Kieran24

I haven't read all the replies in this thread so sorry if any of this has already been mentioned. At first the lever seems like a brilliant idea, but just thinking about it for a few minutes I can think of a few problems, so I'll list them and perhaps you can take them into consideration. -If I try pushing down on a conventional lever it is rather uncomfortable, requiring me to loosen my grip and move my fingers quite a bit, push down on the top of the lever with just the tips and it also means I'd only be gripping the bar with my thumb. -There is the chance of accidentally pushing the wrong brake. If the down stroke is applied to the front brake and the normal to the rear, in the event of an emergency brake as the rider pulls the rear hard they may also push the lever down, and everyone knows whacking the front brake on sharply is bloody dangerous. -In most situations just a front brake would be sufficient, a skilled cyclists will rarely use the rear brake over the front. You say this is designed for those with disabilities, what sort of disability denies you the use of your hand to such an extent that you cannot operate a brake lever, yet you can still hold the handle bar safely. I'm sure there are probably some, just none came to mind. -The same basic principle can be achieved much easier, cheaper and safer. For example, to compliment a normal brake lever another can be installed on the end of the bar, such as those used on ergo bars on road bikes, which would be operated with the two outer fingers. This would allow individual control of each brake as well as the possibility to accurately apply both at once and will also allow the bar to be gripped safely while operating the brakes.

You bought ( no 'r') 3 bikes in two months, seriously? When I was in the same situation as the OP I couldn't go around trying out bikes as no-one round here rides trials, instead I based my choice partly by seeing what type of trials I'd be mostly likely to ride. I don't remember which are more suited to which style of riding, maybe someone who's been riding longer could explain it, but I chose mod as I thought I'd be doing more TGS style riding and because I'd been riding a BMX for so long that I'd gotten use to the smallness of a mod.

Is there any other thought behind this, or is it just one of those things you do because you can? If you do go ahead with it you'd need a new stem with a lower rise, you'd be buying two different sizes of tubes and tires which is just awkward, the wheel would be weaker and heavier than a 20" equivalent, you'd have a super high bb rise and it would look pretty stupid. By all means try it out just for the hell of it if you have a spare wheel laying about, but don't pour money into something that won't be worthwhile.

18 lbs is hella light, mines 25 lbs and feels too light sometimes as I come from a BMX background riding a 28 lb bike.

Seems they've gone now, but they were the same ones as Pashley posted, were going for around £120ish.

Are these the ones? http://www.cycleworld.co.uk/product/6602/C...tty_Rigid_Forks

First time I've ventured into this thread or the old one, I have to say I expected better, 2:00am is hardly late for me, haven't gone to bed before then for around 6+ months now (probably looking at a few years since I've been before midnight). Maybe I'd be more suited to an early morning thread.

I knew the last bit was a joke, wasn't too sure about the 30 minutes thing.

Loved it, first bail was high-larry-us aswell. What's the tune?

30 minutes?, probably not even possible. Takes my dad about an hour to go from Hertford to Grays in Essex, about a 50 or so mile trip. You're on about doing closer to 340 miles in half the time, crazy talk.

From looking at pictures of them it looks like you be able to drill out the hole on the crank arm bigger and tap it, then insert the tensile thingy. Possibly.

I think he was on about the OP's rim with the tiny counter sinking, not even holes.

No buying and selling in NMC.

Near?, he's pretty much at the other end of the country.

Tarty have a load of hubs at half price around £50, may be worth a look.

Switching your leading foot may help. I've noticed I can pedal kick far easier with my left than my right, makes it a bit awkward having to switch for just one move, but it could help you to get it up so you can find your balance point, making it easier to switch to your good foot as you progress.

I'd say almost any brake has atleast half an inch of adjustability, and not to forget that the wheel can be slid back and forth in the dropouts and the shortened/lengthened.

I've always been under the impression that anything that won't fit through a letter box has to be signed for, regardless of first class or standard, as this would be the only way to ensure that the package had been delivered and not just left on the doorstep and stolen. If this is the case the a call to Royal Mail with your receipt in hand should sort it.

Meh, I just got it off wikipedia, I don't use it in my day to day life so have no reason to remember it. Still, if they pick your's I win, my idea

White - #FFFFFF Yellow - #FFFF00

Mine would probably be when I went to do a bubaca on a curb but kinda forgot to use my brake, so instead I jsut slipped backwards and fell on my arse. Good thing about it was that it got a fart out of me that I'd been wanting to do all day but couldn't.

I still have a luna on the rear, I actually love it. Didn't realise about the Meta, seems like a bit of a stupid name really, but I'm kinda new to the whole sport so would have been none the wiser.

Even on a decent setup with some air in the system the brake will still tend to lock, will just feel more 'spongy' and require more lever travel, so re-bleeding will most likely be a last resort. First thing to check would be whether the pads are close enough to the rim, 2-3mm should suffice. This can easily be changed by undoing the mounts slightly and just pushing the cylinders further in. Second cause of shitty brakes could be the frame flexing. In this case you'll have to get a booster but they're fairly cheap, my frame flexes like a bitch though but my brake still holds well enough.

What I don't get is why a magazine that is so specialised (mod trials instead of just trials) would then go on to mention mototrials. Also, it's 'explained'.

I think he's on about the bolts on the end of the chain tensioners not being lock nuts (never actually seen any that are) so the are coming loose and not stopping the axle from sliding forward in the frame. A solution to this would be to get new nuts as the thread may just be knackered in the old ones, or even to give lock nuts ago, shouldn't cost much at all from a hardware store. If that doesn't work then new tensioners can be had for around a tenner or so. Failing all that you could turn to snail cams, but having never used them I understand that they are frame dependent as a bolt must be screwed into the dropout.