monkeyseemonkeydo

Have you nipped the bolt up too much so the lever's not completely free to move? Try loosening it off a touch and see how it feels.

Getting '123-reg | Domain name registration'. Have we lost the server/site since Luke left uni?

I stick my pads and disc in boiling water to try and get out the oil and then stick my pads in a hot oven for 10mins to burn off residual oil. Seems to do something... Does need bedding in again afterwards though. Edit: What the hell is brund?!

I think what John's getting at is that the Inspired's are stiff and solid as fook- proper 'fit and forget' forks like with BMX. They're also straight blade (like BMX's) giving the bike a very direct feel. They most definitely aren't steel- nicely finished ally all the way with the same steerer tube design as the Trialtechs.

With care!

Or the Inspired's which will have all the good points of the Trialtechs while being 24" specific with a hollow bolt for the front brake cable to pass through etc. Kickass. Edit: I've also just spoken to Dave Cleaver and the topbolts from the Inspired forks will eventually be available to buy separately so people with Trialtech forks will be able to run them.

I guess you could use a dremel with a cutting wheel if you had one/were lazy.

You guys...

Luke started it!!

Bootiful. Good job!

No way does that say Jupiters Jaunts... I can almost see Jupiter...

Depends what brake it is... Most Hope brakes use allen screws I think but the Try-All brake seems to use Torx.

Everything I thought. Ah well, carry on.

Forks etc. are expected before the end of this month. I believe there will be two completes available, a 'Pro' and a 'Team' version, each based around the brilliant Inspired frame and forks.

Yup. There were a few threads visible so I whacked on a low profile nut.

I haven't bothered with a longer bolt- have put a nut on the end of the stock one. Works a trreat.

Don't worry people, the seller has more than 10 available. Phew.

You need to know the durometer rating (i.e. 60A or whatever) you're after. I'm sure Ali posted a link up a while back in a thread...

I'd second that.

Yeah mine did that too. I've since replaced them with cap head scews which take a 2.5mm instead of 2mm allen key to reduce the chance of rounding. To get your current ones out the best I can suggest is either using pliers or something to get a grip on the head, use a very new, non rounded allen key and see what you can do or try using a similar sized imperial allen key which takes up the slack.

You can get it from eBay if you're so inclined.

Hence the '(of the same relative properties)' .

How old's the tensioner? Are the teeth of the jockey wheels a bit deformed? Other than that you might just need to tweak the alignment of the tensioner. Even if it's sitting perfectly at rest it may not be when you put a load of torque through the system.

Or if it's coming round the pistons themselves you need new seals.