hdmackay

This what you need? http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?pr...;category_id=53

Either, 1) Buy pads with a smaller amount of material, or cut your current ones down. 2) Get a new BB with a longer axle 3) Get shorter cranks maybe. If you ride mod, 160mm cranks and a 127.5mm BB axle should be fine for any amount of pad life.

Yeah, think i'll do that. Don't like the sound of the idea of heating up my frame!

I made a topic on this a few weeks ago. http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....=143356&hl= Your answer will be in there

I don't have one though.

I don't think that would do you much good to be honest.

Good work. That's a pretty huge sidehop.

That's when Deng was awesome and made reliable, strong parts. So i've been told.

True But i've heard...

Bashplate bolts M6 x 20.

Haha, sounds about right. However, had that been in 2004-2006 that would have been a whooole different story.

Ahh, ok. So if I put it in completely dry it won't seize in or anything? Hmm... I can't really justify paying £35 for a tool i'll use about twice a year though. Ahh Scott, that won't be neccessary. I don't have one of those gay deng headsets where the bearings are fixed in the cups.

I dunno. Not tried yet, haha. just wondering incase I don't use any grease and the cup gets stuck and won't come back out when the time comes.

Don't have a vice, so will have to hammer. Cheers though. Also, are you meant to grease headset cups/ headtubes when fitting?

Alright, cheers everyone. Guess i'll give it a shot. So.. Place cup on headtube, wood over cup, hammer. Jobs a good' un. ... riiiight? I'll give it a bash myself, and if I fail that would be awesome thanks.

I'm wanting to fit my headset cups myself using a block of wood and a hammer, but i've heard various people say that it can quite easily flare your headtube. That is the very last thing I want to happen. So would you reccommend it? I could go to my LBS, but if it's ok to do myself I owuld prefer because it's alot quicker and cheaper. Thanks

Why? I say keep them on, because the more you take CNC backings on and off the harder they are to get back on I find. Maybe it's just me. Lol But yeah, definatelly worth the extra money man. Better lever feel, better brake performance, Cheaper in the long run, less play, and they won't snap on you like plastic backings sometimes do. ONLY disadvantage is that after a long time they sometimes snap your piston. I've seen it happen to two of my mates.

Think i'll stick with leaving the tyre on. Thanks for the tip anyway though.

1:24 - 1:27 in that the stock Billocks vid, looks like someone is having a wank.

Thank you so much guys.

He rides mod though. Different gearing to stock. Most mods are 18:12 with a front freewheel, If you want a rear freewheel then to get it to feel the same as 18:12 you'll need a 27 tooth chain ring which is just stupid.

Managed to get it to kinda play. Insane riding! Love your style so so so much. Would really like a youtube version though.

Thank you sooo much for that. I think it's really gonna help. Just a couple of questions, Quite alot of people say to do both sides clockwise so it holds in both directions, do you find doing both sides anticlockwise (for maggies) is better than that? And I take it you only grind each side in one direction yes? You don't do the back and forth method? And how long will a grind like that last you roughly?

Video keeps on jamming on my computer. I think it's because it's such good quality.