sstein

standard maggie mounts and the bolts that came with them?

Not to mention that if you could get the spokes through the hub with no bending you would have to bend them to get them between the other spokes and into the right rim hole

I dont know about using the same bolts, if you are saying there is not much of them sticking through the mounts to go into the frame maybe get longer ones. are you using a booster or spacers?

Does Matt ride anymore?

I am down in London, not too far and people come down all the time from essex to ride here

Revell. it rides beautifully for street.

Cams might make it easier, unfortunately I run a bit of a weird system. I run a single tug on the drive side as well as a 74 kingz (my chainstays are too long to begin with, I dont want to have to pull the wheel back really far in the dropout as well) and on the disc side I don't run a tensioner at all, so it is more a system of doing it by eye.

It will work, it is just not ideal as the wheel never seems to be exact which is required for IS mounts, also it means that my mounts need facing. What I tend to notice with most bikes that run hopes on horizontal is that they rub like a bitch (i know people have just not been bothered to set them up properly). I would really just rather not run IS

I cant use a hope because the old ones are IS (I run horizontal dropouts so it is not ideal) and the new ones seem to be pure shite. Anyone tried an SLX for rear?

I struggle to see how cables can affect this. I do not have a problem with power per se, only the power when the brake is cold

They are the same thing.

Running a linear slic already.

I'm running stock with 203mm rotors. I have not tried the cleaning because both the pads and rotors are brand new and have only just been bedded in. As I said the power is fine when it is warm so I dont think it has anything to do with the fact that it is cable. any other ideas

Hey people, need some advice. I am running front and rear bb7s, the front is great and gives me all the power i would want. The rear is crap. It only seems to give me any proper power if the rotor and pads are hot at the time, which means if I stop riding for a minute or more, when I start again I need to ride round with the brake on for a while to warm it up again. It is really getting on my nerves and it means I dont have confidence in my bike (which is brand new). If it continues I may have to braze on a maggie mount which I really CBA with. Anyone have any ideas why it is playing up?

I am looking to try my hand at a bit of basic frame building using steel tubes. Nothing special, just for a bit of a hobby and so I can make custom frames for myself. I have read a lot of stuff on the issue but I seem to be stuck trying to decide what is a better joining method. I hear that fillet brazed frames may actually be stronger (though take longer) than TIG welded frames, if this is the case it will save me a fortune on the equipment. Does anybody with knowledge on the subject think a decent fillet brazed frame would stand up to trials or is TIG the only way to go? Before anyone suggests it I will not use lugs because of the extra cost, time and lack of options. Also I will not only do trials frames but I just want to know if it will stand up to it?

I've used plastics on BMX and MTB street, never for trials. They are grippy enough in the dry (not good in the wet) although not as grippy as a decent set of metals. Also they are easy to snap and the bearings don't last long. As long as you don't ride in wet weather or use your pedals for grip/balance on objects you should be fine but I would recommend a good set of metals instead.

I'm currently running one bike with dual disc and one bike with a rear maggie. The disc on the rear is fun and great for smoother, streetier stuff but is a little underpowerful and does not really inspire confidence when going big or pushing your limits.

I used to run a full half link chain but they have problems that they go very stiff very quickly, however I still run a single half link in my chains and i never have any problems. Just so you are aware though they are significantly weaker than normal chains.

While I do not deny that I am in fact a douchebag, I must say that I never said posts have to be perfect. If someone misspells something or does not use capitals or misses a little punctuation I normally do not care at all. It is when it makes reading posts that much harder that it annoys me.

They must have been near death for a while (i thought my headset bearings were worn out). The final thing was a tiny 180 off a curb on my way home form a ride, the front end just kept going down until I was scraping along on the headset still holding the bars.

I just broke my forks and I need something new. I dont really want to spend too much as I already spend a fortune on bikes. I was using 24/7 holroyds which I have been using for about 2 years now and loved so something similar what suit me. I have been looking at onza tuff guys, what is the general opinion about them? I don't really care about weight much and the type of riding I do is about 99% street (not tgs) also I run disc so and dont want something with v mounts as well (I dont mind maggie mounts cause they are small but would still prefer not to have them). Suggestions? some pics for your amusement:

quite a few london riders and for that matter kent as well. Come on the next london ride, sure you will meet some people

Perhaps run a booster as well to stop another set of forks going

Pig headsets are a nuisance when removing forks take a small flat screw driver and put it in the split ring and knock it around a bit, then hit the steerer tube down with a mallet, once it has moved a bit and their is no compression it is easy to remove

In my opinion you can't beat steel frames for street riding, they feel much nicer and more forgiving as well as being stronger and more reliable.