monkeyseemonkeydo

Lighter, innit.

Can you not model it quickly in excel or something and see what the sum of the first 15, 30, 50 or whatever terms tends towards?

Burnt Candy Orange is always good: Or that nice Candy Green like Chris Forster had his Skye painted, similar to this:

I think the Christian fish really sets it off and screams 'HARDCORE'...

Any Nitromors you buy now will have had all the good stuff (read nasty chemicals that were good at removing paint) removed making it far less effective. I think you'll need to look for a more industrial stripper to work on anything beyond rattle can paint jobs now.

That would be telling.

Cool beans, cheers guys. May have a play and see what happens. Could probably actually turn the freehub body itself down a little (leaving enough thread of course) to give some extra room. Bit of a project I guess.

Out of interest, does he acid dip/prep the items first? I assume it costs more if you provide a powdercoated part rather than just raw etc.?

I did not know you could specify what site Google searches in. Most useful- cheers Ad!

BUMP What did you end up doing with the Pro2 and spoke tensioner? Would quite like to go that route but not keen on messing around with a spacer on the inside of the frame... boss on the dropout/hanger is doable though.

So you're sure then?

Fair enough.

So why didn't you want to hit it with a hammer? :confused: Bear in mind that if you mushroom the end of the 116 axle you may have a job getting the bearing off without filing it back first.

Tighten a bolt into the end of the axle first (right in so the bolt head is flush with the axle end) so you're not hitting the aluminium axle directly.

You're not missing much. Poor quality phone video on a narrow back road spinning up the wheels and eventually losing it fairly gently at about 10mph without hitting anything too hard.

You might be lucky for a while with a new/stretched chain but really you'll need a tensioner. I initially ran my mk1 with a 74Kingz (Heatsink these days I guess) and currently run a Rohloff on my 2011. Spoke tensioners depend on your setup really. I had a look at putting one on my Pro2 setup and couldn't really see it working as everything's a bit tight.

You sure it's not your network settings? Someone set up a static IP that isn't compatible with your router or something? Also run msconfig and see what sort of crap is running in the background. Hide Microsoft services and see what else is going on.

Haven't read the whole thread so sorry if it's been said... Grinding rims makes your bike lighter every time, this will surely add weight...

I think that's the biggest issue in my mind- the fact that he spent so long playing the golden boy swearing he would never use anything when all the time the lying cunt was cheating his was to the top every step of the way. The bastard clearly has no morals and is a disgrace of a human, let alone 'athlete'. The people and papers etc. he sued who tried to uncover the truth is unbelievable for that alone he deserves to lose everything.

Loving the story about the Australian bookshop who put a sign up saying they would shortly be moving all Lance's books to the fiction section! Classic.

I dunno actually- the shell body looks the same shape as a Pro2 which would indicate internals... in which case I'll get back in my box

But it's just a fixed hub. The thread is trying to get a Pro2 freehub to work on a mod. A hope fixed hub will be no different (except more expensive) than any other. Nice touch with the sprocket mounting but still not a Pro2.

It depends how the tyre is measured. If the carcass is the same but you've now got an extra 5mm of tread depth then that might be enough to make a difference. When my folks put winter tyres on their Nissan Juke it caused the ABS to play silly buggers because the wheel circumference was different enough to screw up the wheel speed sensors.

That's not quite the same though...

People actually use Google+?