Matt Burrows

You will only save 5 grams, maybe less! REALLY not worth the effort.

Did you stress the wheel at all while building it? Is the noise just the spokes settling down because they haven't been stressed?

C) f**k off back to NMC if you want to post shit topics

I bought some of the Tryall cranks a few weeks ago. 7075 is definitely a better material to use for cranks, but is also more expensive. So I was a bit dubious as to whether they really were 7075. I was told they were and thought for £40 you can't really go wrong. Turns out its actually a lie, they are 6061 but Tryall have them stamped to say otherwise! So yeah, they are actually both the same cranks pretty much. The quality of the thread machining on mine is pretty poor though, Trialtechs may be better in that respect.

Yep, that'll be your problem

Yeah I will probably ride Birmingham on Saturday as it looks to be a good ride.

You weren't sure even after every step was explained in the most simple way possible? Next time I won't bother replying with a decent answer and I'll leave it up to one of many inexperienced kids to tell you how to do things incorrectly Why do you need to know where the bearings are if you don't have to touch them? I'll give you a clue, they're not on the outside...

I may well be tempted if the weathers ok!

They are built very well, but are also very light. Personally I consider every single Rockman frame to be a comp frame. If your buying such light components and expecting them to resist months of hard riding you're an idiot. If you're a light and careful rider who looks after his bike, wants the very best performance and is willing to sacrifice some durability then they are perfect. For the majority of riders though I am convinced they are far too light to survive long term.

You've already made a topic about it and have had several answers. Of which the first reply from me explained everything! Grease the threads, fit it, stop spamming the forum with useless posts

Sounds like there is definitely air in the system, give it a bleed and make sure you push the caliper pistons back in.

Trialtech drilled (circle holes, double wall rim) If you get that built by a decent and experienced wheelbuilder it will be great. Very strong and durable rims, and also still plenty light enough for everyday riding.

Clean and grease the threads on the cranks and freewheel. Screw on by hand and be careful not to cross the threads. Then tighten up the final bit either by tool or just refitting the cranks and riding gently until its tight.

No worries mate, glad to help. Hope sometimes charge for repairs, but usually this problem they fix for free even if you have no receipt. Just include a friendly letter explaining what happened and I'm sure they will sort it for you

I should clarify, I got water into mine by falling off the water balance beam at Tarty days 3 times. So the bike was almost submerged, I'm sure riding in the rain won't be a problem. Either way, it is no problem to drip a bit of extra oil in there once a month. A mistake to lube bearings?!? People will often say you shouldn't grease a FW, but even that is misleading. The FW mechanism (ratchet and pawls) will engage quicker when lubed with oil instead of grease. Some freewheels (Tensiles for one) come packed with grease, which can cause them to skip for the first few weeks (Echos don't suffer this problem as apparantly they are lubed with oil from new). Often on Tensile FWs it is advised to flush them through to break down the grease and make them engage quicker. This is where the 'don't grease freewheels' comes from. But it isn't accurate at all, grease or oil is essential for the bearings to run properly, and oil on the ratchet will make it last longer. So either drip through oil until it runs smoother, or strip it, replace and grease the bearings and lube the ratchet with oil.

This has happened to quite a few people. Inside the hub there is a ring of metal teeth called the ratchet. This is fitted into the hub via a screw on thread. You will have stripped that thread, allowing the ratchet ring to spin both ways instead of being solid. Hope will very often repair a hub with this problem for free if you post it off to them. There is one problem though, to fix the hub they will have to replace the hub shell. This is the outside shell of the hub that the spokes attach to. So before you post the hub back, you will need to dismantle the wheel and rebuild it when the hub comes back to you. Hope are very good with this sort of problem and will often send you a repaired hub back within 3 or 4 days. The only real problem is getting the wheel rebuilt, but if your rim is old it may be a good time to get a new rim and pay for a professional wheel build

Yeah I had the same issue after getting water into mine. The sealing is pretty poor on them, but that does mean its easy to lube the bearings. Have you tried relubing it? On mine I flushed out the old lube with some spray degreaser, and then relubed the bearings with some good quality wet chain lube. It helped mine a lot which is now running quiter and smoother. Of course the best option is to strip it and replace the bearings, which can be done but is a bit fiddly.

The ones that were apparantly made from U6, before Deng changed which factory they were manufactured in (around '05-07)? I snapped 5 or 6 sets of older Urbans and Hi-Fi forks, but they always lasted a consistent 6-7 months. I gave up on all Deng forks about 18 months ago after breaking 2 sets of Urbans and one set of Zoo forks within about 4 months. They went at the top of the disc mount (which I had never had issues with before), and all failed within 4-8 weeks. I have since switched to Trialtechs and never looked back! No doubt my front brake is partly to blame (185mm BB7). But on the older forks I had the same brake which worked just as well, and the forks would always snap at the steerer tube with no signs of disc mount cracking. I was also a much less refined rider, I rode more often and I was regularly practicing bunnyhop hooks at high speed. After speaking to numerous other people who had similar problems with them failing, I felt pretty confident at the time to say they had got weaker. I was told Deng had changed which Factory made his forks and they were no longer U6. Of course this is all just my opinion, but I feel the number of forks I snapped and how consistently they failed is a pretty strong sign of a change in design or material (for the worse). Feel free to post experiences suggesting the opposite. I guess it is possible that a change in my technique has led to putting more stress through the disc mount Also I can't say whether they have improved them in the last year or so, maybe the disc mount design has changed.

Old Echo urbans were good forks, way better then the current ones which are weak as. I wouldn't worry about the flex, its not necessarily a bad thing.

In

Mono minis are rubbish for trials, you probably just didn't notice until you started using the Mono trials brake on the other bike!

Yeah it was a good one, cheers guys!

Same

Some awesome riding there. That series of gaps to static hooks on rocks 6' high or more looked bloody hard! Thanks for posting

Fixed tensioners are great, but they don't work so well when you have small gearing. That particular one won't work on a 15 tooth cog, you have to run 16T or more. Obviously as you have a FFW its better just to change to a sprung tensioner.