Jump to content

monkeyseemonkeydo

Senior Member
  • Posts

    11547
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    100

Everything posted by monkeyseemonkeydo

  1. You need to specify hub and rim dimensions- The diameter at which the spoke holes sit on the hub, the flange offset from the centreline of the hub, the effective rim diameter and spoke offset, if any. Probably best to ask Adam though True story: I've been riding trials for over 10 years, along with mountainbikes and BMXes, had numerous bikes, 20", 24" and 26" and have never bought spokes. Have only ever bought complete wheels/bikes and then reused spokes several times over when replacing components. Ah well.
  2. Google+"spoke calculator" = Spoke length calculator Or of course, give Adam at TartyBikes a shout on Tuesday and he'll probably be able to tell you straight off through his magical encyclopedic trials brain!
  3. Sounds like a really nice guy. So long as you're in the BNP or are a white supremacist.
  4. I reckon some black stickers would finish that off nicely . Brave colour choice but I reckon it looks good, although I bet it looks different in the flesh!
  5. "Those who risk nothing, do nothing, achieve nothing, become nothing." David Jeffries "Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is not to stop questioning." Albert Einstein
  6. As has been said many times before... looked far better before and looks like you've gained absolutely nothing from the changes except probably adding a bit of weight and of course making it look a bit more, well, crap. Why anyone would spend £1600 on a brand new, top of the line bike and then change random bits of it I have no idea... oh actually, yes I do- it's a condition known as moremoneythansenseophilia. With regards the freewheel, I take it you didn't keep the lockring tight or something? If it just went I'd have thought that would be a warranty issue. Meh, it's your bike.
  7. Look here or find some pics of Vincent Hermance's Boxx...
  8. Yeah but you're american so we can just ignore anything you say. Oh yeah, and just put a booster on the brake and be done with it.
  9. I believe each unit is equivalent to about 4.0009152mm or 0.15751634645669291338582677165354". Or 0.40009152cm.
  10. Dude, you're the one who brought up the fact you 'play', knowing what the stereotype is and even playing on it so don't come back and shoot your mouth off when someone follows it up. That's pretty stupid. Anyway, I'm fully behind making centimetre's illegal... One of our group members in my final year project of my MEng used to quote things in cm's and was the joke of the department! However, we managed to give him a bit of a mental breakdown during that year and he never finished as far as we know serves him right for using centimetres.
  11. I've seen it with my own eyes in Kenya and I still don't understand how he faked it if he did... As a qualified aeospace engineer (rocket scientist to Derf) and hopefully soon to be Doctor of Engineering, I'm a secret believer in the coriolis effect in draining sinks...
  12. To be honest I'm happy switching between both. When designing something or at work I always use mm/m's. However, if I need someone to cut something down or a rough idea of what's required I'll occasionally jump in to inches. And anything bike related is always inches... unless it's stem bar clamp size or BB axle width etc... Nothing wrong with chopping and changing!
  13. If you look at the lever from the front of the bike, you should be able to see where the blade pivots about. The holes in the blade can flex and eventually crack and you should be able to see this if you have a look . Edit:
  14. Might be worth checking that the lever blade isn't cracked at the pivot point... Marta levers design kind of promotes that if not looked after or modified.
  15. They were released years ago. Link. Trialtech carbon spacers for the win
  16. I find it wierd that anyone can name their shoes like that... I have pair of brown and cream ones, a pair of black and white ones... some black ones... and a few more but the descriptions don't get much better!
  17. Back when Ian rode, we didn't have these new fangled 'video cameras' and everyone was on dial up so they didn't tend to make it online that often! Great to see Ian getting back into riding... he's obviously doing all right for himself going straight in with one seriously pimp Boxx! Looks good
  18. Should I be worried by that post?
  19. Big shipment has just been delivered and Tarty should have it up soon. If you know what you want you'll be able to give TB a ring though and they'll sort you out Fair enough. Most frames I've had only had roughly 7mm of usable thread before the bolt bottomed out on the tube. As you say though, frames obviously differ
  20. But how many frames have a full 10mm of tapped mounting hole to use? Not many. In which case, if it's 20mm which is about perfect or 25mm which you'll have to cut down, I'd go with the former...
  21. Nope. He 99.9999% certainly doesn't make his bolts. He'll get them from the cheapest/most reliable source that he can find. That however may mean that the tolerances aren't as tight as they should be but I'd have thought an M5 bolt is pretty much an M5 bolt... Oh, and Nath- just another reason to run a rear disc
  22. Is Danny Mac actually on T-F?
  23. I'll take this one if that's ok... It is white. It's just in shadow. There's also a small 'bumper' under the nose which is also white. The lump is a slotted rubber flap, which allows access to the bolt beneath it which attaches the seat to the post. The logo says 'Pivotal' and is for the patented 'pivotal' design which Macneil produced a couple of years back and own the rights to. Hope that answers your questions Pics: Whiteness Grey bit Edit: Also, here's a pic from underneath the seat for anyone who's unfamiliar with the pivotal system. Minimalist, functional, sweeet!
  24. Ah, but your teeth don't if you use a Deore...
×
×
  • Create New...