monkeyseemonkeydo

That number's all you need to know to order a new bearing. Have you tried ebay? People sell a few on there. If not, I got new bearing's for my profiles from SMB Bearings. Cheap and quick. Tel: 01993 842555 or e-mail smb.bearings@virgin.net. Dave

I know what you mean, that's why I ride for fun now and for myself. If I started comparing my riding with CLS or Neil T I'd quit straight away. Riding for me has always been about me against an obstacle, pushing my own limits. That doesn't mean I'm not inspired by watching those guys, or Matt for that matter, but at the end of the day I'm always going to ride to push myself rather than compete with anyone else. And as for that 64" sidehop Matt... I seriously hope that was to pedal. Otherwise I quit!!! :( Dave

Surely he hooked it if it was that high? Dave

The main thing to remember on mod's is that it's so much easier to bunnyhop. For smaller ups a touch can be used but due to the 'dodginess' because of the small wheels and the limits of what's possible due to wheelbase issues they have limitations. I can stick a tap in on mod up to about 45" or so, then it just feels wrong. But then I just pedal hop up stuff or bunnyhop it to back wheel. Dave

I'd have to say Hayes all the way. The HFX9 XC (or whatever it's called) is a fantastic brake for the money. Stupidly easy to set up and Hayes are really 'fit and forget': no bleeding or faffing, just perfect power and modulation. Dave

heheh, just imagine if I learnt to tuck properly!! :turned:" Dave

Haha, can you not tell from people's reactions that you're a sidehop monster Damon?! I'd say 'high' sidehops have taken a new turn with Craig and Neil's efforts but for us mere mortals it's a different story! On stock I can probably do a bit over 45" and a bit higher on mod. Dave

I'm loving Fletch's gurns while attempting that static gap to rail!! Heheh, nice pics though. That backwheel by Nick looks bigger than 53"... Dave

I only learnt them a couple of weeks ago but I can happily do 50" every time with a nice run up and a good flat wall to hit. I'm still not tapping properly though and I can probaby make 50" without a tap at all :"> . Can't wait to get them dialled though :lol: Dave

Hehe, I love people's different perceptions of trials! To me the wierd bikes and lycra is where trials has come from, and (probably without the lycra) is where it will always have a hold for a long time to come. The UK seems to have a very unique scene where 'shit bmx' is king and those who ride observed trials (the act of completing sections without putting your feet down in the most efficient manor) are thought of as freaks! Meh. As for the Vinco, it's certainly another break from the norm and looks rather well thought out. I'm still unsure of the value of super high BB's other than ground clearance when rolling over large round rocks in UCI comps... How do they ride when attempting hooks, taps, gaps etc? Dave

Terry Grave's told me recently that Benito gets his dad to make them and each rim takes him about 12 hours or something rediculous to hand file the holes square!! Dave

Ok, fair enough. That wasn't made very clear in the initial post. Sorry for the misunderstanding. Dave

There should be 16 'recent submissions' pics which include the frame pics. If not go to Gallery>Bike kit Dave

Ok, this one's for anyone who can do manual to 180's...how?! I'm getting really sick of watching BMX vids where they can do them so effortlessly! I simply can't get the appropriate spin without the front wheel on the ground. are there any tips to getting them other tahn simply practicing until I can do them?! Cheers, Dave

Just go to trials-nation and the pics are on the front page. Just to clarify what I said before, the stickers used on those 'stolen' (Y) frames look like official Toxsin stickers, and in my mind that makes them nothing but official Toxsin's. If someone wanted to steal the designs and release the frame themselves they would release them as Nisxot's or something! Could be wrong but this thread looks rather suspect to me. Dave

Has it been cracked for a while? I've never snapped a stem because I regularly check it for cracks... the stem is one thing I never want to have snap on me! I did crack about 3 Monty X-lite stems last year though... Dave

Surely if someone steals a frame design, they wouldn't put stickers on it of the company they stole them off?!! That would be feckin' stupid... (Y) Unconvinced. Dave

I think both moves are probably slightly easier on shorter bikes. A short bike for front hooks means you can bunny hop into it which gives more scope for faster run ups and therefore higher walls, plus once you've hooked the front wheel it should be less effort to get the rest of the bike up. Same goes for 'pause hops' as you call them. A shorter bike requires less effort to throw the bike up and onto the back wheel. Good question actually! I can't really remember how my old Monty used to feel... I know I prefer longer bikes at the moment, but not because it makes those two mentioned moves any easier. Dave

Sorry to keep contradicting people but again I have to disagree! All my frames cracked at welds, not through the tabs themselves. This indicates that thicker mounts would not solve the problem. The only (alloy) frame which didn't crack was my old Megamo Equip Pro which had the neat stress transfer brace in the rear triangle which seemed to work very well. In fact that frame cracked on the driveside!! As for the monty I thought it was a bit of a joke when it came out- It looks rather poorly designed at distributing stress. Cesar's the only person I've seen who's brave enough to use it, and I expect he gets a new frame at least once a month! Just my opinions! Dave

Unfortunately it's not a case of being smooth though. I found one of the worst things for my frame was hopping/booning up a sloped rock while using the brake, which means the brake is effectively trying to rip itself off the frame with smoothness not even a factor. One major plus of running rear discs is that it makes you seem a much smoother rider, simply due to the absence of braking noise. However I stand by my judgement that for comps discs rule, anything else (particularly big gaps and the like where confidence is a must) forget it! Dave

What the hell's going on with that backwards manual?!! I've seen them done with freecoaster's but never that far with a normal hub...insane! Here's another vid to add to the list. Nothing special, just a vid made by some Scottish locals (Y) Dave

It looks like you need to look where you're spinning and twist your upper body more to make the 2nd spin. Also putting some more air in your rear tire may help too. The move needs to be done as one move, using the momentum from the first half to carry you through the second... Dave

I ran a disc on the back of my mods for a couple of years. It was great at comps, when everyone else was moaning about their maggies not working, mine stayed perfect. However when it came to big street stuff, I never really trusted it. With a rim brake you can grind the rim or add tar to make the brake work better, with a disc if it doesn't work, it doesn't work! I also had the frame issue when using alloy frames...cracked about 3 Echo EM2's by using a rear disc :"> I'm now happily using a maggy on the back of both my trials bikes and find them very responsive and reliable. Doubt I'll ever go back to a rear disc. Dave

18:15 :( Feels about right for me. Can get the power for short run up stuff and also gives enough power to do big gaps (pedal and static) Dave

Don't listen to Tic, unless you too are of Hobbit proportions! I have almost always run 18:12 with 158's and if it's good enough for Ot and Cesar it's good enogh for me! Had a short stint with 20:13 with 158's but only to try sort out my chain length in the absence of a half link. 18:12's always given me enough power to backwheel big stuff (~48") and pedal gap 10ft plus. Dave