rupintart

Don't forget Leech...he's probably getting paid even when doing yoga whilst eating 10000000% organic garden fruits.

Google "brakeforceone". Its a brake deaigned by a trials rider and supposedly more powerful than a hape and half the weight at sub 200g

It is a 2013 model, but iirc, it gets eeleased sometime mid 2012....

For being shot on some point and shoot and by somebody in a crowd, it's actually pretty decent. On the fence about the music, but the content is pretty sick demo footy.

Not really, but they are riding together in a demo:

Aside from the music, that was definitely a rad vid. You look 100000 times better on the inspired than you do on the mod in every aspect.

wow, almost to the bottom with no replies...

Radness x 10

Damn nice distance for 2 weeks. I need to practice my stuff to front more. I recently discovered sidehops to front and it's a nice feeling. Seems like it takes a bit less energy when side hopping at or above bar height. It's effin scary though. Again, awesome progress!

Your style, like canard pointed out, reminds me of TRA....very dynamic and lots of movement. You surprised me a couple times on some of the ups and gaps you did. I was shocked you made some of them cause in some ups and gaps, you looked like you were maxxed out on much lower objects then the next clip comes, it's a bit higher and you max out on it; which is why it surprised me you made it some times. You look the same whether the object is high or low (and near or far), which I've never seen before and is interesting as hell. Eitherway, awesome progress! You've climbed the ladder pretty damn fast.

He broke his wrists years ago. Rode on them while broken against docs orders and rebroke/broke it again. Now he has to wear those wraps when riding.

That booster isn't necessary on that frame although, if it's already on there... Sweet bike though. Only word of caution though is keep an eye on those adapter mounts. I've snapped two in a just under a years time. And if you go to anything with a CNC backing, sans maybe the TNN ones with the recessed cone washer, you'll be using the outer mounting hole, which makes it even more susceptible to snappage from leverage. Sweet bike though, I also have one and she rides like a dream!!!

Style is very interesting to me. You don't have any "tells" when going to front or going to rear on anything. You also do a lot of scary front tap things in your sidehops and gaps. I like it.

+1

They are made with no KNOBS, not grip. They grip fine because they're made of soft rubber and are meant for riders who do more urban and/or people who typically ride only in the dry. Just because it's a slick doesn't mean it can't grip well, look at most BMX tires, they're slick. Look at drag racing tires, they're slick too.

Heat is why. A larger pad disappates the heat, therefore, less pad glaze and brake fade. Goto ANY of the braking websites and they always have to put it in the faq that a larger pad doesn't equate to shorter stopping distances because people feel that a bigger pad increases the friction coefficient, and it doesn't. A bigger disc and caliper exerting more force is how you shorten distances. The only way to stop faster with the same size rotor is a different pad compound or a rotor that exerts more force. That's why a 185 hope trials can lock better than another 185 brake, it has a larger piston in the caliper exerting more force on the pad.

This is exactly the problem when noobs don't take the time to learn the basics (trackstand all 4 ways, then without brakes, being able to balance on different heights, etc.) is the rear wheel is a huge problem. Nearly every person who learns to get balance down first, then and only then, try to get on the back wheel NEVER have problems. The 2 people I've told to learn this way after a month of getting basics down tried to get on the back wheel and it was nearly second nature (which btw, is what I preached when learning). The balance on the rear wheel could be learned within an hour if the balance has a solid foundation to rest upon. It's not just balance, but it's complete awareness of what different situations and weight distributions are like and knowing how to correct it to regain/keep balance. As soon as somebody can learn to know how to handle balancing skills, the rear wheel is easy. Problem is, noobs are so anxious to hop on the rear they end up with a shitty foundation of core skills, then have bad habits, and a year or two down the road are having one hell of a time breaking those habits. Learning properly, in the long run is usually much faster in progression of new skills as there are no/very little bad habits to correct in the process. Like anything learned, if learned properly, it's usually much more fun and far less frustrating. Anybody who plays a musical instrument can relate. You can jump head first into learning your favorite song and be good at that, but absolutely suck at everything else because you didn't take the time to learn the fundamentals. And the person who did learn the fundamentals after a year is far, far better in every aspect and learning new material isn't nearly as painful...

I think a lot of people lose grasp of how incredibly hard those sections were, as well as being muddy and wet, so it's not "up to par" because the pros were actually struggling to complete a section and dabbing and failing rather than just blowing through it like they usually do. I thought it was amazing in that regard. And I second Phil, waiting isn't expensive, especially if it's a free vid.

No other external BB will work. That Echo one is more like a hybrid in that it has external cups, but will only work with that ISIS axle, not external cranks. If you were to go out and buy an external BB, it wouldn't work with that axle and they don't come with axles: So ANY ISIS BB will work. Echo no longer makes that BB, so you're shit outta luck on that one.

I thought the opposite. Something about his style (body language mostly) just kinda turned me off to it. Guy is really good, I just didn't personally like his style.

No, it doesn't. It's a common fallacy that a larger pad = better braking. Larger pads are only better for dissipating heat. There is no surface area in the friction equation: Fr = μN Fr is the resistive force of friction μ is the coefficient of friction for the two surfaces (Greek letter "mu") N is the normal or perpendicular force pushing the two objects together μN is μ times N Fr and N are measured in units of force, which are pounds or newtons. μ is a number between 0 (zero) and ∞ (infinity). In other words, it is just as difficult to move a 1 square-cm object as a 1 square-meter object if they both are pressed to the surface with the same amount of force. The difference in braking power you're noticing is from the friction coefficient from pad compound, not the surface area. Incase that mathematical approach doesn't suffice for you, here's a cut/paste from the Willwood brake website: ---------- Q: Will larger brake pads improve my stopping distances? A: Not necessarily, a larger pad of the same compound in the same location as a smaller pad will not yield shorter stopping distances. The amount of pressure applied, the pad friction coefficient, and the diameter of the rotor at which that pressure is applied, determine the torque reaction, or stopping force. A larger pad does not apply more pressure, only the same pressure over a bigger area. The size of the pad does matter in terms of heat capacity and wear rate. A larger pad will absorb more initial heat, hence less thermal shock, and have better wear characteristics resulting in longer pad life. ------------- So no, a larger pad doesn't help you stop faster in a trials brake application (no nominal generation of heat).

If you haven't ridden much, go based off what you KNOW you like and be 100% honest with yourself in knowing what terrain and style of riding you'll be doing. I.e. no sense in getting a knobby if you're riding urban only. If you find you're doing lots of spins and whatever, you don't need to run low pressure despite what everybody else does. Run it high and take advantage of the lower rolling resistance. With higher PSI you can run tires like Holy Rollers, KHEs or SB8 and not worry as much about flatting because you have higher pressure on your side. No need in getting some beefy front wheel if you're not doing anything really front heavy, save weight. There's so many common sense things that people gloss over in favor of going with what everybody else is using, even if there's a product out there better suited for them. I ran KHE tires and everybody hated them for getting flats, but those same people didn't take advantage of the fact that they can run 120psi in the tire and prevent all those flat. They would run lower pressures because "50psi is more than enough for street". Well obviously it isn't if your tires keep flatting. Also, why would you run anything except a street tire if you're not gonna get off pavement? Simple things like that. Shorter wheelbase = better for spinning and more flicky. Shorter stem also makes it more flicky. Look at BMX bikes, do you ever see them with anything longer than 50mm? There's a reason for that. Like bender said, 50mm may feel like rubbish to some (or does it? As most have never really tried it!) but he really likes it! So just go based of what you KNOW you like and be honest with your riding ability and what you'll really be riding. That's how all the top riders are. They find what works for them and go off what they know, and don't typically follow what everybody else is doing.

Leave it as it. That's OG.

I think the problem is too many people are too scared to go out an experiment on their own to find out what works FOR THEM. Instead, people build up bikes exactly like everybody else's and are satisfied because they think they should be because "this is how everybody else set's it up, so this is ideal." No. Fact of the matter is, not everybody rides the same. Even two people who ride together daily and ride exactly the same will have different preferences so there is NO REASON two bikes should be set-up exactly alike. I'll give you an example. A buddy of mine set up his bike exactly like danny macs, I think the only difference being he ran the right size tubes, and was running Vees instead of a Maggie rear. He ran everything identical down to the amount of spacers under the stem. For me, that bike felt like total shit. But look how well it works for Danny. I rode mostly street too but it didn't fit what I wanted and we (me and my buddy) ride pretty much the same. He did that for two reasons. 1. he worked at a shop and was able to 2. he rides predominantly BMX, so he figured "that'll be how I ride, so I build it like that and be good to go." He too eventually switched to a shorter stem and changed around the tires as well. I think to this day he's still changing shit up to suit his riding more. Another example is when I sold my Inspired it was set-up as like 75/25 street/trials. It was exactly what the new owner wanted ratio wise and he switched it up because he felt it was "too streety." So see, even with the same ratio of riding in mind, what I perceive as streety is too much street for another person. A Hex is your best bet like Ali pointed out. It's everything you're wanting according to your posts. Getting a bike that's not what you're after, and finding you like it only to have the desire to buy another bike is far more expensive than just sucking it up and buying what you really want. Cause even if you don't like it, it's far easier to sell a Hex than it is something else. But even that aside, just go grab something that YOU think would suit you, and just experiment with stems and bars. You'll probably find that what you will like is different than what others like and be happier in the end.

Agreed. That video as a riding video was absolute shit. It was boring and didn't beg you to go riding like other vids do. From a production and cinematography standpoint though, it was epic and amazingly well shot. It's not really a vid to watch to go ride, it's more something that plays in the background of a shop on a TV or any other place with a High Def TV.