Matt Burrows

A real shame about Blackpool, but I know it was a bit of a headache to organise so its understandable. Looking good otherwise

Anyone got any pics of it or knows what it looks like? The last pics on his blog he was still riding his Sky

Haha I was thinking of adding ium to my Adamant, I'm sure it is actually indestructable as far as trials use is concerned. I once cracked an old Echo pure (the really strong ones with seats) in half the time I rode my Adamant for

Well done (you still didn't get the point I made in my first post) Hope you enjoy the new bike, you should be able to set-up a 56cm to feel right.

Thats the 2nd best looking frame I've seen, after the Koxx Sky. I think it looks awesome Ben, good luck riding it next season.

No, if you actually read my post I was talking about and explained both. I work in the trade I know what compact is...

XTR cranks use a higher quality Alu which is renowned for being stiff, but that series uses the road bike Octalink BB. I just about trust it for road, but wouldn't go near it for DJ. The new HT2 outboard sytem has a big and stiff axle which will probably make it stiffer than the XTR.

Your 6 foot and would ride a 60cm?!? I'm 6'1" and ride a 56, 60 is like trying to ride a penny farthing for me. In traditional sizing the measurement is a vertical line from the centre of BB to the top tube where the top tube was always horizontal. Nowadays because frames all have sloping top tubes this measurement is purely virtual which is what makes it confusing. Most manufacturers now give the seatube length which just confuses things even more. On a modern frame my 56cm equivalent size might be around 52cm... all very silly. I tend to stick to top tube length which is what usually matters, about 55-56cm is good for me. But whatever measurement your using, 60cm is miles too big for somebody at 5'9" i'm afraid

Those Echo rims are strong and make a great rear rim if you need something narrow, or a DX32 as Craig suggested but you can only buy 36h now. Rowan ran one of those Echo rims for a while and his was pretty good

I feel I need a strong frame but I'm not a basher and don't do silly drop gaps. I'm just a heavy guy who rides far more than he should do and tends to break a lot of components. Light frames can be so flexy as well which i really can't stand. I'm a big fan of old U6 Deng frames, just over 2kg and will last forever if you don't bash them. I had an 06 control which lasted for 2 years and still was fine when I sold it, my last frame was an 07 Adamant which lasted 18 months of hard riding. I snapped 2 sets of handlebars, probably 9 or 10 sets of forks and a few BBs while using that frame and it is still solid. They don't make them like they used to!

Absolutely love the design . Would be great for maguras, with the added benefit that you could have space for normal V mounts on top as well

The 06 was quoted as having +55mm BB and the 07 with a +15mm. Wheelbase is supposed to be around 1065mm, although mine has always been 1070-1075 with a +25BB

Those frames ride really well, and I'm sure it'll feel a great deal better than the adamant! They can't take much abuse but if you're still learning and you treat it well it should be ok.

Yeah the cold weather can effect things. It could be that your pads/rotor are slightly contaminated or not quite bed in properly, so they don't work very well until warm.

High BB makes for great backhopping, but is harder for taps?

Not often that I'm impressed with riding, but that was actually awesome! Nice moves

I think you missed my first point slightly. I wasn't referring to 24" BB rise, I was asking why would you take 15mm from the height to compare it to a stock. A 24" bike sits 1" lower than a stock, so surely you would take 25mm off the height to compare it? I don't understand where you got 15mm from

No he's not. He was talking about changing the head angle not the reach. If your trying to explain the ride characteristics of different frame geometries, then you must assess each frame measurement seperately and keep others constant. If you keep the reach the same then the wheelbase will be longer with a slack headangle and hence worse for street. If you keep the wheelbase the same and change the head angle then yes you are right, but wheelbase is not a geometry of the frame, and isn't really relevant when trying to explain frame geos. In most other bike disciplines wheelbase is rarely thought about as it has nothing to do with the fit of the bike. There is no point in having a frame which handles better if it is too short to be comfortable. For some reason trials riders place more importance on wheelbase than reach, even to the point that set wheelbases define what type of riding the bike is for which is complete tosh

I think you've got a bit confused there, a slacker head angle will make your weight less central and more over the back wheel. Most BMXs have around a 74 or 75 degree head angle, and trials bikes are usually 71-72. Which is better for street?

I think that might of confused people? Certainly made no sense to me, 1"=25mm not 15 if thats what you meant? I get the point you're trying to make, but I think there are more factors involved. From my experience 24" bikes ride a lot more like stocks than mods, and I think anymore than 40-50mm BB rise would start to make it feel gash like high BB stocks. Hopefully will be a few frames out by summer to try anyway.

A1 longs are ridiculously long! I've ridden A1 shorts for 2 years now and absolutely love them, but can't stand the long version. I'd say just try a shorter 26" frame and play with the bar and stem set-up. 24" bikes aren't all they're made out to be, and for the extra cost its not worth it unless you're sure its what you want. There's plenty of short 2nd hand deng frames around 1060-1070, with a streetier bar set-up this would be a world away from your current set-ep. I've tried 24" bikes a few times but always go back to 26" for street trials

Its SP51, 5mm gear cable outer housing (normal gear outer is 4mm, but this is big enough for you to use with a standard brake inner cable). http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/shimano-sp5...-item12520.html Also you can use BMX linear brake cables, these have the same 5mm gear cable outer. Thats what I use and its just as good as the Shimano stuff but usually a bit more expensive. I prefer Animal bike co cables, they come with decent metal ferrules(the end bits to the outer) which help to stop the outer from pulling apart.

You do realise that at 1060 with a slack head angle and high BB, that bike will actually feel shorter than an Inspired? And there are 3 Deng 24" frames all with low standover and 1040-1050mm wheelbase. If you don't like the seat you could always cut down the tube, or fit a mini seat which sits flush and won't get in the way much. My Leeson below was about 1040 and had plenty of clearance with that mini seat, and was surprisngly good for power moves. I did a gap about 8'3" on it that I haven't made on any long 26" since. It hooked and sidehopped great, only thing it wasn't good for was taps. But unless you want 1070+ with a medium BB height and slack head angle, a 24" is never gonna be great for taps. Not that it matters anyway because bunnyhops pop easier than 26".

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My Rockmans were absolutely appalling! Didn't even last 2 rides before they started to rip and were unusable. Nowhere near dense enough, after an hour they had squished so much where I gripped that they had no cushioning left. Trialtechs on the other hand... a much firmer and denser grip. A very tight fit on my Trialtech bars which means they don't slip, great grips!