monkeyseemonkeydo

They have a right hand thread. As stated on the TartyBikes website (whose bike related advice I'd trust with my life), by the designer/manufacturer (Mike) and also a few owners. I'm pretty sure that's proof enough. Yep.

(Quoted before Chris edits )

Will Cogger's probably up there too. Saw him in around 1997 riding for Peugeot at the Scottish Car Show in the SECC.

And Jez Avery! One of the first people I saw ride trials (for MAD) and a legendin his own lifetime! Edit: Good to see Rich and Jez still going strong!

Hawyes has always bugged me for some reason. Never been convinced by his riding- he only got the publicity and coverage he did because of Martyn. He also comes across as a bit of a knob and have heard a few stories of him blanking trials riders because of who he thinks he is... Agreed, Martyn's the main main, Ackrigg to some extent, Ed tongue then people like Kurt Brain come to mind.

Whatever you fancy really. 175's will give you more leverage and a bit more power but 160's/165's will allow you to accelerate the bike faster from a standstill.

You are a sad f**k is what you are.

I can try...

But...

Lolzaroony. Oh yeah, forgot about those puppies. Also a good call.

Come on Chris, man up and get in there with a nail (or screwdriver) and hammer! Just tap it round if you want to get the lockring off, no need for proper tools (though, as Adam says, they do exist (mine's the green Park one which doesn't fit ). Simple things, eh?!

Nope, I (have to) use the right tool to take the actual freewheel off but to do the lockring I just use a nail. To tighten my old ACS's I even shrink wrapped the shaft of a nail so it wouldn't scratch the frame when I rolleed the bike backwards with the nail in place! I do actually own a proper Park pin tool thing but the pins are the wrong size for the enO and I've never bothered to modify it to wrok properly because a nail works just fine!

Your point? That's not going to do much for a Tensile lockring, that's for sure...

Vice. Nail. Hammer. Undoing a lockring? Done.

Really? Funny that.

Just a quick aside that a stoppie is where you ride at speed, use the front brake to get the back wheel off the ground then continue rolling on the front wheel. An endo is where you lock the front brake (either from standstill or while moving slowly) and pivot about the front wheel.

It's all about timing. Start by doing a little endo (the rear only a couple of inches off the ground) and as the back touches down shift you weight back and pull on the bars; you're basically using the momentum of the bike coming down to pivot on the rear and lift the front. Chances are you might get the front an inch or two off the ground to start with but if you get comfortable at that move on to letting go of the rear brake and putting in a little kick of the pedals as the rear wheel touches down from the endo. You're aiming to move the bike forwards underneath you while keeping your own centre of gravity in the same place. When you do it right the bike will end up with the front wheel a couple of feet off the floor and you will be balanced with your centre of gravity over the rear wheel...

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It was soooo ugly though...

Exactly... that's not how shops are supposed to work.

I thought he meant statically while backhopping? At the moment I imagine you're wasting lots of energy by hopping the bike underneath you then shuffling your hips to one side and manoeuvring the whole bike to one side, while keeping the front wheel in about the same place. What you want to do is get yourself in a nice balanced backhop and then while preloading for the next hop twist the handlebars a little (10-20 degrees) to allow your body to preload to the side as well as vertically. When you put the next hop in use that small preload in your arms/upper body to 'unwind' and move the bike a little to the same way you turned your bars to. Go for little changes in angle first and build up. Probably best to watch some videos to get an idea of what I mean because it's kinda hard to describe! Sorry if I've got the wrong end of the stick...

Nah, just you're northern and finished your post with 'lmfao'. Stereotype and all that. No offence intended. I assumed the frame questions related to a 24" TGS frame but you're absolutely right that the question is meaningless and the results completely invalid without specifying.

There's not much in it to be honest. In the absence of a 1/2" square-8mm allen adaptor (which must exist outside of RaceFace but I can't find it) I'd probably go with the Cyclus tool but I'd still rather go for the RaceFace one and buy something else pimp for the bike from Tarty to get up to the £100!!

Sorry, missed that. I'm afraid I'm going to advise something which Tarty don't seem to stock (sorry Adam!!) but I've got the RaceFace one which is similar to the IceToolz one but includes a neat adapter which allows you to use an 8mm Allen key, which means I often carry it with me on rides since I already have the 8mm for cranks. £7 posted ain't bad either. Edit: Actually possibly £6.30 if that 10% off banner thing's telling the truth.

Depends what tool you've got. ISIS BB's need more clearance in the tool to allow it to pass over the axle and still reach the splines which some tools which were designed purely for square taper don't allow for. The actual spline they pick up on is the same but the dimensions can be different... So basically, depends purely on the tool you have.