monkeyseemonkeydo

For info this is a push bike trials forum rather than moto but there should be nothing stopping you removing the cover and replacing the gasket- all the springy bits are contained as part of the clutch assembly. Obviously drain the oil first to minimise mess. Also worth checking out why it's leaking in the first place- if it's just an old gasket that's disintegrating then fair enough but if there's corrosion on the engine casing or cover you might want to clean things up a bit before replacing the gasket.

Nope.

Just watched the 2nd one and it was very nearly as bad as the first in my opinion. Cringeworthy in places, the interview side of things is just shit and random, the Africa trip was pointless and missed out on sections that could've made it remotely interesting and just overall very unimpressed. Most likely won't bother with the next one. The single redeeming feature was Jenson.

I run SLX cranks on my Arcade with a 24T ring and really can't fault them at all, especially for the price! I went from the Hussefelts and the Shimano's just seem far more 'designed' and more refined.

Same as with the Scottish one (which I didn't get to vote in being an adopted southern softie)- the risk of leaving with no clue how things might work out just isn't worth it. Again like the Scotland thing I think we've already got a fairly good deal going and the power to have our cake and still eat at least some of it.

Come on then, someone's got to bring it up... How shite was that first 'new' show then? It just seemed cheesy and lacklustre to me. Even without really having a strong opinion beforehand I'd all but given up after 20 minutes and just had it on in the background while doing other stuff.

I'll give you £50 for it, mush.

I tried masking tape, ABS slurry, Pritt Stick, various temperatures etc. and just couldn't make it work nicely whereas PLA just worked perfectly from the off so haven't bothered with ABS again.

I never managed to get ABS to work on mine. It would always warp even though the printer has a heated buildplate and was just a pain compared to PLA.

Well it depends how you print it. If you printed it as drawn above you'll get a good finish on the external surface but the detail of the number in the hollow could be either a bit rough if not supported or if you use a support system for the overhung elements (and assuming you don't use dissolvable support material on a second extruder) there will be some awkward cleaning up to do around the details in there. If you printed it on its side you should be able to get a good finish on the the majority but would still need some support built in for the overhanging lower side of the part that will need at least a bit of sanding to clean up...

Something worth considering early on is that you might struggle to get a great finish on that sort of design without some 'post processing'...

You could but it's a bit more of a bodge...

Yeah, definitely print the plain bore then tap the thread into the part. At M10 you should be fine with thread strength for your application.

The other option would be to use M10 brass inserts along these lines: You can then use a soldering iron or whatever to melt them into the print material and leave behind a nice captive thread which will give good positive location. Tapping at M10 shouldn't be a problem though so long as you give the build enough wall thickness to take the thread nicely. These are only M3's but you get the idea:

http://www.vitalbmx.com/news/news/Dave-Mirra-A-Heros-Death-CTEs-Arrival,8919 Dave Mirra confirmed as suffering from CTE.

My only issue is that I feel guilty for not riding the Arcade! The Echo's so much easier to throw around over rocks though! I am kind of agreeing with the grips. Don't think I'd go to something like that on the Inspired but am tempted to try some thinner grips on my full bounce MTB.

I gave the brakes another quick water bed in and took the bike to Portland a couple of times at the weekend and to be honest I'd say they're very comparable to Hope Trials in power and feel. I haven't found anything else I'd change. I didn't think I'd get on with the grips (quite thin foam ones) but having ridden the bike a few times I'm quite happy with them.

It's not something daft like the kill switch not being attached/in the right position? But yeah, firstly get that regulator mounted onto the frame somewhere.

Awesome stuff! Everything looks so dialed.

It really is. When you take shipping into account you can't even get one for that from some dodgy dude on Aliexpress! There's basically nothing you need to upgrade from what I can tell- all good quality parts with sealed hubs, pimpy rims, Maxxis tyres etc. I changed the pads to Trialtech's because I've got some on the back of my Arcade and have been amazed by how much difference they made (went from a 180 rotor on standard pads to a 160 with Trialtechs with no issues) but I imagine once bedded in the standard pads are probably fine with the 20". Really can't complain!

http://www.redbullracing.com/article/new-line-spain http://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/formula1/36206848

Geo as far as I know is Wheelbase: 995mm Chainstay Length: 350mm BB Rise: +80mm Headtube Angle: 73° Reach: 595mm And I'm about 182cm (that's how you Europeans do it isn't it?!), 5'11.5" in old money. Didn't even look at the geometry to be fair, just swayed by the bargainous price!!

Cool beans, thanks again for the info. I'll stick with the Echo's for now and give them a harsh bed in and see where that gets me.

Yeah I was thinking that. They're definitely still not overly bitey so will stick the other pads in and have a proper crack at bedding the rotors in with water and if all else fails I may just get a pair of RT66's... I haven't really seen much about the brakes except that the rotors are, as you say, pretty hard material- should they do the job like a Hope or similar once properly bedded in or with different rotors or will they always be a little weaker than the big brands?