sstein

Off a very tall building. However if you want to drop safely learn to drop properly.

that is right, the pro 2 bolts are different but the deng ones are not.

phone tarty, I am sure they will be able to sort you out, they are the same as the adamant/czar/echo/etc... hub bolts It is the same make basiclly all deng products.

Didn't mean that one using one half link won't make a difference. What I meant was that using a half link as opposed to all half links doesn't make a difference. The chain is only as strong as the weakest link after all.

That is what I do but it makes no real difference.

Was thinking about this but I really don't recomend it. First of all truing the wheel will be a b*tch as the spokes will not be evenly spaced and you would have to leave a whole after every 8 spokes which would weaken the wheel.

I thought that but I found that there are a couple of good ones. KMC make a really nice strong one that is about £23. Bad news is that the likelihood is you will still need a tensioner.

Tarty do do the deng ones, I have a bought them from there before. Apart from that take it to a bolt factory and they will have loads.

Not really, it will affect the initial speed of the bite, but once the pads are against the rim it will hold just the same (in fact better because it takes longer to move back)

try bleeding them with dot fluid and then say that they will not corrode.

didn't know you could use board games to fix bikes.

It takes a while to be able to bunnyhop long trials bikes, mine are still a bit inconsistent for my likes. Do not change anything, just keep practicing and youwill get it. To practise at first trackstand with the rear brake only on and practice the motion of hopping onto back wheel, then try without the brake on.

Cables - Dry chain lube (or squeeze a small amount of teflon throught the outer using a grease gun, put the innner through, pull out again and wipe off any you can see. Feels lovely) Threads - Copper grease or anti-sieze Everything else - teflon lube maybe litium for bearings but the difference is unnoticeable. P.s. I have never had a problem with degreaser not working on teflon, just spray on, wait for a few secs and then wipe off.

I am more than happy to use water, but the use of anti-freeze is where I am always lost, it is corrosive so I can not be good for the brake.

Don't mind talking to someone who is interested Quick responses for y'all: You've lost your seat - you've lost your bike Why do you have balls in your wheels - they spin better that way (think about it) How long have you been bmxing - about as long as you've known about bikes How much is that bike worth - too much my personal favourite was some chav who asked what I would do if someone stole my bike, I responded with stab them, why? are you going to try it?

agreed. If the bolt is too tight, drill the head off and there should still be enough left of the bolt to remove with a set of pliers.

clean the lube off a chain and leave it in a bucket of water over night and it will be rusted, the water contains enough oxygen to cause the metal to oxidise. The problem with water is that it does not keep the system lubricated like oil, so over time the seals (made of rubber, not metal) can corrode. In my opinion oil is better as the expansion/contraction caused by heat is less noticeable, especially in winter.

yeah I have used one for a while and I am not a smooth rider or a light rider. Hasn't skipped once, engagement is insane, feels nice and runs smooth (even though I run a very tight chain). I'd say go for one, but there are very mixed views on them.

A set of HS33s (or bb7s if intent on discs).

If you are not too sure get a shop to do it. Otherwise take some rachet extender bolt and a hammer and smash that b*tch out, then fit a new one.

James is coming out either xmas eve or boxing day (can't remember what we agreed on probs xmas eve) join us.

why?

Might come but I will be on bmx.

By the sounds of it you didn't push the pistons back before you bled the brake, take off the bleed nipple, push the pistons back in(with the pads out), overbleed the brakes (making sure you get all the bubbles out), loosen one bleed nipple and push the pistons back and wipe up the spillage that comes from around the nipple, close the nipple. I also found that it helps, once the brake is back on the bike to leave the bike upside down overnight with the lever ziptied as far back as it will go without overly forcing it (same power as you would use to stop). In the morning the brake will feel quite nice. P.s. are you sure you do not have the reach adjuster all the way in/out when you bleed the brake.

not really, took me about 3 hours.