DYAKOV

I don't really have much experience with stock bikes but definitely go for a long wb if it's a mod mate. I am around 171-172cm and my personal preference is for a short wb... but being 180cm and over will be a pain to ride! Do you not have any friends around whom you can ask to try out different bikes/geos and see what feels most comfy?

You mean a rim brake yeah? That should be fine if you're not using a brake booster/washers etc.. also double check for retapped threads, cos people tend to go M6 instead of helicoil...

way too many punctuation marks mate

Right, so there isn't a rule what size stem and bars to use. It all depends on the frame length (measured as wheelbase) and the chainstay, your height, and your personal preference. Some people like long bikes while others like short bikes. 150x30 stems are sort of universal and that's why lots of people use them by default. I've used different size stems on different bikes that I've had. You just need to experiment and see what works best for you. In general (as to my understanding) the longer chainstay you have, the more it will pull you down when staying on a back wheel. That's why you'd use a shorter stem with a lower rise angle, so you'd pull your front end higher/closer to your body and vice versa. Then rotating your bars (depending on the backsweep as well which is usually 10 degrees) will help for your balance respectively: having it vertical will help you easily pull the bike for pedal ups and bunny hops and having it rotated forward makes it more comfortable for static moves such as pedal kick, side hop, surge etc.. Hope that helps!

to be honest I can't fault it mate! They were notorious for leaking but with all racing line bits (blade, piston, fittings) it works as it should and is quite comfy as well. Plus being all cnc and universal left or right hand makes it ideal I think.

After a long time riding newer style bikes I sourced and built this fine example of a mod from back in the days? Spec is: Monty 221pr frame Monty handlebars Echo 150x30? stem Viz? disc & vee forks monty rims on front hope and rear chrisking hubs in maxxis tyres echo "dengura" lever with magura 2011+ slaves, echo sl clams & echo sl 2 bolt brake booster avid sd7 lever and vee arms, shimano cables adm in metal backings front and rear tritech forged cranks, trialtech 18t sprocket, tartybikes bash ring, onza hognesium pedals Looks and rides nice! Quite heavy to be honest and I can do with new bars and new drivetrain set but but that's as good as I could do for a start. Thanks to @old boy chez @Marcus Chapman @isitafox @murga and other sound lads who provided me with the good parts for decent prices! Jason is a top seller! Marcus always has the bits you need, not the first time I'm buying from him. Cheers, Nas

I've always had water bled brakes and I've noticed they feel a lot firmer and more responsive as well! My perfect setup is with echo/zoo/adamant (dengura) cnc blades but nobody seems to have them any more... Anyway, I'm running adm's in tnn backings. Will cut them a bit as they are worn a bit uneven, hope that helps.

Yeah same here. It's an old monty frame with an integrated booster and I put on a wee echo 2 bolt booster as well, so shouldn't be the frame but that makes sense mate. I'll try to give it another bleed just in case and see how I get on...

Hi all, I was just wondering if the 4 finger blades normally feel a bit softer or is it my bad luck again? I've tried having them on 2-3 different brakes (hs33's) and it always feels softer than the standard magura or echo cnc'd ones. However, this time I'm having all the good bits, so it's not a dodgy setup and it still feels like the brake has air in it, although I just bled it... Is there anything I'm missing?

Hi there, I'm currently looking for some mod parts and am willing to buy. Can you tell what spares you have and I'll offer you prices on these? Cheers!

Haven't read all the comment, so sorry if I'm going against anybody but if you're saying you don't want to spend a lot on the bike maybe you'll consider this: My point is you don't really need the streety bits to do streety moves on it as it is mate

On here

How do I leave feedback on a seller? I remember there was a way of doing it but I couldn't find the button for it. Has that option been removed? Cheers, Nas

What hub are you running on the back mate?

Loving this! This is exactly the style I'll be going for with my new bike! Good job mate

Hi dude, I had old echo lite forks from the good ones back in the days.. The steerer was half way snapped, so I got a custom extension made which was fitted quite tight in the original tube, then tightened even more with a headlock and welded just to make sure it stays there. After 10 min riding the steerer snapped and I smashed my elbow on the ground. Similar situation with my handlebar extensions... I also had a half stripped thread on an echo forged crank, so again I used a custom made insert to hold my pedal better (similar to the onza muscleman cranks) and I'm sure you can guess what happened wasn't very nice. I've also made 4 bolt to V adapters, brake boosters, top caps and small bits like this.. I can give many examples but from experience I would suggest: If you like home made stuff like me, go ahead, I totally support thinking people who can use tools and machinery to make their own parts BUT make sure you start and make something from scratch rather than trying to fix a stock part which is already broken, most likely it will be painful

Hi dude, I started reading through the comments but they were getting more and more massive as I scrolled down, so apologies if I'm saying something twice! I had an A3 frame for a bit and it was okay but nothing special. First of all, if you are looking for a lifetime frame, then go for this one - it will never crack! Presuming it's one of the older models it's a bit heavier too (thick U6 aluminium tubing). Other than that, the integrated booster actually worked (I think) which nowadays is built almost for decoration purposes only. The bb was mid height which made it more universal for streety lines along with the pure trialsy stuff. What I didn't like the most was how long it felt! I am 172cm tall and although I was riding with almost flat bars (the old zoo low risers) it really felt like a stock with bent forks and 20" wheels. It's not just the wheelbase being long but the chainstay was 360 as far as I remember. In general, if this will be a first bike I'd say buy it depending on condition and price, suggesting price around £200-£220? You can always upgrade parts once you find out for yourself what feels comfy and what needs got rid of

I had my old limey drilled as you suggest and there was no issue at all I am away from home though and am missing my tools, so was looking for a more simple solution. I did eventually run the hoses as shown in the first picture on top of the page and am very pleased with the look Cheers guys!

That's what I was trying to do at first, but there isn't much clearance on the mod cause the seat tube/tail is inclined to the back and blocks the space there... So I need to bend those hoses even closer as they come out of the slaves whereas I'd prefer a more simple and natural shape. Another idea is to run them outside of the seatstay like here: Do you think that would be problematic catching them with my shoes when pedaling?

I am trying to figure out the best way to install a splitter on my rear brake and I thought it would be helpful if people showed me pictures of their setups and especially how they run the hoses around the seatstays. I can think of a few ways to do that but I'm not really happy with any of them. Think it's just the frame design that's not suitable because of the tail it has... (because color) So can I ask for some advice or pictures to see what works best? Thanks!

1000 / 55 / 380

I'm not sure if there is any difference between the yabaa model and the koxx but I can find out the geo of the yabaa if you want? Just messaged a friend and will get back to you when he tells me but he's quite happy with it

I am not an engineer but currently am reading structural decisions in architecture which has a lot in common with stresses and bending moments. From designer's and mechanical points of view, this blade design looks ridiculously stupid being unnecessarily complicated purely aesthetically and as a manufacturing process (there your money goes). And having the inward bend of the second wall (closer to the bars when mounted) makes it weaker on that point too. Somebody already said it's been tested a lot, so there should be no issues with that but to me the old echo cnc'd blades (2007 I think) are the best providing a decent leverage and comfy as f**k!

great video mate!

I wouldn't weld the disc mount as its quite close to the dropouts of the frame. Temperature might weaken the welds there and you will soon get cracks appearing around that spot. I might be wrong, of course, but I have welded many frames before and none of them lasted me long after that... Can't say much about the spec of your 24" but that control frame looks sweet!