no longer have a tapered fork for it so for now it'll get a TMS straight fork.

The first thing I did when I got the frame was pop out the Spanish/Isis BB and put in 2437 bearings for Shimano cranks. I did it a little different than last time. Since the Spanish bearings are 9mm wide and the 2437s are 7mm wide, I made up the difference with 2mm spokes bent into washers of a sort. It's only been out for 3 rides, but so far so good.

Back in the summer of 2020, my old Czar 26 was stolen. It was my all time favorite bike and I was completely devastated by it's loss. That summer was the height of the Covid pandemic and any bike was hard to come by so I grabbed the last Hex that Tarty had. The Hex was fine, but it wasn't my Czar. After the Hex, I got my Crewkerz Guilty and I was in love all over again. The Guilty remains the best bike I've ever owned. Then, late last year, I found a 2018 Czar frame, still new, in a shop in Japan. I just couldn't resist the urge so I jumped through all the hoops of international shipping and now it's mine. The color wouldn't have been my first choice, but I might change it later. My friend called the color 'sad carrot'. I'm still breaking it in, but it feels like home...

Oh that's unfortunate. If anyone's willing, i can order spokes for them and then send them to the UK. My order came out to $359 for the spokes, nipples and the first time build kit. It would be $315 for them to build it for me, but where's the fun in that! Edit: Can you guys order spokes direct from BERD in Minnesota?

Well I guess it's contagious; I just ordered some BERD spokes. Adam's way is admirably impressive, but no way I'm doing that much work for it! Great vid by the way, Ali.

2022 is shaping up to be the heaviest 26" street trials year since the early 2000s. TMS has a 26" Silex out now to satisfy your steel desires and Extension has a 26" called Drax. Inspired is still pumping out the Hex and if Echo comes back to life we might even see some more Czar 26" bikes. That's the potential for four 26" street trials bikes currently available for purchase. That hasn't happened in my 13 years of riding. If anyone gets one of the new 26s, please post a review. I'm very interested to know how they ride.

I've had great luck running double butted (2.0,1.8,2.0) spokes in the rear for years now (Sapim and DT). For the front I've done one in 2.0,1.5,2.0 but only for rim brakes. For disc front wheels I usually only go down to Sapims 2.0,1.7,2.0 spokes. Check out the BERD spoke thread in the 'Bike Chat' section if you want full crazy.

Miracle of miracles! Another update from Peru! Also, the Silex experiment is coming to an end already and will be disassembled this week most likely. Fingers crossed for a Marino this winter, but there are already plans for a different bike underway. Stay tuned...

Depending on who you've gotten the ti bolts from, they often have a bit of oil left on them from manufacturing. Make sure they're clean and then the blue locktite usually does the trick. Check them during and after the first few rides to make sure they're all behaving. Also try to limit the death grip when landing backwards (where possible!).

Has anybody tried these new eco freeriders? I got a pair on super sale for black friday. They're made from recycled ocean plastic or something so I'm saving the world while riding trials. I wore them to work for about a week to try and break them in before riding and now they've been on about 10 rides. The problem is, they just won't break in. They feel just as stiff as new and it's very disconcerting. I've had tons of regular freerides in the past and they feel great in no time, but these are not responding well. I pretty much wore out my old pair before switching to these so they really need to break in soon... Has anyone tried these with better results?

Woohoo!! January, 10 update! A picture of 3 tubes welded! Half way? Anybody? 5 more months? Stay tuned for more exciting updates!

I've cracked one drivering in my past. Usually they lose teeth or round off, but sometimes they crack. Yours looks replaceable, no?

Anybody know if Echo is still a viable company these days? I've heard from a few shops that they have outstanding orders form Echo for over a year now. It would really be a shame to lose them. Anybody know what's up?

More like gilding the lily than polishing the turd, no?

Apparently I've been living under a rock. A simple google search revealed that there are tons of M18 crank bolts out there; in every material imaginable. I guess it was figuring out that it was an M18 was the real trick. Thanks again guys!

Thanks guys! After seeing how thin the connection is now that it's broken, I think I might upgrade to the TT. It lasted a year at least.