freind zone

thankyou it's like a sideways manual i guess, your constantly stood behind the apex of the swing, took me a fair few months to get the basics. i've been slacking for 2 years now. it's good fun

2 weeks off work, i should be waterlining but its banned, i'm still out often and my surfing is gettomg solid now

Ride the thing! but the first things you should look at changing are the bars and stem (go for an over-sized set up) ZOO! or trialtech bars, montys or try all if you can afford . getting some lighter forks will make a massive difference, echo urbans should do you fine

they come with roundagons, but the cleansweep rotors are meant to offer a sharper performance

cause that suites his budget.. are you building up a new bike? or are you looking t replace your current brakes? you won't get much for 40-50 quid unless you buy 2nd hand. the obvious choice is maguras at £60 a pop there not cheap, and the stock brake pads are useless so its more like £80 a piece without boosters, or fancy leverblades or braided cables. Otherwise you could go for vees, t-pros don't have vee mounts (unless theres an oldschool model that does?) so you'd need adapters, plus the actual brake, avid gear is ussualy prety good, you get what you pay for so it helps to buy a good set up, SD7 levers are popular with most riders (you can adjust the cable pull ratio, which is cool) sd5 or sd7 calipers are prety good, but the important thing is to buy a decent cable! a shit cable will make an avid ultimate setup feel like tat.

stick with the avid rotors, or use them till you destroy them, no point creating expense... ideally use SD7 levers over avid FR levers adjusting pull ratio on the levers is awesome

theres more than just peformance to a brake i've never had a go with avid juicys but i've felt them on mtbs and they seem prety good, assuming your using them for trials, have you considered the hope trial brake? I've ran a bb7 rear for trials i can't really fault it, has shitloads of power can also modulate fairly well if manuals are your thing there also the perk that you can replace parts easily, you don't have to bleed a cable, so you can't contaminate pads. you can buy a brake cable at any bikeshop, not everywhere will have a bleed kit to hand. carrying spares for a mechanical brake is alot easier than having a bleed kit and fluid too, just invest in a pair of good cable cutters, not your dads rusty one, it'l munch your cable outer and look unclean

Freehubs increase chain life by reducing wear cause it's not spinning all the time. if you have the money, buy a good freehub, profile or king, avoid the echo/zoo/gu ones on tarty you won't save yourself any money cause you'll get sick of it skipping. you could run a rear freewheel, but you'd have to run like 24-16 or 27-18 to acheive the 1.5-1 ratio most mod riders use!

It's a well made frame, similar to a PR would probably outlast it. esp with the runners that support the bash plate. there are better frames, but unless your riding at a high level you wouldnt be held back...

why not? the t-bird geo isn't bad, the bike just never feels nice cause of the poor components on it...

ptfe tape on the axle, but in my experiance onza unsealed hubs don't last to long after the cones start to move, if you neglect them they will chomp into the bearings and lock up the hub