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Everything posted by Juan Manuel
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Am I the only one who got a pair of brakes that leaked ?
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Bought a pair of HS11 2011 brakes and they both leaked through the master cilinder, they are bad quality brakes in every single way. Buy 2005 HS33 brakes ! (2011 slave cylinders do work, they're the same than the 2005 ones, I'm just refering to the brake levers with the above coments...)
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Posting after a while... Both levers leaked. The "rear" lever leaked first because it's used more frequently but the "front" lever also leaks. I know they've got a flip-flop design that's why the ("). They are not properly sealed.. I won't spend money on 2011 brakes never again, my HS33 2005 have lasted for years and are still working properly. Maybe I just had bad luck and other HS11 2011 brakes would function correctly but I'm not buying 2011 brakes again.. Besides there's no need to, being other brakes for sale.
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By using a booster you avoid hitting the brake hose. All frames will eventually crack, using a brake booster increases frame life (in that specific part) but that frame should still last long without the usage of a booster. As regards cutting the booster, you would save little weight, making no difference in your riding. Maybe some day when you're close to your physical limit those grams will matter. Era mas fácil decírtelo en español...
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Helpful advice, will try swimming also! I attend a good gym with lots of equipment and swimming pools, doing max. strength atm before training power. I'm going to the gym every day except for weekends and riding every day with no exception The problem is that my riding varies so much depending on how tired am I feeling and is sometimes dangerous, I mean I'm also tired for bailing out! I'm training soft movements on the bike to avoid becoming clumsy... I noticed that after going to the gym and resting a while the bike feels lighter, besides many of the riders in my city are extremely fit and climb with ease high obstacles with a not so perfect technique! I'm still 16 and have plenty of time to have fun riding (although school is time demanding ) so I'm progressing really fast and starting to reach my physical limit in some moves..
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Technique is more important I guess but the best rider from Argentina, who has a lot of technique (not compared to the super-elite I guess) climbs side-hop 1,35m and another friend of mine 1,50m. So power is important too ! Do you go to the gym Ali?
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Hi, I was wondering how do you or elite riders train in the gymnasium and how do they manage their times, etc. Is going first to the gym better or riding goes first? Both things are done in the same day? Well, I supposed that this kind of discussion could be of some help for trial riders. Juan Manuel
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Sent it from the TartyBikes' webpage. Will re-send the email if you want. When it was bleed with oil it was also leaking, I remember the rear brake was oily even when I was using it before shortening the hoses. What would you like me to do for you to see that the brake is actually leaking? I took the photos with my cellphone, sorry for the bad quality. I would hate to re-bleed the brake only to see it leaking again and need to switch back to the other lever, but if there is no other option I'll do it of course. I've used the rear lever in the front brake twice and it leaked both times. However, the real front lever has never leaked, so it's not a barbed-fitting problem. Juan Manuel
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Trialtech, if not Try-All. Viz 720 is uncomfortable.
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Read the post and see the pictures. Sent the e-mail as regards the warranty.
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Thanks, Yes, I bought it in TartyBikes. After posting I rode the bike with the other lever, the one which came originally in the "front" brake and worked perfect. Only the "rear" (I know it's the same because it has a "flip-flop" design) leaks. I guess I'll ride with the old lever till the replacement comes, fortunately one new lever works great. Juan Manuel
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Well, today I did bath bleed the brake, took everything apart and resembled the brake under the water (obviously i didn't disassemble the lever nor the slave cylinders) bleeding everything separated. Rode my bike (today is not raining anymore) and in 1 minute the water escaped (another few hours lost). The brake IS leaking and through the PISTON/CYLINDER. How the brake ended up after loosing the water: Please help to claim the guaranty, I don't know how. I have a comp in two months and would also like to train for it. Juan Manuel
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Yes it rotates, not easily though. It should be completely still? Didn't tried with the food colouring yet. I pulled the brake some times after re-bleeding and it didn't leak, then when I rode the bike for a while the lever cold reach the handlebar so you may be right about the small amounts of air all over the system. Will test the brake for a week and try different things, then I'll comment. Juan Manuel
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Tried the bike today. Was raining which didn't help me to see where was leaking from but the barbed fitting is perfect and was assembled correctly. I started using the brake normally until the lever eventually started reaching the handlebar, the water is still escaping. This brakes are driving me crazy Will try to post a video or something.
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I tested the front brake and didn't leak. Then I switched the lever and put the rear lever in the front brake and apparently didn't leak. I hope the water was leaking through the barbed fitting. Tomorrow I'll join the rear brake hose to the lever's barbed fitting more carefully, then I'll ride for a while. Probably the water was coming out from the barbed fitting, going through the back of the lever and dropping from the cylinder/piston-side of the lever. If this is true, anyways thanks for your help because I'd probably had missed that fact if you didn't give me some advice. After testing the bike I'll comment so as to avoid misleading someone who is about to buy the brake. Juan Manuel
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Any suggestions ? I need to decide whether to buy new Levers (Which ones) or to fix the current ones in some way (How could I?).
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Neil Tunnicliffe and Ali C are a must
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Unfortunately, yes. I have bleed the brake many times with different TPA adjustments to try to stop the water coming out through the cylinder/piston but I couldn't. Using an old brake lever that I had (HSS33 2005) solved the problem for the rear brake, but I still need a solution for the front one (with the 2011 lever), besides the old brake lever that I have in the rear brake atm has been used for so long and I want to change it (the old 2005 brake lever sealing is better than the 2011 Magura's even after years of usage!). Juan Manuel
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Thank you for your answer. I didn't know a syringe could be used as a reservoir. It's helpfull advice. ____________________________________ Anyways, my brake leaks through the piston. I'm still looking for some help. Juan Manuel
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Hello, I bought a pair of new Magura HS11 at TartyBikes. I had to shorten hoses so then I had to re-bleed them. They were of course difficult to bleed, not only because they were different from the previous ones but also because they don't have threads in the lever to connect a syringe (so you always have to bleed the entire brake from the slave cylinder), and you have to undo the lever nut until you see some threads, and the Bleed Port plug is hard to take out besides it's small and can easily become lost. After the bleed I pulled the brake 4 or five times with only one finger and with the strength required for some techniques (I'm 16, have rode trials for 3 years now and I perfectly know which strength should the brake be pulled with)and the water (I did a water bleed) dropped off to the floor. Tried using different TPA setups to see if i could solve the problem but it still leaks. Then, I put the old Magura HS33 complete lever I did re-bleed the system and it worked perfectly fine without leaking. My HSS11 2011 lever leaks. Does somebody had the same problem? Ways to solve it? (I hate to bleed the brake with oil but it may be a solution, still don't know) HS33 levers are in some way better? (I bought HS11 because I red in this forum it was essentially the same thing) If the solution is replacing the levers, which levers should I buy? Thanks, Juan Manuel
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Ahaha I'm from Rosario too. He lacks on control but has an impressive strength yeah. Anyways, he is precise for sidehoping. The last sidehop is not exactly 1.50m (1.47m I think) but it's still huge !! Ezequiel does some great stuff too... he is seventeen and climbs 1.27 to front wheel Anyways, the video editing isn't really good.. My videos are always better !! (6) Ahaha Juan Manuel BTW I hate appearing as a trials newbie.. Because I'm not Can I change it ??
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Adam Read's Interview - Tartybikes' Facts And Figures
Juan Manuel replied to TrashZen's topic in Trials Chat
Here in Argentina there are no trial parts available at all, and dealers in South America are either inefficient or too expensive. We are really glad TartyBikes exists !! I belive that what makes TartyBikes the best trials online shop is it's webpage. Their service is exellent in many aspects but the handy interface for watching the products (a wide number of them btw), compare them and order is probably the best of them. I wished Argentina's customs didn't exist and shipping was cheaper but the products' prices are really low so it's still inexpensive. While I was reading the article wondered how many trials riders where out there because Argentina is an extense country and there are almost no trials riders (50 in the whole country maximun !!) Probably in the UK a lot of riders gather on weekends so maybe I'll plan a trip one of these days (I'll also visit TartyBikes ). -
Echo Sl pedals, Echo Urban Fork, Sl booster and Gu Le 26" (+6)
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Hi, I've got a Gu Le 26" (+6) and I'm 1.80m high. I'm looking for a new stem (lightweight) and handlebar (more or less 10° upsweep and backsweep; not carbon fibre because I feel it won't last long). Still don't know which are my best bet. I'm also ordering Echo SL cage pedals and a pair of cranks. I was wandering which cranks should I buy (between Echo SL, Rockman Lite or maybe others?) Thanks, Juan Manuel
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ISIS or square tapper?? Anyways placing a spacer between the crank and the bottom bracket stop may cause the crank coming loose as the BB has a "conic" shape, then its thiner at the end of the axle. I don't know if you understand what I mean