Matt Burrows

Adamant A1s are fairly short, if you want to ride a long bike then you might have the wrong frame. Putting a super long stem on will probably make the handling horrible, I'd try raising the front end up first and see how that goes. Maybe try a longer fork as that made my short Adamant ride way better. At 5'9" you should be able to get it feeling good, I'm 6 foot and my bike has plenty of space for me, although it is the low BB version. Oh and you only need to hunch over if you posture is shit, get some core strength and keep that back straight! Should be able to compensate by just bending your legs a bit more.

Biketrial federation is all you need

YES! Must not forget chairs! Remind me before we leave Will

Don't bother, DOT 5.1 is a better fluid. And greasing the pistons is a really bad idea lol. Yeah air behind the caliper could be the issue. You have to strip the caliper, remove the pistons and hose. Put the caliper on a flat surface and fill the bore with fluid, make sure there are no air bubbles trapped around the seal. Dip the piston in some DOT and slowly fit it, fluid will be pushed through and out the caliper as you do so. Don't push the piston all the way in, leave it sticking out 2 or 3mm. With the mono caliper the other side is a bit different, you have to fit the piston in first, then fill the bore behind it with fluid, remove air bubbles then refit the cap. Now you can refit the hose and bleed it through from the bottom up, making sure the lever is the highest point of the system. Keep pushing fluid through with the syringe until no more bubbles come into the lever. Give the lever blade a few flicks as they tend to trap air, this should release some tiny bubbles into the reservoir. Be careful the pistons don't come out any further when you do that, it's worth sticking something inbetween to keep them in place. When the lever's free from air, tighten the caliper bleed nipple and remove syringe. Now you can push the pistons fully back into the caliper, before a final top up of the reservoir and fit the cap. Hope that helps

QUOTE (joe b @ Dec 7 2009, 01:56 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Ermmm, never? Haha . Agreed . I'm game, and agree with Andy's suggestion on the date

Yeah I meant the lever seals, they are subject to wear as well but are less likely to be the issue. Does the brake feel solid? If it is spongey then it has air, if its solid then you can rule out internal issues. That is assuming the caliper is aligned perfectly, if it's wonky then it can cause the brake to feel spongey. If all that is ok then it has to be down to pad/rotor performance. Either not being fully bed in, being contaminated or simply just not quite as bitey as your previous pads...

Might have got air trapped behind the piston or around the seal, if you have then bleeding it won't always clear it. Did you fill the caliper bore with fluid before fitting the pistons? If the brake is spongey at the lever then it almost certainly has air in the system. The only other thing it could be is a leak somewhere or a knackered seal.

I agree, I hope Deng starts using the new BB design on all his frames and not just the 24s!

I reckon Dave snapped his so quick cuz he's a dirty fat basher

Rubbish! You know you want to get rid of it, I'm sure I can find a home for it

Uci all the way, a small bashguard is all you need. If anything I tend to catch my pedals more in comps, even when I'm finding it really tough I rarely end up on my bashguard.

Hope XC stems are solid. I've been using a 110x10 stem for over 3 years now I think! It's been used on a few different frames, and in that time I've snapped a few pairs of forks and a few sets of bars.

That's pretty unlikely considering the number of DHers running 24", or the number of 24" wheeled competition trials riders...

I'm guessing he was just waiting for Ashton to put it on their site before release? Not your best video, but either way was still awesome. I loved the first rail line, manual to over rail to backwards manual, perfect. And the balance line to sidehop onto roof looked pretty ballsy. I didn't recognise the last line, where is that last spot? Oh and I think he was pretty keen to finish this vid so he can go back to brakeless!?

Yes, as Chris said any fork described as 'U-turn' will have the outside travel adjust dial for easy adjustment. Almost all rockshox forks can be internally travel adjusted, these will be described as 'all travel' which you want to avoid by the sound of it. For what you want the Revelations you linked to sound perfect, you can keep your front wheel and with the dual air chambers they are infinitely adjustable. I don't think you'll get much better for the money

I bet this guy is a real hit with the ladies

Because...

Why polish a turd? Tektro cable discs are just rubbish for trials. I'd save the time and money and just buy something better, you can get 2nd hand bb7s really cheap...

Do you have any idea how strong stainless steel brake cables are?!? I'm pretty sure you could rupture the hose on a hydraulic brake with a lot less force than that required to snap a steel cable. I've had a blocked hose before and not realised, couldn't figure out what was wrong with it and then split the hose when I pulled it hard. Some of the best riders in the country swear by cable brakes, and Avid BB disc brakes are damn powerful. I'd say at least give it a try, you might be surprised how good it is, and if not just buy something else then.

Pretty obvious if you read the description? Pikes are coil sprung and hence quite a bit heavier, the rest of the fork is very similar although the Pikes are 20mm bolt through rather than those QR Revelations

If the spacer was a decent thickness, and was filed down to be a snug fit on the bottom of the steerer, then it would probably be ok. The main problem you'd have is that the crown race would sit on the thinner part of the steerer and would probably be able to move around, giving a headset that could knock even when tight. Although its far from ideal it can be made to work, no harm in at least trying it to see if it will fit.

Why would you want one side touching first, what performance benefit does that give? Personally I'd avoid that, one of the main causes of disc brake problems is when the pistons don't come out evenly due to misalignment. There's nothing wrong with bedding pads in by riding downhill, as long as you don't go overboard and heat them up too much. General concensus in the industry seems to be that short, sharp braking is the best option. I find a decent hill, get up to speed then brake fairly hard for 3-4 seconds, then get back up to speed and make sure there is a few seconds gap before doing the same. Usually after doing this for 10-20 times you notice a definite increase in performance. In my experience bedding pads in by just riding trials can take days, and often doesn't bed them in fully. Oh I also give new pads a spray with disc brake cleaner before fitting them to make sure they are perfectly clean, it seems to help with bedding in.

Good choice, I'm sure they'll be fine

Being able to control your emotions is an essential skill if you want to get anywhere in life. Shit happens, but it's your choice whether you get pissed off or not. You always have the power to choose how things effect you, nobody can take that away from you. So grow up and be mature about it, don't get emotional and try getting attention for your problems, use your brain and go and DO something to make things better. Oh and wrong forum

Muel knows about the different hub shells, and as he said if you read his post properly, he has done the measurements and believes there is enough room. Personally I think the only proper way to do it would be to lose the disc mount and take as much off the NDS as possible, and then you can keep all the bearings in. You could make a mod Bulb or XC like Ed, but why modify weak hubs when the vastly superior Pro II is available?