monkeyseemonkeydo

Man that sounds like HASSLE!! To be honest I'm totally not convinced by Matt's spraying advice. Spraying loads on with the can close will just end up looking like the bike started life in a Salvador Dali painting... Follow the instructions on the can (which is usually spray at a distance of 300mm and use several light coats etc). I've found that by far the easiest way to apply lacquer is not to bother at all though... especially on a trials bike which will just get battered an scratched up anyway.

For a start the T-Master hub is sealed so no cones to worry about- the spacers which you point out are just spacers. The new axle will not come with them because there will be nothing wrong with the current ones and you can just reuse them. To remove them they will either just be an interference fit (tight but not threaded or anything) or there will be a little allen key grub screw at some point around it which you will just need to loosen to remove the spacers.

Without making the finish look shit?

Just do it. Even if you sneak off on your own and get a few lessons on the 'baby' slope to learn the basics is shouldn't take long to get your head around it. You won't regret it- boarding's awesome .

To be honest I think the Abingdon ride should only ever be organised with the support and backing of Sue, Charlie and Sam. Of course that is not to say that DJ will ever be forgotten without the ride but simply that it is their call and if they don't believe it is achieving what they originally set out to then they should be able to call an end to it. I imagine there will be a Portsmouth memorial ride for many years to come and I can see that as the natural continuation for a 'rider organised' gathering.

Why bother stripping them at all? get some 600 grit wet and dry sand paper, key up the black surface then spray away. No point messing around with stripping unless you want to polish them back to raw ally.

Provided you aren't running forks with a threaded topcap like the Trialtechs.

The discontinuation of the gathering had absolutely nothing to do with the covering of costs. In fact, the way so many of the people were attending just to got to a ride is more like the reason...

Just get in with some friends who can already do it and ask them to take you as part of a small group to teach you the basics. You should pick it up pretty quickly with good tuition. Have you skateboarded/surfed before?

Compression bolt?...

My blue spray job lasted over a year and still looked pretty good when I went camo. People mistook it for a factory job and that was keyed, sprayed and rebuilt in an afternoon with no lacquer.

I never bother. But then I'm lazy and impatient...

Or Mongoose.

No doubt about that 'back in the day' but in the originally posted video he makes a real hash of it!

Don't pull the lever as hard?

I'd second that 'sketchy' comment actually. Did you see him trying to get up that ~30" step? Bunnyhop up, hang the back wheel like a bitch and then a massive correction hop which cuts away really quickly as if he has to put a foot down. He never used to be sketchy and was a complete legend but that video made him look like a terrible rider. He didn't make anything look smooth or easy which is one thing that I think a demo should. However, if anyone wishes to upload 'Keepin' it real' it'll show he was pure awesome back in the day!

Easiest way I find is to use a hammer/mallet and hit the end of the axle. The axle and bearing will then work its way out the end opposite to where you're hitting. You can then use a tube of some sort to get the bearing which remains on the axle off. To refit you just need to get the axle through the bearing which will still be in the hub body and then use the tube again to seat the other bearing back onto the axle and into the shell. A bit of grease and the application of heat will also do wonders to help things along...

I'm good thanks .

I don't there's a plan for a homo version I'm afraid Luke . Thought you were a BMX basher now?!!

See my (not so) sneaky edit.

They're straight blades. The pics of John Shrewsbury and my bikes in the Bike Pics forum both have proto Inspired forks on for your perusal. It took me a while to get used to the looks of the forks because I'd only used curved legs for years but I love them now and the strength and design is second to none in my opinion. Edit: Just had a quick chat with Dave and he reckons they'll be here before the end of November. RRP is to be confirmed but they'll be available disc only in black or white and magura only in black.

First why is (I think) because of the amount of machining and work that has to go into the production. They have quite intricate, neat dropouts and a one piece machined steerer like the Trialtechs. The second is because they're just perfect. I've been running my protos for ages now (8-10 months at a guess) and due to the single piece steerer and design they are the strongest, stiffest forks I've ever used (on a trials bike of course). A lot of thought has gone into the disc mount to ensure it won't put undue stress into the legs or welds. The top cap (which threads directly into the steerer which is nice) also allows for the brake line to pass down the fork for that Danny Mac look! Together with all that they still weigh less than 1kg. They rock.

. Start saving though, I believe they're not going to be the cheapest forks on the market but they will definitely be the best.

That's the usual way of guestimating whether a gap is doable static or not.

It looks like one of the really basic simple ones that exist on lesser forums... Sorry but 'Nooooooo I don't like change'!