Azarathal

Safe man, I still need a ride up your ends.

I know this isn't relevant to your original question buut... I'm wondering if anyone's tried the 19" / 4.5" tube on tarty? It looks like an absolute beast :3

All of you guys being complete twats about this, wouldn't you want reliability and decent sound? Or are you all just jumping on the 'lets gang together and be complete c**ts' bandwagon?

Yeah I know it, I'm near Bracknell / Camberly military base

Not sure on the price but if you're dead set on getting a secondhand frame look out for dents, cracks and make sure all the threads are ok. Where abouts in Surrey are you from?

Angle grind / cut the side nobbles off and wear down the middle section.

Alright thanks guys, I'll check the BB when I get time.

Everything is tight, well greased, runs smoothly e.g. no grinding in the bearings.

You obviously weren't paying attention to the post above me. He mentioned a dremel option and I'd never heard of it before, hence the question mark and the o.O

Why are you guys being such dicks about this? With that noise following you around constantly wouldn't you want reliability AND a decent sound? Rather than reliability and a noise that pisses you off.?

Heya guys, I'm starting to worry a little about my bike, every now and then I'll hear a crack coming from my freewheel area, there's no skip when it happens, my chainline is perfect, tension is decent etc etc. Any clues as to what might be happening?

Dremel option? o.O

What about a 75degree short mod? I've been after a silversky geo marino for ages and I'd be willing to try it if in theory it'd feel nice (still havn't got the funds though)

If you use tar then you might as well sand your rim back to smooth

I ride with brakes (on a mod) but practice brakeless sidehops / pedal ups / kicks all the time knowing I have the brake if its needed. It makes me more confident to start trying these things

Tar on a grind? Are you special? Tar on a grind is the same as tar on smooth and the wet performance is destroyed 'cos of the tar.

40 in the front and about 18 or so in the rear. Bearing in mind im a light 10stone, when on the rear wheel it feels too solid, when I land on an edge too soft. Meh.

No idea where you got that shit from 'cos Steve has stated multiple times it is the exact same material as original cousts

Ever hugged one of those hens? Best thing ever.

Try only using those two thin washers for the inside of the caliper?

A 2bolt booster may be enough, he might not even need one as it might just be a bleed issue. The SL can be water bled, I think it was Mark W that used one a while ago with water and it was alright, it was only one of the first generations of tr / sl that leaked If I remember. Long lever = more breaking power, this bring me to thew next bold statement. You've suggested that this guy used a booster and yet not your mate with the horrible, flexy frame?

Rubber doesn't absorb oil. Some pads are quite porous though and could have oil in the tiny little holes.

No trading in New Members Chat Also, rear disk on a stock is a really bad idea, most frames have the disk mounts 'just cause' and arent rly strong enough to run disk. Plus with the large amount of spoke flex on a 26" wheel disks feel strange on the rear.

4th :3

If you keep your crank bolts nice and tight and don't round off any tapers then theres not really a point of spending all that extra money. If you do keep getting wobbly cranks / rounding tapers then defiantly go isis