monkeyseemonkeydo

I'm really happy with the Zoot geo- feel like I can mess around with spinny streety type stuff but can also keep up with most when it comes to 'proper' trials. I'm running 18/14 with 165 cranks which was a little harder than I'm used to for trials but have got used to it and am happy with it. Dave

D'oh. Ah well, at least you won't see the Scot's burning cars and rioting just because they lost...

Hell yeah.

Video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video video. Please.

There used to be a free 'student' version of ProDesktop available for download from their site but I don't know what the score is now. I personally use something a bit special which I'm not going to name on here but it's very good Solidworks is quite a good package but not my favourite.

Threads don't get toleranced. 1.37" x 24 tpi is what it is. The die used for tapping that thread is as accurate as the tool makers make it, end of story. Dave

lol

Depends how old and battered it is and what components it's got. If you're talking just a frame though I'd say no... Do you have any pics? Dave

The real question you should all be asking is what would jesus do?

Dunno if this is much use but for something simlar to what you're talking about (totally different topic) I used the following structure. Introduction What it says on the tin, introduce the topic and the reason a lit review is necessary. Justification Again, giving very brief info on the papers you've chosen and why you've chosen them. Why are they relevant? What areas do they look into? Overview Using necessary sub-headings, discuss fairly briefly what is contained within each paper and their conclusions and findings. State any reservations the author has with the work or any issue's you've picked up on but don't go too far. Critical Reflection This is where you can start being critical of the papers, picking up on problems you can see and any discrepancies between the papers. It's about picking holes without being too nasty... I used the same sub-headings as the previous section so that it all kinda relates and flows a bit better. Discussion This is a kind of summary of what you've found out. I basically did a paragraph on each of the papers/topics, indicating the shortcomings of their work but also the positive, useful aspects. Concluding Comments Short and sweet indicating whether you've sussed out what you hoped to in the Introduction... References Finally, you need to list the publications you've cited in the text. Hope that's of some use to you... Dave

Inspired all the way! Or a zoot if you want that long low and UCI look

I don't know what you boys are doing wrong... I've had mine for over a month and it hasn't moved once, only had to re-tension it due to chain stretch. However, if you do still have issues one of the guys on OTN drilled and tapped two grub screws through the tensioner which he locks down onto the axle after setting the position. Worked for him. Dave

Yes... where?!

On a flat level road you can pretty much say that any GPS verified speed is virtually 100% accurate. You should find that your speedo over reads by around 8-10% so 32-33 at 30, 44 at 40, 54-55 at 50 etc etc.

MTX Mototrax is pretty fun. Kept me busy for a while anyway...

And have been for years.

So glad that they're there to improve safety and not just to catch people to make money...

Most of the top guys have mechanics (who usually double as minders at comps). As examples off the top of my head, I'm pretty sure Chris Doney and Ben Savage never touch their bikes or do any work on them (especially at big comps like the World's). Their 'minders' (read 'dad's') do it for them. Lets the rider concentrate on what he does best while knowing the bike's in as good condition as possible.

Umm, use the snail cams to staighten the wheel in the frame... if it's going to the left, loosen off the cam in the left dropout a touch and tighten the one on the driveside a bit.

If only I had a big bag of shutthehellup... ah well.

Are you asking me? It was on the 24th August just South of Penrith. Taken them a while to catch up with me due to me being in a hire car. There were two rozzer vans on bridges over the motorway within a couple of miles and I kind of expected to get done by one... Sucked because I'd just got back from Canada, having been delayed for 27 hours in Toronto thus missing my connecting flights thus having to hire a car to drive from Glasgow to Southampton with about 4 hours sleep in the previous 48 hours... fun.

I can dream.

You used to dream about meeting someone's mechanic...? Strange child.

As has been said, speedo's MUST over-read when they leave the factory. It's illegal for a manufacturer to sell a car that reads slower than you're actually driving so they compensate by adding a good 7-10% on. However, funnily enough they do seem to 'come back' at higher speeds. My dad's car is like 10% out accross the usual speeds to 70 but bump it up to 150 and it matches his GPS... interesting. I've just been done for speeding on the M6, doing 86 which musta been reading like 94 on the speedo. Oops. I blame the rental car company- was supposed to have a 1.6 focus and they upgraded me to a 2.2TD Mondeo ST. Meh.

No, he was talking to you- I was just answering his questions