rupintart

Nice thread jack. Yes.

Logic would tell you otherwise, but mathematics and physics don't lie. The surface area dissipates the heat, but the the caliper can only exert what it can and the maximum amount of force is being pressed into the rotor. The performance can only be increased by increasing the friction coefficient, i.e. brake pad compound. A bigger pad will do nothing but make for lower braking temps and more even wear of the braking area (a large wear path vs a small wear path). Easiest way to wrap your head around this is think of an object like an empty beer bottle sliding across a table. Take a beer bottle that's full, and it will not slide as far because there is more force being applied between the coaster and the table. The surface area is the same, but the there's more force being applied (full beer bottle) so it will not travel as far.

Lots of people rode them back in the day. It's definitely street geo with it being short. I had a spin on one, but rode it as a pure trials bike with a long stem. With a short stem, it's probably PERFECT as a streetbike, but it lacks a seat, so take that for what it's worth. Short, dece BB height, relatively short stays, I would even slap a suspension fork on it and make it a SS trail bike (I never sit down anyways). I would buy it. I actually eMailed the seller but he never got back to me, so take that for what it's worth as well.

Geo: Chainstays - 400mm Top Tube - 571mm Seat tube - 310mm Head tube - 120mm Head Angle - 74 Seat Angle - 73 BB drop - +.5mm Wheel Base - 1020ish (haven't put a fork on it) Weight - 4.5ish lbs

COMPLETELY off base with the smaller pad more pressure. The pressure is completely reliant on the force the caliper exudes, it has NOTHING to do with the brake pad or stopping ability in that regard. If you apply a 100lb force on the brake lever with the mechanical advantage/leverage of the lever say at x4, the force at the master cylinder will be 400lb. So let's say the master piston has an area of 1sqin so you have a pressure of 400lb/sqin. That pressure is then transferred down the hoses in (an enclosed system). So now at the slave cylinder you have a pressure of 400lb/sqin, if the piston has an area of say 4sqin then you have a total force of 1600lb. That force is then transferred to the back of the pad and as the back of the pad is not part of the hydraulic system, the force is applied simply as a force. If the pad has an area on the disc of say 8sqin then divide the force by the area to get pressure, so the pressure is 200lb/sqin. 8 x 200 = 1600 But even if you reduce the area of the pad on the disc to 4sqin the total force of the system will still be at 1600lb, so the pressure will be 400lb/sqin. (use simple algebra, again, dividing the force by the area to get pressure) 4 x 400 = 1600 So no loss involved as total force of the system is still at 1600 regardless. Pad size is only relevant for heat dissipation, i.e. a brake pad the size of a pencil eraser would stop a just as well as a brake pad the size currently in the caliper given nothing fails or melts from heat with the same force being exerted behind the pad. Being a mechanical engineering student helps. As for the BB5 vs BB7, I have ran both and the only way I would run a BB5 is if the caliper were sold to me SEPARATELY at an amazing deal or given to me. Why? Because why would I buy a BB5, then buy an adapter, and then have to buy a new rotor because roundagons suck ass? If I have to go and do all this extra nonsense buying, why wouldn't I just buy a brake that has more adjust-ability and can already come with a good rotor and the adapter? Setting up a BB5 because of the lack of adjust-ability is a PITA on frame/fork were the brake tabs are far from perfect. I've never really noticed a difference in braking ability with the same pads (compound/brand) and rotor size, so that part is negligible I guess. I also haven't had a ton of riding exposure behind a BB5 because I never had the desire or need to. THAT is my reasoning behind not buying a BB5.

That's one of the songs in my riding playlist.....never thought I would see it attached to a video. That is easily in my top 5 movies of this year. Epic riding, filming, music, and editing....f**king good.

And what percentage of videos on here utilize the zoom, slow mo, or adjustable fade? I'm not saying WMM is the end all or anything of that nature, but even those very basic tools you pointed out are hardly even utilized in most trials vids. I have Premier on my PC for the simple fact of utilizing it for school projects. And what happens when people use effects? People complain it's over-edited and just prefer a simple cut to the scene....case in point, WMM works fine for most every film on here.

Anybody that even remotely knows about bikes knows that if they see a Red Bull helmet, the guy is rad.

^ I 2nd Matt. I was expecting to see some massive shit at the end, but nothing happened. If you're going to put fails and misc nonsense through the first half, at least the last 5 seconds has to have SOME good shots. The only time a teaser doesn't have completed moves AT ALL is like when there are MASSIVE moves done (gap from one building to another or HUGE wedge to front, etc.) and it cuts right before the move is executed/completed. It makes a person want to watch the feature to see if those were seemingly impossibly massive moves were done, i.e. it TEASES you. What you did was show a bunch fails, how does that tease anybody? All that said, at least you put yourself out there, which more than what many on this forum can say. That, and it probably will be pretty decent cause the shit you were going after in that vid at times was pretty large as was the stuff in your last vid. I'll watch the "feature" because of those aforementioned facts, not because the "teaser" did.

9.999 times out of 10, most of the videos edited on the internet have no fancy editing and don't really warrant the use of such exclusive/elite programs like Premier of Vegas. Even with quick cuts from scene to scene, you can do that in Windows Movie Maker. I challenge anybody to show me a trials video of a rider that's on here that warrants the need for those pricey programs and couldn't be done in WMM. I think WMM even accepts HD video now to even broaden it's use. I think a lot of people just like to say they have these programs, but in all reality don't even need them.

Don't even consider a bb5. As far as light at the lever, you set the lever so there is the most leverage at the lever and to where the pads are dialed to where they're pushed out. The action on a BB7 isn't heavy to begin with, so the lever action will be light even if you don't have the pads pressed in.

No, no, no.....Profile, as are ALL BMX HUBS are 110mm spacing.

Dude, you answered all of your question in that post alone. If you haven't noticed, trials bikes are a bit of a bodge job to get things to work, grinding rims to work, trimming pads, superglue, etc. And yes, it's superglue. The search function works well.

Probably not. Like most things in the trials market, nothing is ever thought of first. Like others have posted, it's not really a needed modification. And as mark stated, people are always bitching about prices, this is one thing that will skyrocket pricing as the time on the CNC machine will increase significantly as will tooling requirements. But even as you have realized, cracking is probably likely. If it's cracking on Kings, it's going to crack on half arsed trials products, especially if it's seeing abuse. But I could be completely off base about the cracking, who knows, we'll have to see. but I think the energy could have been better spent on improving a freewheel, or perhaps something that's always nice to have options in, tires and rims.

Mark is spot on with everything. In all reality, how many times do you take off a FW to warrant it NEEDING to be taken off easier? It's not really that hard to remove. You take a bolt and a washer, bolt the tool to the FW, put it in a vice, take a long pole slid over a wrench and turn. It takes nearly no effort when done properly. I have more issues with putting on a tough tire than I do removing a FW. Cassettes are a different story because people like to mess about with gear ratios so ease of removal is pinnacle. A FW, there really is no point cause you take it off what, once a year? The reason this wasn't done earlier is the tooling required to do a base that large was pricey, and IIRC Shimano had rights to those toolings to do the threads on the inside for the lockring as well. Have any of you also looked at durability? With a screw on base, you can have a thicker base between the BB and the threads. With an interface like that, the thickness between the interface and the isis interface is probably like half. How well will that interface handle bashing loads or body weight on it? I don't think it will be such a great idea. Although the concept is there, the demand for it, meh. Like I said, how often is a FW removed to warrant such an industry change just for ease of removal, which isn't even remotely difficult if done properly in the first place? Whilst I think things like these snowball into other improvements, this particular one is useless.

He goes that big because, well, HAVE YOU SEEN HOW BIG HE IS? It's hard for somebody 5 foot tall to jump 3 feet. It's not so hard for somebody who's nearly 7 feet tall jump 3 feet. He's like an ogre. Comparing his massive riding to anybody is like asking the short white guy on the Lakers why he can't touch the rim. Shorter/normal people have to work to get the height that he can nearly just step onto. It's all about context and proportion. Frankly, I'm wondering WHY he isn't going bigger. Heights like that are somewhat average if you take into account his massive stature. That said, Comas is a f**king legend and that was brilliant riding.

I was referring to the guy a couple posts up saying why he uses plastic backings. But if he's not breaking them, then no reason to upgrade I guess...

alu backing are more of a durability reason than feel. Whilst the feel is a byproduct, the alu backing won't split or break on you like plastic will. Most all of the brake backing issues have been solved by an alu backing.

It could be a couple things: 1. Check your stem and bars. Loose bars/stems or dirt in there makes them pop. 2. Check your BB. A loose BB cup pops. So does a dirty one. 3. Check your crank arms. Same as above. 4. Clean your chain and cog. Sometimes the dirt causes the chain to make all sorts of noise. Also, check for complete chain wrap on the cog. 5. If it has a cog, check the cog is on there tight. A loose lockring causes the cog to shift and that causes a pop as well if it has worn a groove into the body. 6. It likely is your hub. Halo's weren't designed for trials. The pawls and springs are probably already fairly worn, thus the skipping. A buddy of mine had a halo hub die after only a 2-3 days, and he's a pretty damn smooth guy who's gentle on his stuff. Replace the hub, before you have to replace your teeth. I dunno if I left anything out....

There's a little screw by the blade. It's a 2.5 or 2 mm allen screw. It allows you to adjust lever reach, but it doesn't work like a TPA in that it moves the pads closer to the rotor. If you want that, you have to buy the new hope, with all the knobs and shit on it.

I don't understand why you WOULDN'T put a booster on. Boosters do three things, they protect your rear brake from your foot hitting the crossover and/or lines, enhance brake performance, but they also improve frame/mount life. The frame life pertains mostly with V-Brakes because the surface area isn't as spread out as it is with maggie mounts, but frame life none the less. If you're seeing the frame flex outwards, get a booster. The coust pads working like crap after adding a booster is garbage. I ran coust pads (both "variants" for you people who still believe the michael coust ones are different than the heatsinks) before and after a booster and can tell you my brakes got marginally better with a booster. That person probably didn't know how to set-up his brakes. Actually, every set of pads I've ever ran have been with and without boosters (Monty milk, koxx bloxx, koxx browns, Plaz CRMs, CRVs, coustsinks, and "real" cousts, and probably some others I can't remember) and every time, with a booster has been a massive improvement. Mind you, almost all of those pads are on both V and maggie set-ups. Get a booster.

Not really worth the cost of it to be honest. Unless you have a friend that works at a machine shop, it'll probably cost you over $200 for ONE rotor because of the labor and cost of running the machine. Also, less surface area = worse braking.

What do you mean by "detriment of brake performance"? I use cousts and they work flawlessly with a deep, harsh grind. Well, they work good period, but best with a deep, harsh grind.

I dunno, I did the whole pressing lightly thing, and the grinds although good, don't last long at all by comparison. You're completely right, they are exclusive of each other though, cause you can press hard and not get a "sharp" grind. In the end, I think people are just scared to really learn how to do it. It's not rocket science or even remotely complicated. I don't understand why people don't just try out a grinder on an old rim like suggested and find how it works to "perfect the technique" before moving on to a good rim. Surely a bike shop will GIVE a person a trashed wheel to practice on if they don't have one. Common sense seriously lacks sometimes.

There's a place here in the States called "Ace hardware" and they have literally every size of bolt imaginable. I replaced my bolts with the hardened steel black bolts. Stainless is too soft to really torque on an the heads strip out. These black ones will strip out the allen key before stripping. But just goto a hardware store, bring the bolt with you and find one that is the same. Or, you can call up Hope and just ask them.