Matt Burrows

I think it looks great, can't see why everyone is slating it so much

Yeah I think it will do, worth a shot. In regards to the cassette, what did you make it out of?

Shimano and Sram shifters pull different amounts of cable, and that shifter is designed to be Shimano compatible. Pretty sure they aren't compatible anyway. Also, what spacing is your cassette? Theres different spacing used for different cassettes and they all need the right shifter to work properly.

Beast riding Joe, especially those last two lines. Really enjoyable vid

This!

Not sure how much lacquer was used originally but it held up quite well. I think the surface was roughened up first to add more depth and effect to the finish. Before I sold it to Matt I went over the frame with a silicone carbide disc on a drill to roughen up the surface (link). Then sprayed it with the tail light spray mentioned above. It took pretty well to the frame and looked sweet, but definitely needed some lacquer. Not sure how much that would effect the finish, but it should be ok.

Yeah was sweet, thanks guys

The clue is in the title... anodised rims are anodised and not painted! You need caustic soda, or alternatively just flat the surface with some wet and dry and paint straight onto it.

Fair point, Keita was(is?) damn good. I haven't met him though, whereas I have met Vasek and he was really good to watch.

I think you should GTFO and not come back

Agreed! Vasek is by far and away the most stylishest mod rider I've seen

These guys make everything look far too easy!

I'm sure it can make a difference. I've read articles on the theory behind rotor design and performance before, but in practice I think the differences are fairly negligible. My current BB7 has the Avid rotor that is almost entirely solid and that bites damn well. Although thats not to say it couldn't get better, maybe I should try a Hope rotor... But in regard to the original post, the guy didn't say "my brake bites OK but could it be better." He said his brake doesn't bite at all, which clearly points to something more than just rotor style. If you put a pipe on the bleed nipple then you can see the air bubbles coming out. Once the bubbles stop coming out i'd usually push another 2 reservoirs of fluid through just to make sure. Keep tapping the brake line as you bleed it to help move the bubbles through. Once you've finished bleeding, flick the lever blade a few times as Hope's have a habit of getting little bubbles trapped in the lever. Just pull the lever in a bit and let go so it snaps back. You might have to do this for a minute or so until the bubbles stop. Then you can do your final top up and fit the diaphragm.

It is less of a faff... but it's also less acurate, heavier and not as stiff. Plus if the fork mounts aren't perfect then there's nothing you can do about it. With IS mount, it is more effort to set for the first time. But once you have the shims sorted then you never have to set it up again. Plus you can face the fork mounts, shim it accurately to within 0.1mm and then the brake is set-up perfect. Resulting in awesomeness. Granted you can get it pretty close to perfect with post mount but there is always the chance of the caliper moving, or the fork mounts being slightly offline and then the brake will never be square.

Nice work for those photos Ad, is the lever blade pin held in place with a grub screw?

If the brake has no bite, changing the rotor will make f**k all difference. Just clean it, and then replace or clean the pads. Then don't forget to bed the pads in afterwards, this can take time and the brake will be poor until its properly bed in. That is of course assuming that the brake is bled properly, set up perfectly, and there are no leaks anywhere which could cause the contamination. Some people will probably say one rotor works better than another, but there really isn't anything wrong with a standard Hope one. Also, the Hope floating rotors aren't that great for trials. They can creak and develop play over time, a waste of money really!

Congratulations for reinforcing your title as the most annoying and stupid member of the forum. Who lives in Inverness and can go and give this idiot a slap?

One of my favourite videos ever, so good. Makes me miss Buthiers though.

Haha if you insist 11 sounds good.

I should be on for this

Cool sounds good Riding anywhere this weekend?

Spec sounds lovely, have you been throwing money at it . What do you think of the rear tyre?

Yes I did, thanks Mark

Should be more than enough room for a 2.5" in your control

Things have moved on quite a bit even in the last 2 years. Tensiles are good freewheels, certainly stronger than old Hope hubs to give you an idea. But they can break, and the Echo freewheels with 72 or 108 engagements are actually a lot stronger. I would definitely choose an Echo TR freewheel over the Tensile, especially considering they cost the same.