monkeyseemonkeydo

Yup. I'm still running a 90mm by 20 degree stem and cut down bars as well! Pedal up to back, no tap and not even any Skins... for trials and street trials it's the most comfortable bike I've ever owned. Not quite as easy for real comp stuff of course but it's not impossible and I can usually give most a run for their money!!

First ones are the right style but not compact drive unfortunately. Sooooo expensive though!

Hey mate, just been in the garage and dug out the bits. PM me your address and I'll get them sent out tomorrow morning .

Two bits- one is the plunger that actually pushes on the piston and the other is the plate which is adjusted by the TPA and then locks onto the plunger. Not sure if these are available separately anymore though... I probably have both bits in the garage if you needed.

Now that's some beefy tube .

Coda's would be truly awesome for oldskool cool but there are very few if any still going. Tenth hand from eBay would probably be your only option! Middleburns' are expensive if you buy new. Unless you already have the 24/7's it's probably worth checking out the 'for sale' section and tracking down a set of Trialtechs or similar to get you going. Cheap, light and plenty strong enough. Edit: Ooooooh yesssssss... :$

I can ride my Inspired just fine. With the stiffer gearing I can actually backwheel and gap better than with the lighter trials gearing... Sidehops are fine too. Probably would be better on a stupid light Koxx Sky or whatever but I get on just fine. Start to struggle doing proper comps but still have fun .

Yes. There are two main types of crank/BB interface- square taper and ISIS. You will need to decide which cranks and which interface you want before buying the appropriate BB .

Manufacturers tend to stick to one seat post diameter... if Cannondales are all 27.2 chances are that's what you need. However, you can get 26.8mm seat posts so if you're confident that's what you need, then go for it! You can always use a bit of coke can or something to shim it out. It's not like the seatpost will be used for much once slammed! If the OD of the seatpost is 30.8 a 31.8 might be too sloppy. Again it depends on the confidence in your measurements! This ought to also be a standard size for all Cannondales. BB size is axle length and shell width, neither of these have anything to do with the circumference of the shell. The width will be either 68 or 73mm and the axle length depends on the crank setup but will need to be somewhere between 118 and 128mm. You'll probably be safe with something like a 122.5mm axle but it all depends on setup. Edit: Sheldon Brown confirms that all Cannondales use 27.2mm posts.

Sigh.

Would be better if Joe could just talk to the factory while he's out there and ask them to reduce the height really though...

Bodgetastic . Edit: Just a quick thought- the 22.2mm posts are the standard size for those kids BMX racers which used to come with the mini seats that were then used in trials. I have no idea, however, if you can now get these kids bikes with pivotal posts... if so there may be someone producing 22.2mm pivotal posts for them. Long shot though!

Pics of the axle wouldn't hurt. If it's not a standard type/size of axle I think the only options are to get one custom made by a machine shop or sending some info and pics to Monty in Spain and seeing if they happen to have anything to help- might be worth an ask! That's assuming, of course, that you want to keep it original? If not you could pick up and random 80's front hub which would be very similar for a few dollars on eBay I'd have thought.

Best bet is to get a 25.4 pivotal BMX (standard BMX size) one and get someone to turn it down to 22/22.2 for the Curtis.

Have you considered reducing the height of the seatpost slightly on the Zoot? The ability to slam the seat is unusually important to some/mmost! Built in pivotal is the way forward but the total height needs to be considered...

I knew it!!

Pivotal is basically a design standard so you can put any pivotal saddle on there. I think you're wrong there (they look bloody similar) but that's by the by. Danny Mac uses an Inspired seat. Using one makes you ride like Danny. True fact.

Is the axle threaded for cup and cone type unsealed bearings? If so that might be fairly easy to get hold of from a local bike shop. I would have thought it would just be steel though rather than anything fancy like titanium but could be wrong... if you post up a pic of the dead axle it may be easier to help . Edit: Now that's oldskool!!

That's not right... The first set of signature frames were blue 16" Beasts of the East but there was a second version with a 14" frame as well which was available for a couple of years. Don't think the white fade ones were ever released though- team only. Spec wise it's all about the red Beast of the East... Sun rims, triple colour Flite saddle, IRC tyres, Triple Trap pedals, CODA cranks etc etc. Chainspotting relived. I might actually kill to own a replica of that bike!

Do they have a fleet of secret (possibly stealth) Concordes? That really is silly. Especially for £11!

Haha, good luck with that!

ORLY? Modified for only one pawl engaging at a time or proto? I'm determined to get a Hope rear hub at some point so I can relive the end credit section of Chainspotting with Mart on the random thin wall... Is that sad?...

Brakeless and a Stealth hub... quietest trials bike ever?!

Looks like John uses a Thompson Elite stem, looks about 90mm x 5 degrees with those snap happy bars...

I've been running an Easton EA50 90mm x 20° for about 18 months with Easton hi-rise bars and get on really well with the setup. I am running about 25-30mm of stackers too though.