monkeyseemonkeydo

There's just no beating that burping sound when air escapes every time you land or takeoff. Combined with those burps messing with your braking surface (for rim brakes) what's not to like?!

The big office window reminds me of OCC... I'd love to see a Tarty fly-on-the-wall docu-soap involving mayhem and mischief! Premises look really good guys, good going

Knock 'em out and fit new ones? Remove the cups, get something like a well sized socket to know out the old ones (with the help of a vice probably) and then press the new ones in either with a socket picking up on the external race or some kind of press. Probably.

Care to upload the other vids? That was a really good watch

Oh. You're 28. Right. Ok. Carry on.

The second part was a serious question as well (though a bit sarcastically written). Apart from you telling us it's harder do you have any data to back up that it is anything other than DOT fluid?

Right... well that's cleared that up. Except that what you're talking about is compressibility and the majority of fluids which can be used in brakes can be effectively considered as incompressible at standard atmospheric temperature and pressure. Why do you think that tank brake fluid is any different? My guess is that the army just buy DOT fluid in bulk from a supplier with the main difference being that it comes in a khaki 50 litre drum.

I used to have a Raider! Loved that thing . Then got a Tamiya Vanessa's Lunchbox which is probably still (in pieces) in a box in Scotland.

But read this first. Or just use water.

Fair enough. I've always run mine equal but I guess it makes sense when you say it like that...

That'd be tooooo coarse.

Not necessarily true (Marty/ins ran standard Hope hubs for years) but I do agree that it'd be worth swapping the rear hub out for a Pro2 trials. The Bulb hub should fetch a few quid on ebay which should almost fund a Pro2 if you're lucky.

The only one I could find was this:

Fair enough. Nothing stopping him trying it though. Chainline can be tweaked after all!

Keep diggin'

What's wrong with Adam?!

No worries chief. As you said, best to start fine (1200ish) and work up if necessary to something like 600 but since you're only really wanting to remove a tiny amount of material the finer the better I'd say to reduce the chance of going too far.

So when is it out?

Wait, what? Wire wool, fair enough. 'start fine' in response to 'what grit sandpaper should I use' doesn't make me think wire wool though. So it'd be better to start with 1200 grit? Like I suggested? Hence the 'wait, what?' response to your last line since my suggestion was 1200 grit wet and dry... Edit: Unless you meant an alternative to water in which case there's simply no need for an alternative. Edit 2: Man I'm grouchy today!

Useful... If you're going to sand it use 1200 grit wet and dry and take it easy with it. What like you spouting off shite again about water bleeds? f**k off.

But if it's a proper old school screw on cassette/freewheel would it work? Can only assume that they both use the weird 1.37" x 24 tpi thread size...

Prescription goggles?

Any reason for the randomly positioned levers?

Unreal riding, you have so much commitment it's just astounding. Major props to you!